Jeremy airjer W

The ford diagnostic tool... whack the blower with the handle end of a screwdriver with the blower speed set to high, and the key on. If the blower starts working replace it. If it still doesn't work check power and ground. One of the two is missing or you didn't whack it hard enough. Also these are notorious for burning up connections at the blower resistor/module. A good visual inspection will confirm that possibility.

Does it turn on at all? What happens if you give it a good whack?

Swap the tires side to side, of course.

Put your fuel gauge on in the night before. Then check your fuel pressure in the morning when you try to start it. I suspect that your fuel pressure is a tad to low to get the mechanical poppets to open. As little as 1 psi below the minimum is enough to cause a no start. Also when it does not start try adding a couple of quick shots of carb spray into the throttle body. It it pops off and continues to run you just verified it is a fuel issue.

You would be amazed at how many of these I uninstall to get customers back on the road. You would also be amazed at the number of calls I get where the aftermarket alarm/remote starts have left people stranded.

That would be a lot of work to keep track of qualifying, finishing, and to put together all the numbers yourself.

uninstall it before it leaves you stranded.

The "gasket" is not the problem. The EGR has a tube that runs into the plastic intake right behind the throttle body. Over time the heat from the EGR degrades the plastic of the upper intake manifold. The plastic eventually gives way and the cooling port that surrounds the EGR tube fills the engine with coolant essentially hydrolocking it. Most times a new intake plenum, and a set of spark plugs along with a new starter is all that is needed to make the repair after all the coolant is removed from one or more cylinders. I have not had one come into the shop with this problem in wuite a few years mostly because they have all been replaced with the updated plenum and EGR port.

most often the metal stem and nut are so corroded that they will break when you try to remove it. If you are lucky enough that the nut comes off than a rebuild kit will probably solve the problem as the area where the rubber gasket seals becomes corroded. Removing the sensor, cleaning the mating surface, installing a new gasket will most likely fix the problem. I replace a lot of them and I do not believe we charge that much to do the whole job. If the sensor needs to be replaced there shouldn't be any problem programing the new sensor to the vehicle. Any good shop that deals with tires should have the right equipment and at least one guy that knows how to use it. I also like the TPMS system. It has saved me from ruining one tire and is a great reminder to check the tire pressures when it starts getting cold. You would be surprised at how many people drive around with the light on for months and never check the tires until they come in for service. Its not uncommon for the pressures to be down 10+ PSI by that point. The good news is that we very rarely run into sensors that have worn out batteries. More often the sensor stems are broken or the nuts have cracked. The rubber snap in style are the way to go IMO but they are not available for all vehicles.

13.75 is good 14.25 is great 14.5 is really good. Roughly...... Ill second the remove the cables with the vehicle running. Not a good idea. As far as getting a heads up on an alternator failure. Think of it as a light bulb. Can you tell when a light bulb is ready to fail. Probably not. It will work great one minute and you go to turn it on the next and it is done.

Its always interesting to see what the automotive industry decides to trend into. Most curious for me are the things that where once common but are done away with.This one caught my eye for two reasons and I'll give you a clue. There are two things missing from this door that are still for the most part fairly common. A few manufacturers have done away with one of these but few have done away with both (referencing mostly mainstream European vehicles). So, do you know what is missing?

the Nissan Titan XD Crew S 4x4 with the 5.0 diesel ( for comparison ) MSRP: $44,370 Horsepower: 310 hp @ 3,200 rpm Engine: 5.0 L V8 diesel Curb weight: 6,810 lbs Dimensions: 231″ L x 80″ W x 77″ H Tire size: LT245/75R17 Torque: 555 lb-ft @ 1,600 rpm towing: Up to 12,310-lb I believe this is the same engine that the Tundra will have when they release the diesel version. On a side note. The 5.0 getting direct injection has been anticipated for a couple of years now.

I just noticed that. I did have the right side head removed previously to investigate a coolant leak. So all i had to do was pull some bell housing bolts, a couple of connectors, and swing the accessories out of the way.

Part 2 Getting back to the motor on the GMC. We had some theories as to what caused the failure and after swapping the engines I decided to pull the valve covers. My hunch was correct. Lack of maintenance combined with some other factors. If you think running 6,000 miles plus on conventional oil is just fine this may change your opinion.... The first major snow storm was a little harder on some vehicles than others. This vehicle came in with almost no body damage but the impact from hitting the ditch wiped out the radiator, condenser, and cooling fan. Ford truck vacuum leaks. the cooler weather has brought in a couple. This is the elbow for the PCV hose where it attaches to the intake. First photo is the badly deteriorated old one and the second photo is the new one installed. This is a really common problem with the dodge stratus. The upper strut mount is aluminum and basically rotted way. This customer was lucky they didn't blow a tire as the spring had almost wore through the sidewall. We are starting to see this more frequently with the bolt in style TPMS sensors. Snow and ice along with the salt corrode and break the mounting nuts. Most of the time we see just a crack in the nut. This one is so bad there is a piece of the nut missing.

Some things of interest that I have run into at the shop over the last few months. It never ceases to amaze me what people do to there cars. Here are a couple of head shakers. Gorilla tape is not an acceptable replacement for rack or CV dust boots Air filters do not replace cabin filters. (Yes this really happened) This one is a little hard to see but the customer installed brake rotors that are almost an inch in diameter to small. there are two options for this vehicle and they had the other option. Always compare the new parts with the old parts just to make sure..... This last month has been a bad month for motors. I think we condemned over 10 of them. This one is a Subaru which was one of the easiest motors I have done. This is one of the more difficult motors I have run into. The power train is dropped out the bottom and then separated after the AWD transfer case is removed from the transmission. I had about 11 hours into this project. Something kind of cool I ran into. Carbon tracking is not uncommon but the pattern that this one made is pretty unique. This vehicle came in with an ABS light on. After pulling codes and inspecting the bearing I found that the plastic magnet exciter ring was flaking off from the bearing (the missing part is visible near the large bolt head towards the bottom of the photo). I am seeing a lot more of this type of exciter ring on newer vehicles so this may become a pattern type failure. The fix was to replace the bearing assembly.