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Whats that? (Answers Posted)

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A conversation with a customer last night which started with "this is what you need" followed with his reply of "whats that" sparked the idea for this post. Maybe once a week or so I thought I would post 5 different parts found on vehicles that get replaced with at least some frequency. The thought was to get people more familiar with what the service guys are talking about. This week I picked 5 pretty easy ones to get the ball rolling. Shackbash and 4wanderingeyes have to tell me the make, model, and year these parts fit! grin.gif

What are these parts?

Part A


Part B


Part C


Part D


Part E


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Great idea! I will be the (about) first one, and I am for sure no mechanic, as you will see.

A - some type of vaccuum valve?... no idea, but I know where sit sits.

B - o2 sensor

C- Looks like (head)light bulb conncetion?...

D - not sure, fuel injector?...

E - part from tranny?...

Ha! this will certainly help me learn! Thanks, great idea!

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1) Kenuter valve (sp) or power brake booster?

2) Electronic throttle return plunger or O2 sensor?

3) Blinker fluid level indicator (left side) or MAF?

4) Washer fluid squirter or fuel injector?

5) Muffler bearing support shaft or distributer shaft?

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airjer, work a little slow for ya? Good game though, keep it up! I will let shack give the years! lol I had the names up there, but I figured I would pull them off for others to play.

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So when you do post the answers to the pictures i would love to have an explanation of how and why these parts fail. for example broken wire, plugged jet, broken shaft, worn out shaft, bad design, abusive driving habits, etc.

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My turn:

1- EGR valve removed from a Ford (it's got to be a Ford)

2- O2 sensor (there's no more O2 in town, so we don't need a sensor)

3- Crankshaft sensor from a Yugo ( did they have a crankshaft or just pedals ?)

4- Injector from a Duramax (they are plastic, the disposable kind every 1000 miles)

5- Broken distributor shaft, LMITOUT has it right definitely from a Toy (ota)

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That was kind of fun! Here are the answers. I'll get another one going for next week. Requests and questions are welcome!!

Part A is an EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). This particular one fits 97-99 Ford F-150’sw with a 4.2 liter Engine. The EGR valve is responsible for lowering nitrogen oxide emissions (it’s been a while but I think its NOX7 specifically) and reducing ping because it helps to lower combustion chamber temps. The EGR is usually only active during acceleration and a steady cruise. To common symptoms of an EGR stuck or held open is poor to no idle, runs really rough at idle, and a really hard brake pedal. Common symptoms of an EGR that won’t open or totally blocked EGR passages would be a check engine light.

Part B is an oxygen sensor and more specifically a heated oxygen sensor. This one could be found in any V-6 or V-8 GM produced after 1996 (the first year of mandatory OBDII). The oxygen sensor basically measures the oxygen content of the exhaust gases and sends a signal to the computer. The heater allows the O2 to get to its operating temperature faster. Rarely will O2 sensors cause a drivability symptom other than a check engine light.

Part C is a cam sensor. This one is for a 95 Dodge intrepid with a 3.5 liter. Its primary function as its name implies is to reference the camshafts position. This allows for a more accurate fuel control, spark timing, and in some cases faster start up. A bad cam sensor can cause a loss of injector pulse, loss of spark or in some cases the vehicle will start and run in a limp mode but will have a noticeable different running characteristic.

Part D is a fuel injector out of a early 90’s GM 3.8 liter. Its function is to supply fuel to the engine. Depending on the motor there could be one, two, four, six, eight, and so on. If a single injector setup fails (early four cylinders) the vehicle will not start. If the vehicle has one injector per cylinder and one injector fails the vehicle could either stall, early GM fuel injected 2.8 and 3.1 hot soak stall was common. One injector would go bad causing the whole bank to shut down. Or the vehicle could develop a misfire. No fuel to a cylinder and it will not work.

Part E is the trick question. This part is an oil pump drive for GM 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 SOHC and 3.4 DOHC, NOT A BROKEN TUNDRA CAMSHAFT! grin.gif Although few of these ever where replaced if you look carefully towards the top you will see an o-ring. This is the culprit for many oil leaks on these engines. Every intake gasket I do (just did one last night) gets this oring replaced as part of the service. Partly because the shaft is located under the throttle body (3.4 DOHC its under the rear cylinder head, yes the head has to come off to replace the o-ring) once the intake is removed it is right there. We only charge for the o-ring since it takes about 30 seconds to change as part of the service. If you have ever owned a vehicle with one of these engines and you had oil dripping off of the transmission side of the motor more than likely this was the problem.

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 Originally Posted By: airjer
If you have ever owned a vehicle with one of these engines and you had oil dripping off of the transmission side of the motor more than likely this was the problem.

I've got a problem with that right now \:\)

Airjer, this is a cool idea. I hope you keep posting things like this periodically!

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Good thing my was covered under warranty! I was wondering why my engine light would just come on, right after I got an oil change from the dealer.

I think my steering may need some work, or maybe I simply just need to add some more power steering fluid.

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