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Boat Storage, Full Tank or Empty Tank??

S.D. Ice Angular

By S.D. Ice Angular
in Boats & Motors.

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TR21HP Mentor

TR21HP

Posted
Posted

I've stored them full, half empty and almost empty and as long as you have an adequate amount of stabil in the tank you won't have any problems. There are no pros or cons on either side as long as you have a stabilizer in the tank.

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gunner55 Experienced

gunner55

Posted
Posted

At least 1/2 full of non oxy 91 octane with > 1oz/gal of seafoam in it.We use seafoam in all our gas at the lake.Don't fog it anymore either,just pull the plugs & give it a couple of squirts of WD 40 while turning it over manually.That's how Dad always did it & we've never had a problem.

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WalleyeChaser Rising Star

WalleyeChaser

Posted
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Wherever it ends up at the last trip for the year with stabil added the last fill up. I like to be able to add fresh non-oxy 91+ before the first trip out the following year. I would rather risk a little condensation than have a 32 gallon tank full of fuel the doesn't burn well enough making the motor spit and sputter. I run a fuel water seperator inline and my motor has another one on the fuel module.

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Kyhl Mentor

Kyhl

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It's settled! Just like all forum advice! One guy says full, one guy says empty, one guy says half full. wink

You forgot, it doesn't matter as long as the fuel is treated.

Which is the correct advice, imo.

Between greater than half and a full tank there is effectivly no difference in surface area inside the tank for water to condence on. Even a full tank generally leaves the top of the tank exposed, unless someone fills it up the filler neck.

With the top exposed to air in a full tank, up to 25% of the tank's surface area is still exposed even in a full tank.

Example, the top section of a 20 gallon below deck tank that is 11.75 X 26 X 13.25 leaves 21.4% of the tanks surface area exposed to air.

I treat whatever is left and don't sweat it.

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titelines Experienced

titelines

Posted
Posted

I like mine full so come the Spring, there feels like one less thing to pay for.

Exactly what I do. I have a 23 gallon in-floor tank.

Toss in Sta-bil, fill it to the top (even up the filler neck just a bit), pull the fuel line, start it up and let it run until it dies. Pull the plugs and I'm done and all ready to go for the next year.

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h8go4s Rising Star

h8go4s

Posted
Posted

"You forgot, it doesn't matter as long as the fuel is treated.

Which is the correct advice, imo.

Between greater than half and a full tank there is effectivly no difference in surface area inside the tank for water to condence on. Even a full tank generally leaves the top of the tank exposed, unless someone fills it up the filler neck.

With the top exposed to air in a full tank, up to 25% of the tank's surface area is still exposed even in a full tank.

Example, the top section of a 20 gallon below deck tank that is 11.75 X 26 X 13.25 leaves 21.4% of the tanks surface area exposed to air.

I treat whatever is left and don't sweat it."

And Khyl plays the math card..... eek

I've been trying to ignore this, but I can't help myself.

What really matters is the volume of air space in the tank. In a vented tank, temperature changes cause "breathing" of air in and out of the tank. Humidity condenses out of the air onto the tank surfaces, as frost or water droplets. The less air in the tank, the less condensation. So fill the tank before storage, and use Sta-Bil.

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Finns Mentor

Finns

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I looked at how much water is in air due to humidity. You could probably find the post if you searched. Anyway at winter temps the amount of water vapor in air is very small. Personally I wouldn't worry about it.

Put an open container of stabil or seafoam near the air vent so it will eliminate the moisture before entering the tank? whistle

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Kyhl Mentor

Kyhl

Posted
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I looked at how much water is in air due to humidity. You could probably find the post if you searched. Anyway at winter temps the amount of water vapor in air is very small. Personally I wouldn't worry about it.

I think you did that in last years version of this thread. IIRC it was like a couple of tablespoons of water.

Again, properly treated it shouldn't matter.

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fivebucks Mentor

fivebucks

Posted
Posted

I had to have my motor rebuilt due to water in the gas. I think it was due to bad gas but could have been condensation. Problems started within 30 minutes of getting gas so who knows. Anyhow, how do you start your motor and make sure all the water is out of the tank without having the motor suck up the water?

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