Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
wayne123

Disposal of One Pound Propane Tanks

Recommended Posts

People (including myself) were commenting on how to dispose of one pound propane tanks on the post about size of propane tanks. I wanted to start a seperate thread on this subject because I have a bunch I want to get rid of.

I did find the following on the Hennepin County HSOforum:

_______________

Gas Cylinders (1-pound size)

Accepted At These Hennepin County Facilities. Proof of residency required (MN drivers license or current utility bill).

Bloomington Drop Off Facility

No Fee

Small one pound cylinders only (look for DOT-39 on the label)

DO NOT THROW IN THE TRASH!

We accept small 1-pound butane and propane non-refillable cylinders only.

Because gas cylinders and tanks contain a compressed gas, if they are thrown in the trash they can explode and cause injury to solid waste workers. When they seem to be empty, there is still a small amount of explosive gas left in the cylinder, even when it no longer shows a flame.

_______________

On the other thread people were commenting that you could depressurize the cylinder and throw them in the trash. Is this recommended by the manufacturer?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is some great info, and a good reminder. However, with the newer style 1 lbers out now, does the same hold true? I believe that the new kind come with a cap that's screwed on after the cylinder's spent that releases the rest of the gas. With all of the gas expelled from the tank, it can be safely thrown into the trash, or recycled. Hopefully the latter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put a bullet hole in them and toss them in the trash, or send them to the recyclers. That may not be the politicaly correct way to do it, but is is a loophole in the system.

Might not work for the metro guys, but for us rural type it combines two things we love, guns and cheating the man.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are a resident of Dakota County drop them off at the Recycling Zone. I work there.. Many counties also have a program similar to what we run. The recycling zone takes all sorts of Haz waste that you accumulate around home. This is for residential homes and not businesses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

KTapper- what do you guys do with them after they get dropped off?? I know alot of trash goes through the incinerator, but these things would obviously blow up. I have always wondered that about them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We are mostly a drop off site, we store them and a company comes and picks them up I'm not sure what they do with them.

But we take mostly anything you can imagine. We deal mostly with recycling like cans,glass,paper etc. Paint and drain oil are the most frequently dropped off.

Here is the HSOforum with a list of items accepted.

Dakota County Recycling Zone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

they do not blow up when shot. tried and tried and never any luck. even placed one in a fire and then shot it and that only produced a fast flame that sent it spinning around. but never a boom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't there a way they can be refilled? Seems like such a waste.

There is a way to refill them but not sure how to do it or how safe it is and I agree, it is a big waste. Too bad the manufacturer wouldn't take them back and refill them, maybe charge a small deposit or something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bout 3 years ago I moved and when cleaning out the garage I found a [PoorWordUsage] load of empty 1 pounders. I called the recycling place in S. St. Paul. They said if they were somehow unsealed they would take them. So I cut them all in half with a band saw and turned them in along with everything else I had for recycling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put a bullet hole in them and toss them in the trash, or send them to the recyclers. That may not be the politicaly correct way to do it, but is is a loophole in the system.

Might not work for the metro guys, but for us rural type it combines two things we love, guns and cheating the man.

I FINALLY HAVE MY NEW QUOTE -- THX NEIGHBOR GUY

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bring mine home. After Im postive they are empty, I drill a hole in em on the side, and em set out for the trash man. No problem as long as they(trash men) can see they have a hole in em.They take em.

I live in St Paul.

Just Me

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just bought the refill adapter from the local fleet store and plan on trying it out soon.

Mr. Heater makes it

Your suppose to be able to attach the 1 lb tank to the 20 lb tank.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:
Might not work for the metro guys, but for us rural type it combines two things we love, guns and cheating the man.

Thats funny!

Good one Neighborguy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

found three of the 1 lbers on the lake today all empty of course. seams some guys think that this is the correct waytoi get rid of the tanks. one day I find out whos doing this and tell them to read the lable despose of properly and if that dont work Neighbor guys quote will come out of my mouth.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been using the refill adapter that I bought at Fleet Farm and have had very good luck. You are not able to get them all the way full but when you have 8 of em that is not a problem. Just make sure that you cool the tanks first, you are able to get more in than if they are at room temp.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18w 4" Flood Driving Fog Light Off Road Lights Boat Lights driving lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pj75zbQ34AMAQ
    • Last weekend I switched out my ramp door for a bay window.  I'd like to spray foam it, but I'm sure I won't be able to find anyone willing to do it professionally in my area, at least not at a reasonable price.  Last winter I had to drive an hour and a half to get the rest of it spray foamed for about $2000.  One company told me they wouldn't fire up their equipment for less than 1800. For this small of an area I'm thinking I would be just fine with the foam boards @ 2-3/4" thick with the furring.  Otherwise, does anyone know how well those Menards Froth Packs work?  $360 still seems kind of spendy to spray foam that little area myself.  
    • That's awesome. I gave mine a test last night and they weren't bright enough. I might have to order some bright lights from Amazon. 
    • Looking good! I also wanted reverse lights. I used some of the really bright light bars from Amazon on mine.  
    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
    • I have a 6.5x14 Ultra Shack. I'm guessing was built early 2000s. Had to tear apart interior walls due to moisture build up. Steel frame, with aluminum 1.5x1.5 or 1"x1" tube studs. Previously insulated with pink board foam between studs, with a thin quarter inch thick foam pad glued to the studs, then paneling glued over the top of it all. I'm thinking the issue was no vapor barrier? I have it all torn apart down to the studs. Wondering how I should finish it, use a vapor barrier such as poly? Or no vapor barrier? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!  -Nate
    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
  • Our Sponsors