Macgyver55

The back light doesn't work at all, or you can't get it to stay on? Here is what the manual says to adjust settings.

Sorry but that's possibly as dangerous of advice as you could give. You NEVER put in a breaker of higher amperage than the wire on the circuit is rated for. Hopefully you were being facetious?

Beaver Bay sports rents although I've never used them.

Not sure what you mean by "tired" but if it is moving slowly, have you disconnected it and made sure the regulator arms and pivots are moving freely?

Or return the crappy machine for one that doesn't eat batteries! Not always like that where I ride leech! Last year on our annual spring ride we rode 5 days and 320+ miles and never saw another wheeler. Just my personal experience, but Yuasa has delivered far from "crappy"performance for me! I have had 13 different ATVs, all had Yuasa batteries and I've never had one let me down on the trail. Most lasted the life of the wheeler (while I owned it), and most were also used for winching and plowing. The worst things for a battery are heat, vibration and lack of use. If a new wheeler is having problems with a battery that soon when it is being used.......my experience tells me either the machine is defective or the battery is! Even an overpriced, new, super heavy duty, best ever, battery won't solve a problem if the battery isn't the problem. Throwing a new battery in a machine that could potentially have an electrical problem is just setting you up to have another bad day! If you still have warranty, by all means have it checked out! Either way they should eat the cost, not you. At least you won't be left wondering if the battery was the issue or not.....

Does the truck smoke when you start it or does it smoke when you step on it hard?

It's your choice, I'm only trying to save you some time and money. What I think you are not understanding is that this is a standardized plug that is used on many light applications and will fit yours. It is actually the recommended plug more so than two single ones and is more corrosion resistant. But again, it's your choice so whatever you decide is great!

The connector I posted is most definitely the right one. (for that style light) I've installed dozens of them. Pretty sure Fleet farm has them too. If you are in the metro area and willing to pick it up I will be glad to give it to you! It would be far less work and cost to replace one pigtail than a whole harness.

Should look like this I believe. Very common connector.... I think Northern has them!

I suppose there was not even a little bit sticking out from the surface of the head! Removed plenty of them by putting a nut over the stud and tack welding it on when they had something sticking out of the head. That one looks nasty! I'm definitely not jealous!

Sounds like you still have air in the system, did you bleed the system properly with the bleeder screw on the coolant line (or thermostat housing)?

The cover just snaps off in 2 seconds and the primer is not really needed very often?

If you remove the left (if I remember correctly) side cover and look at the bottom of the carburetor you should see the black knob (see photo) . Pull then push the primer several times and it should start much, much better in the cold and /or even if it has just been sitting for an extended time, You may have a problem with it being stuck or seized up if it has never been used, but it is available separately and easy to install. Give it a try!

Box, do you have problems even after using the primer on the carburetor?

My guess is there is a worn bore in the valve body. I actually had this similar problem on my wife's car. (06 Impala) When taking off from a stop it would try to go slowly then would lunge forward as if someone rear ended you. Was very erratic and unpredictable but grew worse with time. Luckily for me (readily admit I'm no transmission guy). I have a neighbor who is a transmission specialist who called it right from the start and said it's quite common on this particular transmission. It never set a code on our car either. The valve body was removed and the bore was drilled and sleeved and worked perfectly afterwards.