Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Best Hunting Property in MN


pheasantsforme

Recommended Posts

If you could buy 40 acres in MN, where woould it be and why? I'm interested in:

- bucks

- waterfowl

- upland (pheasants or grouse)

- turkeys

bear, wolves, moose would be cool, but not buying the property just for these for these animals.

Starting to look into property across MN... which is the best area, best value, most scenic location?

Location does not matter, just would like a getaway. SE MN, up by Ely, Duluth, Brainerd, Detroit Lakes all are options. I'm curious to see why people like certain areas. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would have to say northeast mn duluth to ely. Depending on the piece of land you could have deer, bear, grouse, wolf, and moose. That doesn't even include the fishing...also if you look at a map of public huntable land, st. louis/lake/cook county together they have TONS of it. I have lived all over this state from sw mn to ne mn and I think this area has the most resources available to use without running into any crowds. Oh ya and waterfowl too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great question. I had property in Northern Pine County for 10 years and just sold it this year and I am also looking. Here is what I learned.

- Get as versitle peice of proprty as you can, which sounds like you are trying to do.

- No 40 acre parcel will provide everything. Try and hit 2-3 things real well.

- For me I want it within 2 hours of home, so that limits my area. It was great to be able to go up for a single day to hunt, scout, hang stands, etc. and not drive all day or blow the whole weekend.

- Try and get it close to or adjoining public land. In Pine Co, and north there is tons of county owned land. If it is next to that or that land is close by your 40 turns into many more huntable acres almost exclusivly to yourself. Smaller tracks of unposted tax forfeit land doesn't get hit hard by the general public like WMA's, WPS's, State Forests, National Forests, etc.

- If you fish, look for a decent near by lake that you can access.

My old spot bordered 200 acres of tax forfeit land to the north. Great Deer, grouse and Bear hunting (however I don't bear hunt). Ok waterfowl hunting, as there were several beaver ponds, turkeys were present and seen fairly often, but it was a small local population. No pheseants. Wolves, coyotes, fox, etc were all seen over the years. Sturgeon and Oak Lake were close by.

So for me, for all around property I would look to Pine and Carlton couties. Also prices in these areas are pretty decent in comparision to other areas. (SE MN will be twice as much per acre).

That said if money and distance from home were not an issue, and I was after good Deer and Turkey land with grouse and/or pheasant mixed in (which is my list). I would do SE MN as many others have stated. Cons for me in SE MN is price, distance, lack of lakes, and lack of tax forfeit property.

If you are interested in comparing notes shoot me an email rrgierke at yahoo dot com.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ottertail county. Top waterfowl county,likely more bucks killed in this county than any other, has grouse/pheasants/turkeys but 40 acres isn't much you could walk it and hunt it an hour tops. I have 80 acres for sale in that county, it has bucks,ducks,grouse and sometimes honkers roost there overnight, for pheasants I drive south of battle lake/ashby/morris etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2-3000? really? the last time I looked, non agricultural land, "recreational land" was $4500 an acre minimum in SE MN, Caledonia, Houston, anywhere with trees and water.....

That is why I said min. This was a few years ago but the farmer who's land I hunt (close to area you mention) was buying land at $3000. but then this was some years ago and he was buying more land than 40 acres. I agree that small rec. land parcels are going for $4000 PLUS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey everyone, thanks for the input. Lots of good info here: Not being set on a single size land (40 acres could cost the same as 240), looking at property next to state land, food plots...

Gurkster- thanks for the input of Pine County. Looks like that land may be the most versatile/best value.

The next step for me is to start the homework phase, work with realtors in all 3 parts of the state and look at properties as they come up! thanks again. Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I vote for detroit lakes area. They seem to have it all there. decent pockets of pheasants. Tons of deer, with big bucks. pockets of grouse. The best waterfowl in MN, for locals and migration. More and more turkeys every year. And a few moose that are pretty easy to find. Dont forget about the fishing.

A few posts here are right about where you want your land to be. Ajoining to public land is a good idea most of the time. It makes your land bigger. Another thing i looked for was farm land. Make sure you have some good corn and other crops around you.

I am in ottertail county and have 120 acres. To my west is public hunting, and my south and east is all farmed. Every year i am guaranteed to have corn and beans around me. I have 2 ponds and can basically shoot ducks any day and kick up a rooster or 2 or shoot a deer.

Good luck and do your due diligence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.