Run Gas Out Every Time?

[UMC]

A friend of mine was telling me that he knew a guy who would unhook his fuel line and run his motor till it died every time he pulled out of the water. For a guy like me who only uses his boat once every week or two in the fall, would this be a decent idea or is it not needed if you stabilize the gas?

[harvey lee]

I use stabilizer in my gas year round. My boat rarely sets for more than 5 days without seeing water. Although I did not use it but once in August and the gas was fine.

I would not worry about it at all with stabilizer in the fuel.

I have never had any issues. My outboard is FI but I would think that one with a carb would do just fine iff that is what you have.

[SkunkedAgain]

I've done two things in the past five years that seem to be making a difference for me. One is that I run non-oxy fuel in my toys. My big motor requires it but the rest sit for so long that I don't like keeping the corn fuel sitting around, therefore it gets non-oxy. I also stopped running the gas out of my motors for winter storage. Now I top them off with non-oxy mixed with fuel stabilizer.

I used to have carb issues with my snowmobile, older boat motors, and chainsaws. I haven't had one since I made the changes. It could all be coincidence but I made those changes based on information that I gathered online over time.

[delmuts]

As long as you have stabilizer in the fuel this isn't neccessary. My boat sits all winter with no problems in the spring.

[BobT]

I don't think it really matters whether you use stabilizer, non-oxy fuel, or let it sit for weeks or months. I haven't used stabilizer in any of my equipment including fuel I've mixed for my chainsaw in an old plastic bottle and let set for multiple years. Lawn mower, riding lawn mower, ATV, outboard, weed whacker, garden tiller, chainsaw, ice drill, and tractors all get 87 octane with no fuel stabilizer additives. Once a year I run carburater/injector cleaners in the fuel and that's it. Been doing it this way all my life and I'm 52.

[amateurfishing]

from what i've heard, you can do all the above or nothing at all. My mechanic highly suggested non oxy fuel, so i do that with stabilizer and keep tank as is. You dont have to do anything but for each step you take to winterize/store, that is 1 less chance of a problem in the spring. I have always run my lawn mower/snoblower dry with stabilizer and they always start up on first pull the next season. but i have also heard if u run it dry, rings, washers, etc., can dry out giving you leaking problems for the next season, just tuned up ice auger and they said exact same thing bout seals, etc. honestly, not sure it matters, but whatever helps u sleep at nite.

[Sonicrunch]

I would actually worry about empty carbs. That would invite corrosion and/or drying of gaskets.

[bobbymalone]

I pull the gas line and run my dry before it goes into storage for the winter.

My concern was that gas evaps and you get a oily residue in the carbs.

[reinhard1]

i use nothing but pure oxy free premium in my 115 Merc 4 stroke. i put sea foam in my gas and run it for 10 minutes and leave it as is. i do change the lower unit grease, but dont change oil till spring. haven't had any problems. good luck.

[Surface Tension]

Non oxy with fuel stabilizer during storage.

If you have a oil injected then running dry is fine.

If your mixing your fuel then I wouldn't run the carb dry.

Reason being your burning off the lubrication in the crank and cylinder walls when you run it dry.

Reason for the not storing with oxygenated gas is shelf life and its tendency to absorb moister from the atmosphere.

If you have an on board fuel tank it is vented and open to the atmosphere.

Both type fuels will break down and why I use a fuel stabilizer.

I like starting any engine every so often when they're in storage so the crank, cylinder walls, and bearing get coated with oil.

Outboards we can't start them during storage so I fog mine.

An engine with a dirty carbs will run lean and you can't always tell.

During storage lack of lube in the crank will cause corrosion and bearings becoming pitted.

As engines become more fuel efficient they consume less fuel and oil then the old engines form yesteryear.

That old gas hog mixed at 20/1 gas to oil ratio is going to survive some neglect coming out of long term storage better then and gas sipping engine mixed at 100/1.

Point is a little precaution at time of storage reduces the chance of a dirty carb and pitting.

[BoxMN]

I now use non-oxy in all my small engines and outboards (the 150efi gets corn gas now and then though, but it goes through it quick )

and I have found them all to be running better, especially the ones that don't get used as much. I had trouble with my pontoon a few years ago (after not using it for several weeks, sitting on the lake in the sun) and when I emptied the tank and put in fresh gas, it was like a new motor.

The sleds have started and run great, and the chainsaws/blower/mowers/etc. all get non-oxy, with always just a touch of seafoam in each tank, and start a TON better. I do as reinhard does, and it works fine for us. Good luck.

[bobbymalone]

If your mixing your fuel then I wouldn't run the carb dry.

Reason being your burning off the lubrication in the crank and cylinder walls when you run it dry.

does fogging it solve that problem?

[Surface Tension]

Fogging through the carb or port till the engine quits is best. That way your getting the fogging agent into the crank.

I guess you can spray and crank while you have the water hooked up when you run the carb dry..

You can pull the plugs and get the cylinders, its not as good but the cylinders are coated..

[CAMAN]

Running a motor dry of fuel is probably the worse thing you can do to a two-stroke motor. Think about it this way, where does the motor get all its lubrication from? The oil in the gas. When you run a motor dry of fuel, you are also running it dry of oil, and those strokes it's making while coming to a stop are with low or no lubrication. It's not going to do much harm if you accidentally run out of gas once or twice, but if EVERY time you use it then run the motor dry those un-lubricated strokes add up and one day the motor could seize up.

[Matt C]

I run a few cans of PBR through the tank before winter in my big motor...

Kidding aside, for my 200 HPDI, I use sea-foam year round, and give an extra 'dose' at storage time, and run the muffs for 15 min or so; drain and refill the lower unit, and I have never had an issue.

In my past motor, a 150 4stroke, same thing. The run like champs.

Peoples opinions will vary all over the board. i.e..I just bought a 2012 Toro 2-stage snow thrower the other day, the dealer said, make sure you run it dry, and use only 'fresh' gas in it if it sits for more than 30 days....however the manual says, use a gas stabilizer. <<eye roll>>.

[Sonicrunch]

Running a motor dry of fuel is probably the worse thing you can do to a two-stroke motor. Think about it this way, where does the motor get all its lubrication from? The oil in the gas. When you run a motor dry of fuel, you are also running it dry of oil, and those strokes it's making while coming to a stop are with low or no lubrication. It's not going to do much harm if you accidentally run out of gas once or twice, but if EVERY time you use it then run the motor dry those un-lubricated strokes add up and one day the motor could seize up.

There is plenty of oil that remains. The oil gumms up and sticks to everything. It does not pass thru as fast as you think it does.

[delcecchi]

I have a neighbor that has a 70 suzuki 4stroke on his pontoon. He used to leave it full in the fall "to minimize condensation" as we have all been told. (pretty sure he burns non-oxy premium boat gas)

His motor ran like carp every spring until he put new gas in. Now he leaves the tank almost empty.

I used to leave my tank full. Then, pretty much out of the blue, the mechanic at the dealer said "don't worry about it. fill it up in the spring"

Got a new 4stroke last year. We shall see what happens this spring.

[JosMN]

Running a motor dry of fuel is probably the worse thing you can do to a two-stroke motor. Think about it this way, where does the motor get all its lubrication from? The oil in the gas. When you run a motor dry of fuel, you are also running it dry of oil, and those strokes it's making while coming to a stop are with low or no lubrication. It's not going to do much harm if you accidentally run out of gas once or twice, but if EVERY time you use it then run the motor dry those un-lubricated strokes add up and one day the motor could seize up.

I have done this with every two stroke that I have ever owned, sleds, outboards, mowers, you name it. Run it dry, take plugs out and spray a hefty amount of fogging oil down the cylinders, put the plugs back in. Always have run like a top when bringing them out of storage.

[CAMAN]

There is plenty of oil that remains. The oil gumms up and sticks to everything. It does not pass thru as fast as you think it does.

Okay, I apologize but I misspoke. Talked to my mechanic buddy today who told me about it a few years ago and I misunderstood him. The low oil isn't the issue, it's the top cylinder running out of fuel first and going into a lean condition which could burn up the piston, etc.

You can argue you've been doing it for years and never damaged the motor, and like i said once a year isn't going to kill a motor, it's the after every use thing that would worry me. But there is proof that this does damage a motor. Do it or not, I don't care, I'm just passing some info along for others.

[Capt. H (Ret.)]

The Merc dealer where I bought two new carbed motors recommended pulling the fuel line and running them dry after each use unless I was using going to use them the next day. 1990 90 HP and a 2000 115 HP. Went to a fuel injected Opti-Max model a few years ago and you can't unhook the fuel line. That motor barely turns over before it starts and there is no choke built into the key.

[boatfixer]

I chose to not run them dry when i winterize. I use the suggested amount of fuel stabilizer (depending on manufacture, but Blue Stabil almost exclusivly) and see the same customers every year and things work out just fine. The key is to run it long enough to get it through the entire system. I also have most of my people running Stabil year round now and some even up the dose for storage near the end of the season, simply for the reason that absolutley without a doubt, we both know the entire system is treated.

[Esox_Magnum]

My buddy and I differ on how we winterize, he's the guy running his dry and fogging, I'm the stabil and park it at the end of the season guy. Mines always started every spring, his go to the shop every spring. Mine have always been the older vintage than his, our current rigs are 14 years apart in age, my Merc has never failed, his Merc you cross your fingers and hope it starts... I do the same with all my other equipment ( augers, snowblower, sleds ect only difference is they get started once a month)

[BobT]

As I have already indicated, I never do anything and after nearly 40 years of doing my own maintenance, that has worked out pretty well. Actually, near perfectly for me. However, this is my first year with a new E-tec fuel-injected outboard. I suspect injectors may prove to be a bit more finicky than carburetors. After reading this thread and others as well as the owner's manual I'm thinking it might be good to at least make a small investment and add a stabilizer to the fuel. Better safe than sorry.

[BobT]

Now this is interesting. According to my new E-tec manual, the only fuel stabilizer I can use without voiding my warranty is 2+4 Fuel Conditioner from BRP. Check out the information I've quoted below from MLR Solutions - Fuel Testers. If I understand this correctly, adding 2+4 is really increasing my alcohol blend to higher than 10%. What are your thoughts?

Quote:

Evinrude BRP/OMC 2+4 Fuel Conditioner contains 95% alcohol. MSDS includes information supporting product is not appropriate for use in alcohol blends of fuel, E10. For example MSDS states, “soluble in water”…”Incompatibility (Material to Avoid) Strong Oxidizing agents…”, etc. Fuel-Testers Note: Ethanol is a “strong oxidizing agent” used to oxygenate gasoline. 2+4 is manufactured by Gold Eagle Co.

What's really strange about this is that Evinrude does not recommend using alcohol blended fuels higher than 10%. By adding 2+4 I would be doing exactly what they tell me not to do. I'm confused.

[BobT]

Now I'm not sure about this. I found the MSDS for 2+4. The primary ingredient is Isopropanol. I looked up what this was and it appears that the information from MLR Solutions may be misleading. Isopropanol is a type of alcohol but has a different chemical make-up than ethanol and one of its primary uses is as a fuel conditioner.