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BoxMN last won the day on October 20 2016

BoxMN had the most liked content!

About BoxMN

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  • Birthday 05/15/1967

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    WBL, MN & Crosslake weekender

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  1. I just put these on my 98 k1500 and hope for similar results! Shop said lots of plow trucks love them in winter and affordable. I think my 265/75/16's were $660 out the door at a shop near me. Discount was slightly cheaper but I wanted to go with neighborhood shop. Discount Tire guy said unless I wanted to really jump to over $200 a tire, these would perform as good or better than any close to the price. FWIW.... Last set were an off brand MultiMile AT and there were great tires. Got over 75k on them and traction was great.
  2. Hey Mac, after this cold winter I just wanted to say thanks again for some great advice! Even in the minus teens and 20's, I gotta say that with the primer this Foreman starts as good as a fuel injected atv! No chit! I can't believe I didn't know this earlier. And I don't have to take the cover off, it is pretty easy reach in there, and two-three pumps and it starts on first turn of the key every time Glad your first atv is going well for you AlwaysFishing!
  3. I know this is late, I just logged on for first time in a long time. The nut should be loose. Hope you found the fix.
  4. Thanks guys, appreciate the info!
  5. A stone mason Buddy is looking at a 6x6 for work, for stone work in new home construction area with lots of dirt/mud/etc. Hauls lots of stone mainly, but also just about anything. Uses a golf cart now (works awesome, actually!) but it won't cut it on the terrain of the new project. The homes are BIG (>25k sq ft.....) so the golf cart/utv will save time and laborers backs, and pay for itself. Looked at the Gator as well, but on paper it just doesn't stack up to the Ranger. He is thinking of putting a custom bed on it. Just wondering if anybody has experience with the 6x6 800, and know of any particular issues this unit or the engine have. Good thing is it just may double as a hunting tool for us during duck season Thanks for any info, and also for any recommendations on good dealers in the metro area, or even just outside of metro. Tousley is very near to us, but I have only bought parts from them, not bikes.
  6. Honestly, I didn't care about the economics when we did it. I stood on a heated concrete floor in the winter at a buddies, and said "We are doing that!!!!" So we did. The added cost for the boiler, tube, antifreeze, electrical, insulation, and all installation was under 5k when added together. The furnace is a furnace, you need one anyway, so no additional cost there. Not sure how much I "save" in a year due to the floor, but the walkout basement is a WARM and pleasure to walk on even in December through March and everybody remarks how nice it is. Also, my largest gas bill ever has been about $70 and that was a frigid month in a frigid year, and includes using the gas fireplace a lot in the winter. Usually it is much less, and only service charge for half the year. Between electric and gas, I would average it at about $120 a month, that includes A/C in summer. We use the cabin about 3 days a week on average, so not full time. Maybe the reduced usage will make the furnace last longer, who knows... Best bang for buck is a barrel stove, but I save my wood for campfires, and like the "flip the switch" warmth so I can fish more
  7. So I think I read through all posts, hopefully not re-writing what others have said here... Also not sure how much you want to spend on everything... Here is what we have - forced gas furnace and gas fireplace, and dual-fuel electric boiler for in floor (in walkout basement). We leave boiler at about 55, and furnace at 54, and fireplace off when we are gone. If people are up we turn basement up to 66ish and the basement is warm within a few hours. (1200 foot footprint) We turn on furnace to 68 and also the fireplace and it gets to that in under an hour. Then we turn the furnace down to sleeping temps of 63 and pretty much just use the fireplace after that, as even on low it pretty much heats the upstairs to the 70s and we need to turn it off. The basement heat comes up (if we have it raised to 60's) and keeps the upstairs warm so the furnace just doesn't come on except those really cold days. (I don't think I would rely on just the infloor heat for reasons mentioned above, but it doesn't really take too long to heat up at least the lower level.) Anyway, the infloor is very nice, and cheap to run and keeps your gas bill down. You can always grind some grout lines for cool pattern in slab and stain the concrete, it looks cool, fairly easy to do, and cheap floor "covering" that lets the heat through easy. But at 3-4k for a fireplace, 3-4k for a boiler, and the cost of a forced air furnace, it might be just easier, and definitely cheaper, to use just a forced air furnace and call it a day (Oh yeah, the gas fireplace always has the pilot light on, so even when power is out we still can have the heat of the fireplace, which is nice.)
  8. I know people will say if it is done right, pavers will NOT sink... but I have yet to see a paver driveway that does not have sunken tire ruts, if even just a little bit. We had one as a kid, using big old granite pavers that came from downtown St. Paul streets, and I hated that darned driveway when it came to shoveling time...
  9. I am no expert, but I am guessing that you will be advised to put some insulation under it, and if you don't have insulation under the slab now, that may be an issue. I would also think that it would be better to keep your foundation/slab one piece for all. But again, i am not an expert in the least! We do have infloor heating in our cabin slab and it is very nice, and the off-peak/dual-fuel electric pricing makes it nice and affordable heat. Very nice on the feet in winter, and keeps the gas bill very low. If you don't have off-peak/dual-fuel pricing then the electric may get very very expensive to run, especially without proper insulation missing from part of it. Good luck.
  10. I got an electronic sliding deadbolt on the garage and the house. It is the BEST THING EVER!!!! just push in 4 number and it opens up without any other input. To lock, you just push one button. I think maybe Quickset brand or something like that. I liekd it more than Schlage model. My Mom had one that you put in the 4 digit combo and then have to turn a knob. Still nice, but the auto one is awesome. It beeps for unsuccessful, and it willgive a red (rather than green) light and also a beepbeepbeep when the batteries get low. Pretty easy and forgiving to let you know when to change them. I have not had them go totally out on me yet in about 5 years or more, but I change them usually after about a week of beepbeepbeeping I would guess I change them 1-2 times a year, more in the garage as it gets locked and unlocked more. Seriously, best thing ever. I never carry keys anymore, never. I leave keys right in the vehicles in the garage, dont' bother bringing them into the house anymore. At the cabin I leave keys right in vehicles as well.
  11. That's because you can go through 3 countries before you need a Diet Coke or to pee
  12. Adding foundation.... wont let me edit anymore... block foundation was 21,510 (original estimate was 16,000... it was a bit funky shaped footings and foundation as it wasn't plain old rectangle with added garage, and due to grade the east/lake side was mostly framed and east/north/south combo block framed) drain tile was 650 Whoops sorry, you wanted other items here goes a few more: plumbing 7900 (one full bath, one mudroom/laundry, one kitchen, stub in basement bath, two outside spigots only) framing labor 12,000 heating cooling 9200 electric 9100 lumber 35,500 (we used "freespan" trusses, which made my current finishing of the basement a piece of cake!) entry doors windows 6500 insulation 2300 waterproofing 800 landscaping 5500 fireplace and finish 3200 Anyway, not sure if I got screwed or got a deal, but everything was done very nicely and we have not had any problems since, and we are happy and Tim still has used our place as a reference for a few potential homeowner clients. Our goal was to build with quality but not high end, and make the most/best use of the space we could afford (hence only one bathroom on main floor, and now I put another in basement). Hope this helps some!
  13. Here's quick numbers from my '08 build (when the price of oil was very high, and that did affect my price up by several thousand $$ due to excavating cost, siding and roofing - also we hit more rock than expected and that added some to that cost). 1220' house, 2 BR and one bath on main floor, unfinished walkout basement with wirsbo in basement (not including the duel fuel electric boiler which I put in later for $2900), high eff gas furnace, central A/C, gas fireplace with fake fieldstone and cedar mantle, pine ceiling with moderate vault, laminate floor in most, but carpet in two bedrooms and vinyl in bathroom and mudroom, new septic (not mound), well (near lake so needed an added $600 pumper collection truck), Marvin Integrity windows (10 windows of various sizes and two patio doors), hickory kitchen custom cabinets (but not a lot of them) "good" .046 vinyl siding with a few gables having vinyl shake siding, 12x24 cedar deck with 12x12 of it under a gable end porch roof, some landscaping with the boulders that were dug up, and a decent amount of fill brought in, and a 28x28 with 10' walls attached garage, good/quiet chamberlain garage door opener installed , and a 40 step staircase to the lake, general contractor fee included. All new appliances as well, but I shopped and found deals on those, decent but not high end. Total cost for turn key ready was $175k. Add the boiler and it was $178k and change without me doing anything. Once we agreed on plans we didn't have any changes other than a 18'x8' insulated door instead of 16x8. It went very smooth for us and contractor, he was good and we didn't get in the way. If you are interested in numbers that are that old, PM me and I can share specific costs and some pics. I am now finishing basement myself and it is turning out great. I built my own 28x36 garage, but I am not good enough or know enough to be contractor for a full house. I think his fee was $25,000, but only charged us $20,000 (included in the above cost) to help keep his 175k estimate accurate with actuals, plus we were good homeowners with no hassle to him Ha, those are some run on sentences Good luck! edit: permit was 1150 excavation was 6500 septic was 7000 well was 5000 (I think it was 67') drain tile was 650 Have more if you want, but can pm or email them.
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