Small tile job?

[leech~~]

Thinking of doing a small entry way tile job. Do you think I can get away with a thin set on this old linoleum tile which seems pretty flat and tight? I'm not sure I will be able to open the front door if I put cement board on top of it first?

If so any tips?

Want it to look like this which is the back door entry.

Thanks for feed back and ideas.

[JeremyCampbell]

I usually take it off. Problem is if you leave the vinyl on , there's a risk of the grout coming apart because of unseen/undetected air pockets under the vinyl.Of coarse there's the obvious risk too that the mortar will break which will loosen the tile

All it takes is a little bit of play in a corner or anywhere under that old stuff to reck your job.Just me anyways.

[CAMAN]

Chances are there is plywood beneath the linoleum to make it even with the hardwood. Tear up the linoleum and remove the plywood, then install 1/4"(maybe 1/2" of needed) hardie backer and tile over that.

[mallardnwalleye]

Leech, the vinyl looks like old VAT Vinyl Asbestos Tile as it seems to measure at 9x9 not 12x12 which is typical for VCT Vinyl composite tile. I would leave it as bonding to it or the cutback adhesive that is below can be difficult and risky. If you have a solid non springy subfloor of 3/4 inches or greater just go over it with 1/4 inch cement board that is put over fresh latex modified thinset that is applied with a 1/4 by 1/4 square notch trowel. Screw the cement board with cement board screws 1 1/4 " or more at 8 inch O.C in the middle and every 6 inches where there is a butt or edge. Set the Tile with a premium latex thinset and use heavy thinset designed mesh tape with thinset on any cement board seams. Use a planer or shims on the wood reducer to get it flush with the tile before gluing and finish nailing it in.

Good luck!

[leech~~]

Leech, the vinyl looks like old VAT Vinyl Asbestos Tile as it seems to measure at 9x9 not 12x12 which is typical for VCT Vinyl composite tile. I would leave it as bonding to it or the cutback adhesive that is below can be difficult and risky. If you have a solid non springy subfloor of 3/4 inches or greater just go over it with 1/4 inch cement board that is put over fresh latex modified thinset that is applied with a 1/4 by 1/4 square notch trowel. Screw the cement board with cement board screws 1 1/4 " or more at 8 inch O.C in the middle and every 6 inches where there is a butt or edge. Set the Tile with a premium latex thinset and use heavy thinset designed mesh tape with thinset on any cement board seams. Use a planer or shims on the wood reducer to get it flush with the tile before gluing and finish nailing it in.

Good luck!

mallardnwalleye, I had the same thought after a while about it may be the old Vinyl Asbestos type tile since this house is 57 years old. I did measure the front door and I should be able to get a sheet of cement board under the tile and still open the door. So, I think that is the best route to take and leave the old stuff in place. Thanks for the ideas and info guys!

[DANR]

Another suggestion would be to take a look at Snapstone tile at the save big money store. I have used it over vinyl with great success. It isn't cheap, but eliminates the need to tear up the old and do a bunch of prep work.

[Archtek]

mallardnwalleye, I had the same thought after a while about it may be the old Vinyl Asbestos type tile since this house is 57 years old. I did measure the front door and I should be able to get a sheet of cement board under the tile and still open the door. So, I think that is the best route to take and leave the old stuff in place. Thanks for the ideas and info guys!

Don't forget to figure in the height of the thinset under both the cement board and the tile. It looks like you're going to be close.

[Surface Tension]

Be sure to open the door and measure the clearance as well.

[leech~~]

Another suggestion would be to take a look at Snapstone tile at the save big money store. I have used it over vinyl with great success. It isn't cheap, but eliminates the need to tear up the old and do a bunch of prep work.

DANR, it states "SnapStone floating tile system" on their info. How does the grout not break up or tiles crack if this stuff floats around?

[Sandmannd]

Another suggestion would be to take a look at Snapstone tile at the save big money store. I have used it over vinyl with great success. It isn't cheap, but eliminates the need to tear up the old and do a bunch of prep work.

Used Snapstone in my new home for the entrance and bathroom. Love the stuff, very easy to use and works great.

[Kidd]

How does the grout not break up or tiles crack if this stuff floats around?

I've heard from a couple of guy's that this stuff cracks easily, I don't know if it's the way they installed it or what.

Here are some reviews: Snapstone Reviews

[Tom7227]

I would bet that there are two layers of sub-flooring in a house of that vintage. Give some thought to setting a circle saw to a half inch or so and cutting several times around the area and across it. The pull up the plywood and existing tile all in one. Cement board, thinset and tile will then come about up to the adjacent wood flooring. You'll have a couple hours more into the job but something that likely will last longer and IMO look better as it will be flush with the oak.

[nofishfisherman]

I would bet that there are two layers of sub-flooring in a house of that vintage. Give some thought to setting a circle saw to a half inch or so and cutting several times around the area and across it. The pull up the plywood and existing tile all in one. Cement board, thinset and tile will then come about up to the adjacent wood flooring. You'll have a couple hours more into the job but something that likely will last longer and IMO look better as it will be flush with the oak.

If the tile is in fact asbestos (very plausible that it is) then I would avoid cutting through it with a circular saw. If the tile is left intact it poses no danger but start busting it up or cutting it with a saw and those asbestos particles go airborne where they can do damage.

[Cheetah]

I am no expert, but personally I would rip the linoleum out completely so you can be sure you have a good sub-floor and height to line it up with your hardwood floor.

[Surface Tension]

Personally I'd rather have peel and stick tiles then a transition hump.

Leech, don't forget about leaving room for the rug.

Pull off the base trim, do you see the edge of the plywood?

Same thing at the door. If so you might be able to pull it up in one piece.

Do these tiles run into the closet?

Go in the basement and look for nails at the entry.

This should give you an idea of the size plywood you have there.

Could be that you knock the nails though from the basement then pull from up stairs.

A few relief cuts and your done.

You have a small area and can be easily isolated form the rest of the house.

3M 6000 Series Half Mask Asbestos Abatement Respirator $18.75

Disposable Painters suit.

[leech~~]

Well the tiles were not linoleum but like a hard slate. I was going to just go over them with cement board but one cracked on the edge and I noticed it was not linoleum hopefully they weren't asbestos or my wife will find out later?

I did were a mask and chipped them out. Screwed down subfloor with more flooring screws, thin set sheets of Durarock. Tomorrow brother-in-law is coming by with all his tile tools and we will lay her down. Transitions do suk Frank but I don't get to make all the decisions unless it's in the garage!

[DANR]

DANR, it states "SnapStone floating tile system" on their info. How does the grout not break up or tiles crack if this stuff floats around?

[Sandmannd]

How does the grout not break up or tiles crack if this stuff floats around?

[nofishfisherman]

Well the tiles were not linoleum but like a hard slate. I was going to just go over them with cement board but one cracked on the edge and I noticed it was not linoleum hopefully they weren't asbestos or my wife will find out later?

Did you happen to measure the tiles your removed? If they were 9x9 odds are it was an asbestos tile.

Its too late now but if you are removing tiles that you suspect might be asbestos its a good idea to seal off the area you are working in to keep the dust out of the rest of the house. Another thing to do is wet the tile down before you start tearing it up to help keep the dust/asbestos particles out of the air.

[CAMAN]

Another thing to do is wet the tile down before you start tearing it up to help keep the dust/asbestos particles out of the air.

Mix the water with dish soap to break the surface tension. It allows a more consistent coating, unlike plain water that beads up and creates dry spots.