BobT

I regret that I will not be able to attend. I have an appointment with my tax accountant. I look forward to hearing about the results.

Here's one we tried. Place walleye fillets on bottom of baking dish. Layer on sliced onions and then brush on Catalina salad dressing. Repeat for another layer. I don't recall but I'm betting we baked it at about 350 until flaky.

Oh yes, I was thinking 120vac. Sorry.

I've been using braided for years on spinning reels and have never had any issues with twisting. In fact, I prefer braids partly because I don't have line memory or twisting issues. I've used Fireline, Nanofil, and PowerPro in 8# and 10# and neither of them gave me any issues.

Ditto on the double uni knot for tying flourocarbon or monofilament leaders on braided line. I find that the knot will work better if I make more twists on the thinner line. For example, when I tie my double uni I'll make about a half dozen twists on the leader, I use flouro, but about 10 twists on the braid. I find that when I get snags the line will break at the hook more often than the double uni this way so I don't have to replace the leader as often. I personally don't like to use snaps or swivels when jigging. I believe they take away some of the sensitivity.

If all you're running are lights and the furnace, a 15A circuit would be more than adequate, which would be 14ga. The wire lengths involved are minimal so voltage drop should not be a concern.

For jigging my favorite is a 6'-6" medium rod with fast or ultra fast tip. My primary go-to rod is a Fenwick Elite Tech with ultra fast tip with a Pflueger Supreme 25x reel. This setup works when the walleyes aren't too finicky or they are biting super soft. When I want to present the jig with a little more finesse, I got to my St. Croix Eyecon with fast tip and again the Pflueger Supreme 25x reel. The Pflueger Supreme 25x is a smaller reel but I find it balances the rods real nice.

You do realize it is rude to do this before sending out the invitations, right?

I am a strong maybe. I have been on Traverse a couple times for the spring opener but I've never fished Big Stone so it would be interesting.

The block walls will not be covered. Only that part above the blocks will have a finished interior wall.

Yes, it has been insulated.

I think part of his thought process is that the building is built into the side of a hill so the bottom seven feet or so is block walls so running the wiring in conduit would be about the only alternative for his receptacles and other outlets at accessible heights.

I don't think it would be good to leave the wiring exposed and that's why I suggested the conduit. Yes, we need to study the implications of using conduit. It should be noted that he has already begun installing the wall and ceiling steel. I told him he would need to calculate the appropriate lumens for lighting, provide branch circuits for 120v receptacles, 240v receptacles for welder, ceiling fans, any heating systems he plans to install (he's designing it for in-floor heat), and proper outdoor lighting at entrances.

Yes, my neighbor wants to surface wire the interior. I had already suggested completing the electrical work before finishing the interior. I'm not aware of any code that would forbid this option and if I understand the 2020 NEC code correctly, EMT or PVC would be acceptable. There is very little that I can find regarding residential detached garages. Article 511 covers commercial garages, but this is not a commercial garage. He wants to do this himself, which is okay as long as he gets it inspected properly.

That's where I was headed. Thanks.