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About 311Hemi

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    Sr HSO Family

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  • Location:
    Linwood, MN
  1. Follow up to my last message. The 45k has been more than enough for my size garage (BTW I have 11' ceilings). New Years eve I finally turned it up when we had people over and the heater did not run all that much to keep it 65* in the garage (it was around 25*). I haven't had a real good cold snap to see how it goes, but I don't expect it to be an issue.
  2. I just installed a Beacon Morris 45k in my 850 sq/ft, 3 stall garage. We built the house 2 years ago, and I then insulated the walls with R19 and blew in cellulose in the attic to around R34. Garage doors are R9.6 if I remember correctly, one service door and no windows. 1/4 of my garage is common wall with the house. Sterling (company that makes the Beacon Morris heater) recommended a 45k for my garage. 90% of the time I will keep the garage at 50* and based on my heat loss that was the proper size heater. I also installed 2 ceiling fans. FYI, in the heater section at Menards they have paperwork that you can submit to get an heat loss calculation done for your space and a recommendation on sizing for a heater. I am really liking the Beacon Morris heater, and it is very quiet.
  3. Anyone know what a decent price would be for an adjustable Polaris V plow, used?
  4. Minimum depth I would consider would be 24'. One side of my garage is 24' and I can fit the suburban in with a few feet of space to walk by. If I get a truck that is a longer I may have to park in the other stall.
  5. Looking at buying a used wheeler in the next month or two, and have narrowed it down to either a Can-am Outlander or a Polaris Sportsman 500. I am looking in the 2004 or newer can-ams, and 2005 or newer Sportsmans (due to upgraded suspension in 2005+ models). I originally was fairly set on buying a Sportman, mainly because they are so common and can be had for a decent price. I rode a 2008 this winter and man did that thing ride nice! Then, I started talking with a friend about it and he said he would go with a Honda or Can-am over the polaris. His main reasons were the Polaris has many grease zerks that need maintenance after going through water, where the Honda and Can-am don’t. He also said the Can-am and Honda have fully sealed drive-trains, vs the Polaris that doesn’t. He goes on weekend rides with groups and said that they see more problems with the Polaris’s than any of the others, which are mainly Honda and Can-am. My main uses for it would possibly include plowing a 125′ driveway in winter, dragging a disk for a food plot, and possibly moving a boat around once in a while. It would also take me back to the backside of my property which at times can include some muddy/wet terrain. Anyone have any additional insight here?
  6. My neighbor and I just started this year. We used plastic 5/16" taps, food safe tubing, into food safe 5 gallon buckets. We just drilled a hole in the top for the tube. Probably too small to see, but here is one of them. And the arch the neighbor had made for this year. I am contemplating making one for myself so I don't have to rely on waiting until he is ready to cook or borrow his. I am borrowing it tomorrow to do my final cook of the year. I am curious to see other peoples arch's for ideas. I am thinking about making a permanent one, but if so it will be a fixture in the back yard that I want to make look nice.
  7. I just built a little under two years ago. A few things that come to mind. Basement - Run the tubing (wisboro/pex?) for in-floor heating in the basement. We didn't, but I wish we would have. Basement - Rough in plumbing for all future plans. We had a drain/vent placed in the wall where I plan to build the bar. Also did two other bathrooms. Garage - 18' door. I knew this and still didn't do it. Kick myself every day. I went with a 10' on the third stall, would have been much better to have the 18' on the main door. Floor joists - Ask your builder about this one if you plan to do hard wood floors upstairs. I personally would request 16' OC spacing, no more. My builder did 24" OC and based on the national hardwood floor asc guidelines I should have put down more playwood. The 24" OC spacing also created issues when it came time to install the granite floor tile as it did not meet the recommendations for installing natural stone tile. Also verify the thickness of the subfloor they plan on putting down and reference both the national hardwood floor and the tile association to make sure you get it right the first time. I didn't know to ask about this stuff. If your builder says you don't need it (and you plan on using these materials), call around yourself to flooring installers to see what they say. I did and learned some stuff after it was too late. Garage - Have them run the gas line and power if you plan to put a heater in the garage. I did and it made things much easier. Garage - Request storage trusses, not basic attic trusses. You are very limited on what you can hang from normal attic trusses, wish I would have upgraded. Yard -Consider including the sprinkler system with the house if possible. I spent $10-12k if I remember correctly on all lanscaping stuff after the build (sprinkler system, black dirt, hydroseed, retaining wall block, etc).
  8. I have the same soil in northern Anoka county. I spent the money on black dirt, sprinkler system, and hydroseeded two years ago and my yard looked great last year. Neighbor across the street did the sprinkler system and hydroseed last summer and it came in good as well from what I could see. The yards in our neighborhood that put down seed have been working at it for a while and they still look rough. They did not put anything down (straw or anything) on top of the seed and the rain took it's toll washing their seed away. None of the lots are level...so that played a part in it as well. One of them finally started using some seed blankets last year and is now starting to make progress. On top of that, seed need water.....and without sprinklers or rain it's going to be a tough to get that seed going in the sand IMO.
  9. I just built mine in the same location (above garage doors) a few weeks ago out of 2x4's with OSB on top, 24" deep. Since I didn't want the weight tied into the ceiling I used a chain at a 45* angle (multiple locations) and tied into the header. Both ends are also secured to a wall. It is pretty sturdy, but I don't plan on putting really heavy items up there.
  10. You sure it HAD to be done that way? I can't see that being a requirement anywhere. They may have done that to save space, but I can't see I have seen it done line you are suggesting. My house was built 1.5 years ago and the builder wrapped all of the foundation block in 2" foil faced rigid insulation, all seams sealed. Rim joist was sprayed insulation. Frames walls were bat insulation with vapor barrier on inside. Still researching the best way to finish it.....but not in a big hurry there. What was up against the wall (or was it just block), and where was the plumbing and electrical ran?
  11. Ahh, my whole garage is only one sheet thick. The ceiling was done instead of a vertical wall in the attic.
  12. What do you mean double drywall? Still not sure on what code is on this...I will call my building inspector today to find out.
  13. My garage ceiling is a firewall and I cut a hole in it to spray insulation up there. I have it all insulated and closed up in a fashion that allows me to access it again if need be. Am I required to mud and tape the joints there to keep the firewall in tact? Would it be possible to make it more of a sheet rock access panel that would rest on a wood frame? I know my old house had an access like this inside the house, there was no or tape on it.
  14. When you guys are running humidifiers in the winter how do you deal with condensation/frost on the windows? My humidity is fairly low as it is in my house and in cold temps I get some condensation at times. I do have an air exchanger that I can adjust based on the temp outside. It would be nice to have a system that did it automatically.
  15. Now the general is recommending Flat or Eggshell. He claims the Satin or Semi will show the joints more and thinks I will be unhappy. I don't think that should be an issue if the taper does his job. The taper he used on my house was great, so hopefully who he has doing your house is no different I would not go flat, eggshell at a min....possibly leaning towards satin. I would use exterior paint.
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