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we are 'the leading edge' I Share on HSO
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    Sr HSO Family
  • Birthday 02/13/1983

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    Savage, MN
  1. Yes they work great. They tend to make a little mess. So if you're doing any overhead work with it make sure you get a Tyvek suit with hood and wear safety glasses. If you get any on you or anywhere you don't want it, let it fully cure before you scrape it off. Prepare the area before hand with drop cloths, because once you start you can't stop for more than 30 seconds unless you have spare nozzles on hand.
  2. Here is a thread of a few guys that have had it installed for over a year in their daily driver garage. The OP is from Wisconsin and the floor looks like new. Others are from Kansas, New York, and Virginia. The nice thing about VCT is most of the time the wax or sealer takes the brunt of the damage. If and when it gets damaged by gas or oil you are able to take wax stripper clean it off to bare tile and recoat. Most of the time a small spill will wipe right up as long as it doesn't sit too long. If the damage is bad enough or all the way to the tile just chisel up the damaged tile and replace. Don't get me wrong, VCT is NOT for the "set it and forget it" type person, but it isn't a constant hastle either, regular cleaning, and occasional waxing or sealing when needed if you'd like to keep it shiny. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234997
  3. Just g00gle "VCT Garage" and you will find hundreds if not thousands of users of VCT in garages. Also many people on GarageJournal have done it with high success as well. No idea why they wouldn't want you to use it in a porch, (possibly the substrate?), but over concrete, with the correct prep, adhesive, sealant, and cure time, it's very little risk. I have read to use only Armstrong tiles, adhesive, and sealant, and stay away from the other brands found in big box stores.
  4. I'm moving into a new (to me) home in a few weeks and have been planning my garage lately. I have pretty much narrowed it down to Armstrong VCT(vinyl composition tile). Main reason is cost (less than $1 per sq foot complete), durability(used in many commercial/industrial buildings), and I don't have to hire anyone. The one issue I have is upkeep, it needs to be waxed/coated regularly, though a good thorough cleaning and coating once a year doesn't scare me. I was a large advocate for epoxy garage floors until I found out two different people I know had their floors done by two separate contractors and both have large sections of the floor that remained tacky even years afterwards. Both contacted the installer and both claim "we've never seen that before", come out, look at it, try a couple things, then leave and say "we'll look into it" then stop all contact. Also I realized the colors and "designs" you can get from epoxy just doesn't appeal to me anymore.
  5. Most sold at big box stores are adjustable between 2 3/8 and 2 3/4
  6. I think this means you get a new boat!
  7. Yes, but more than likely he is grandfathered in to the old laws. You are only required to update to hardwired if you are renovating. Sorry, can't help with the smoke detector, but in my opinion you probably can't go wrong with any of the big brands like Kidde and First Alert. Here is a Consumer Reports article on which is best for you. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/co-and-smoke-alarms/buying-guide.htm
  8. Unless the tree roots are coming from the bottom of the pipe or you can somehow get it to the upper half of the pipe where they usually come in, roots will still form until they reach the water level AND you flush it with copper sulfate. And by then it is getting too late. The only real way to keep from calling roto rooter is to fix the problem. Either cutting down the tree, or fix the pipe.
  9. What you are describing sounds like Pex-AL. Fittings are special order at Menards. Probably easiest to order what you need online.
  10. Latex being water based is (for the most part) safe in an enclosed area, oil based is what can be dangerous. But obviously any ventilation you can get won't hurt. And either option will work, just the dehumidifier is the more expensive option and will probably pull more moisture from the air.
  11. Google "mold abatement paint" or "mold remediation paint". Just an FYI, well trained home inspectors don't like seeing painted joists/studs/sheathing and will usually investigate further as to why it was painted. In case you decide to sell. You also may want to look into getting some fresh air down there or even a very large dehumidifier. Installing some vents into the return and outgoing air on the furnace would help as well.
  12. If you use the foam against the wall your going to want to use that as your vapor barrier. Tape all the seams and use acoustical sealant or spray foam around the edges and protrusions. I don't think you'll notice a big enough difference if you add fiberglass to that. Though I would add it as a sound barrier in the ceiling if you like.
  13. Nothing you can really do right now except for stopping them from turning, but those turbines are probably what is causing your problem. They should not be used with other styles of roof vents, except for soffit vents. If you mix turbine and gravity vents the turbines will pull air from the path of least resistance and that is usually the roof vents nearby. If that happens the only areas in the attic that get vented are around the turbines, and the rest of the attic air remains. For now I would climb up into the attic and stop the turbines from spinning. In the spring I would pull the turbines and replace them with standard vents.
  14. I'll admit I haven't looked for it, but is home heating oil available at gas stations in MN? I don't ever recall seeing it.
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