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FM Ultimate Fish House

deadminnowcatcher

By deadminnowcatcher
in Ice Fishing

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ozzie Grand Master

ozzie

Posted
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i am not sure of the logistics on his modification but I know he hard wired the vex into his house and it is pretty slick....no battery and the vex can run the whole trip with out worrying about the battery!!!

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deadminnowcatcher Proficient

deadminnowcatcher

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Just to update you on what i have spent so far. $2,294. This was for the trailer, framing wood, floor, roof, rubber roof, 2 windows, door, stove and oven combo and screws. major expenses remaining is insulation, siding, and interior finish. I have a goal of $5,000 and it is gonna be close. I do not want to cut corners on the interior.

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Rick Grand Master

Rick

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I haven't read the whole thread so maybe this has been mentioned, but a fan or two blowing from the sealing to the floor can make a big difference in the comfort level.

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irvingdog Mentor

irvingdog

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 Originally Posted By: Rick
a fan or two blowing from the sealing to the floor can make a big difference in the comfort level.

A Tale Of Two Sticks Of Butter:

(L.O.W. 2003 25 below zero)

We emptied our coolers into a chilly rental sleeper one March. For some reason, one stick of butter was set on the floor of the house, and the other was placed on the fold down cot hanging from the wall.

24 hours later; one stick is frozen solid, the other a melted puddle of fat.

So, yeah; fans are important......

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fishb4work Rookie

fishb4work

Posted
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 Originally Posted By: Sandmannd
Can you run a vex off of a 12 volt battery? I thought the vex batts where less than that.

Vexilar battery's are 12v as well and are set up to draw 7 amps or less as long as the supply or positive side is fused at or below 7 amps the flasher should be protected from a short to ground that would cause the unit to fail, I'd have to look but i believe the unit it's self is fused as well. May want to contact vexilar for warranty issues just in case, they may have a suggestion.

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mediocrates67 Enthusiast

mediocrates67

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instead of a normal heater on the wall and a fan on the ceiling, what about a forced air furnace? my buddy has one, put it in the storage under the rear bunk on the floor. that keeps everything circulating from the bottom and forces the heat on the feet first. also, gives you more wall space.

deadminnow, what have you decided on bunks? are you doing a convertible table/bunk in the rear of the house? if you do a full bunk with osb and hinges you'll get some great storage. i think when I do mine, that's how it will be and then i'll just have to make room for a portable card table.

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deadminnowcatcher Proficient

deadminnowcatcher

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As far as a heater goes I am still undecided. I like the forced air furnace but you almost need a generator then, because of battery drain. What i would really like is a vented heater but one that you can see the burner through glass on the front of the heater. I have been unable to find anything like this.

As far as bunks go i am thinking i will go with fixed bunks. Nice to always have a bunk ready for a nap. I am waiting for a call from the spray foam guy so that i can pick the trailer up and bring it home and start on the framing. I have most of the material bought and ready to go

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mediocrates67 Enthusiast

mediocrates67

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good point, it is louder than a normal wall unit, but he must have either a cheap heater or have it set in there too loose. my friend has one but i've never noticed that it is too loud to talk. plus, it doesn't stay on very long and heats up quick. yeah, you do have to have a generator. but if you want tv, dvd, radio, and lights you're gonna have one anyways.

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beer batter Experienced

beer batter

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I have a Suburban force air furnace and it is loud, but not all that bad on the batteries. A single battery will last 2 days even on the coldest of days. I'd still go with a vented wall mount furnace and add ceiling fans that can be set on delay timer so that they'll cycle on and off. That way if you run out of batteries, you won't run out of heat, just air movement.

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MuleShack Grand Master

MuleShack

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I have a forced air unit in my spray foamed wheel house. It runs for a while if you take it out cold, but once it gets caught up, it only comes on every 15-30 minutes...it depends on how you set the thermostat for the delay and how high off the floor. I just turn on my 3 burner stove and that makes up heat quickly.

You can always insulate the compartment where the forced air unit will be installed to keep the fan noise down. But for how comfortable it is with even heat distribution i wouldn't go any other way.

I have my 3 boat batteries in my house (all wired in series), and have had it running for 6 days straight, keeping it at 65~ with out a charge. You can also use jumpers to charge the batteries from the truck if need be.

You only need geny for TV and microwave popcorn grin.gif

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Coach1310 Veteran

Coach1310

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First of all, great idea for a post. Nothing like having a whole team of experts to bounce stuff off of. Also, thanks for letting all of us follow the process. My dad is cold in his old age all of the time and I finally have him convinced he would ice fish a lot more in one of these so we will be building one soon.... A couple of questions for you

How big is your frame?

Why did you decide to go with winches vs. hydraulic? You may have answered this already, but I didn't read all the pages.

Thanks...keep us updated and good luck.

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walleyeaddict Community Regular

walleyeaddict

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I run an atwood forced air furnace. I have never needed a generator. In my old house I had 2 fans circulating air and they were a lot louder then the forced air. I do not even notice the noise it hardly ever runs. I cycle 3 deep cycle batteries getting between 15 and 24 hours from each one.

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tisosy11 Veteran

tisosy11

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i would think a straight vent heater would be best...the wall space isn't that much of an issue i don't think...when i get a new wheel house...i'll go with a vent heater and put it on the same side as the door. This way you can park against the wind and this should help ...

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MuleShack Grand Master

MuleShack

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I guesss i would have to ask, why would you want to put direct vent heater in, and then run 2 seperate fans on the ceiling to push heat back down? The forced air heater seems to run just as long on the battery charge. I can't compare the gas usage, but i know i got 6 days straight out of a 30lber so far keeping it at 65. (although the temps have been a little warmer, but nights have been cold yet.)

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Trick Apprentice

Trick

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We have a 30,000 btu wall heater in our 7X19 & it REALLY sucks the gas. I'm sure we could get by with a size smaller, but if I had to do it all over again I'd put in forced air. Someone mentioned earlier...you still have to run fans anyway, so either way you'll be chewing the battery up.

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beer batter Experienced

beer batter

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My only argument against the forced air furnace is that if you run out of battery power, you also run out of heat. That's death if you're out in a snow storm, or it's so cold you can't get your truck started. With the direct vent furnace, you at least separate your heat source from your power source.

I have a forced air furnace and it heats really well, but I've been stuck on the ice in a snow storm where you just have to wait it out. It's an uneasy feeling knowing your heat source is tied to 2 requirements (battery and propane). Just my $.02

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ice_it_06 Proficient

ice_it_06

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I've seen a few houses with a propane fireplace in them like on the Kare 11 ice house series.

Remote control flame on the log settings, glass front, I believe it was like 24" wide, 20,000 - 30,000 btu. Installed against the wall with the surround it looked awesome. Most are vent free, but adding ventilation is no big deal on a house.

Search them out as I believe I saw one for like $800 which is not much more then a Empire might cost of equal btu.

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    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
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      Just Food and Drink

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    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

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      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

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    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

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