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Rod blanks...


311Hemi

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Yep!! That will work also. The quide charts are ok, but I would do what you mentioned, or have Thorne Bros space them, because like you mentioned, each blank is different and you can do alot of things with guides to make the rod perform better. grin.gif

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Harvey your best bet would be to start off on a cheaper style "kit" or two to get some practice with some basic skills under your belt before droppin any big money on nice stuff.

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Here is a basic Guide spacing chart for Casting and Spinning rods. Note that is says to fine tune the spacing for the individual blank. It also shows type and size but that is relative too, I tend to use the smallest, lightest guides I feel I can get away with.

Guidespacing.jpg

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 Originally Posted By: rushing
Harvey your best bet would be to start off on a cheaper style "kit" or two to get some practice with some basic skills under your belt before droppin any big money on nice stuff.

Agreed Rushing, I could maybe mess up or worse yet, mess up for sure. Many dollars would be down the tubes or I would have a spendy rod that didnt work right and also be the ugly duckling.

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Harvey, If you take your time, you can make a very useable rod. The only thing is most people will do better on there 3rd or 4 attempt. And believe me I have taken apart things that didn't turn out well for one reason or another.

I wouldn't recommend buying a top of the line blank and guide setup for your 1st attempt, but I wouldn't buy some old fiberglass beater either. There are some real decent low to middle end graphite blanks out there for a reasonable price. I would stay away from kits, you are going after a "custom" rod that you want not something someone else thinks you want.

Take a few minutes and think about the rods you have fished with so far and think about what you like about each one, things like the guides, the action and the handle setup. Then pick the one thing about each one that you like the best and create a rod using those types of items.

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I agree, there are lots of good kits available. If you have a shop near you that's great. If not, there are a lot of good online shops. I'd be glad to send you links. As for guide spacing, the charts are a good start. Put the reel you'll use on it and run the line through the guides. Bend the rod and move the guides to get the proper spacing needed for the best fit. You could find you need a different guide here or there but not likely. If so, just order it. You'll get a good fighting and casting rod with this simple method. For a first rod, I'd suggest a glass blank since they are more durable and forgiving. One less thing to think about. Just my 2 cents. ONE WARNING; It's adictive!!!!

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The kits are nice but kind of generic. My first build 15 years ago was a kit. Built my father a fly rod for X-mas with out him knowing. Was still a teenager and snuck down to the basemant at night and hacked away on it.

Going the non kit route gives you alot of options. Personally I up-grade the guides not the blanks. I have built on alot of diff brands and really like Cabelas blanks. They have a wide range of blanks in the 30-70 dollar range that can keep up with the big dogs. Tons of blank companys out there but only a handfull of manufacturers. Guides are getting outrageous price wise but a higher end super lite-weight guide can really make a rod...

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You are 100% correct on the guides. Spend a little more. They are lighter in weight.

I don't know if you knew this, but Loomis use to make the rod blanks with the Cabela's name. I think they still do this. I think the XML series would be equivalent to a G. Loomis GL3.

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If a person is extremely concerned about the weight of the guides, they also need to watch how much extra thread they putting on the guide wraps, especially on the tip section of the rod. Also proper prep of the guide and how much epoxy you put on the wraps makes a huge difference in weight. A person can make up a lot of weight just making sure they don't put any extra anything on the last 3rd of the rod. This is where the thinner epoxy comes into play. I learned that the hard way on ultra lights. All that extra epoxy that you need to cover the thread adds up. You will notice extra weight more in the tip section than in the butt section of the rod.

I start all my guide wraps no more than 2 wraps before the guide foot and I never use more than 4 trim wraps, this also helps keep weight down. I also have started using even lighter than a size thread, so things are even lighter.

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 Quote:
Really? How can that be at that price?

Just because they are made by Loomis, doesn't mean they are the same quality as the Loomis brand blanks.

Not that they are bad, just probably not the same exact thing.

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Ok, that makes more sense now.

Anyone still go down to the St. Croix plant and buy seconds to tie up? I heard a rumor they dont let people do that anymore?

Whats the big difference in seconds?

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seconds usually have are usually not quite as straight or have a blemish in the paint.

I believe St.Croix quit that cuz people were building on the 2nds and selling them as 1st line or something of that nature. I have built on some 2nd and there was nothing really wrong with, just had to putz a little more aligning the guides.

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 Quote:
Maybe I didn't word that post correctly. But at some time g.loomis did build blanks for Cabela's

Rodmaker, they still may....just that they are probably not the same exact blanks they sell with their names on them. Usually the higher end blanks are made with thinner walls and that requires a higher quality material than the lesser blanks. I don't buy the very high end stuff myself, mainly because I think there is a point of diminishing returns on the $$$ you put into the blanks. In other words a top of the line blank may cost you close to twice as much as a middle of the of the line blank and be only 25% better.

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The only way St. Croix will sell anyone 2nd blanks now is if they are for school classes. They had too many people building on seconds and selling them as firsts, like mentioned above. The average buyer wouldn't know the difference between the first and second, and believed what the rod builder told them, so if the rod builder was able to sell a second at a first price, he made probably twice the money.

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 Originally Posted By: crazyice
The only way St. Croix will sell anyone 2nd blanks now is if they are for school classes. They had too many people building on seconds and selling them as firsts, like mentioned above. The average buyer wouldn't know the difference between the first and second, and believed what the rod builder told them, so if the rod builder was able to sell a second at a first price, he made probably twice the money.

Also some idiots sold their custom rods with "seconds" blanks promising a factory warranty. When they were returned to St. Croix for warranty issues they had to change their policy regarding the sale of seconds.

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There was a real lot of trouble with that a few years ago. A lot of that took place on hsolist as well. Most companies don't want to sell seconds or even pieces any longer. You used to be able to get some great deals and even stock up on pieces you could use for repairs, experiments or making into a true custom ice rod (out of a fly tip). I have gotten 2nds for kids classes but not without proof that I was actually doing that. Shame too, most of the seconds were simple finish blems. I'd sometimes change the color of the blank and you'd never know. As usual, the little guy and end user gets hurt due to "profiteers".

There are good quality blanks that don't cost a fortune and perform as well as look very good. Most mfgs. have them, Rainshadow, Tiger Eye, Forecast, etc. Even private lables from the distributors or closeouts.

Heck, there was a big problem with counterfit blanks a few years ago too!! They even copied the company tags and included them! Shop with a known dealer and you'll be fine regardless of what you buy.

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The last 4 rods I've built have been on Cabela's XML blanks, and I wouldn't hesitate a minute in buying another. You're getting a real quality blank at a reasonable price. You do need to watch out though - I shipped one back for replacement that should never have gotten past quality control. Had a visible crooked spot in the blank.

Played around with some of the "top-shelf" stuff at a metro store that specializes in rod building and such. To be honest, I can't imagine spending the $$$ on some of those blanks - which were (in my opinion) half the rod of the XML at 3 times the price.

But that's just me.

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The XML are nice rods/blanks. Probably equivalant to a G. Loomis GL3.

The biggest question people should ask them selves when purchasing a blank s/b. How sensitive does it need to be (jigging, rigging) then pay a little more.

How important is weight.There is a difference in blanks. There are differences in quides also.

It all comes down to preference.

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