Jump to content

  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Line

mrklean

By mrklean
in Muskies-Musky Fishing

 Share

Recommended Posts

mn_bowhunter Community Regular

mn_bowhunter

Posted
Posted

I had two break offs in one day with power pro 80 lb. Switched and tried tuffline xp and spiderwire stealth. When I got a backlash with the stealth it was terrible. The only complaint I would have about the xp is its larger diameter. That being said I'm sticking with the tuffline xp for all rods. I'd try some new stuff, but at $20 a spool I can just buy another bait instead and not deal with things like green hands or other problems. Trolling I may even switch to 40lb mono.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
b1gf1sh1 Mentor

b1gf1sh1

Posted
Posted

Quote:
What do you guys like to use for line?

depends on the reel. but if i assume correct you mean for big baits. i've tried a lot of lines, i think every one to date, and stren super braid wins with me in the 65# or heavier. IMO it's a very well put together line with great knot tensil, holds up to sand and gravel really well, and casts smooth, a little loud but smooth. i deal with rope nearly every day on the job and over the years a guy just gets a feel for this kind of stuff. for smaller baits i choose the original spiderwire. smoothest casting IMO. just has trouble with sand and gravel. more for open water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
guideman Proficient

guideman

Posted
Posted

I have been using Tuffline for many years now. I did try some ultra cast braid last summer on one rod and really liked it.

I would never recommend using Powerpro to anyone. Tried it some years ago and it had way to many issues.

The Spiderwire stealth is just a re-encarnation of the old Berkly Wiplash. It is very soft and I did use it back in the day. It is also very thin and can produce some very bad backlashes, if you aren't careful with it.

"Ace"

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dano_the_jigasaurus Collaborator

Dano_the_jigasaurus

Posted
Posted

Cortland Masterbraid and Spiderwire Ultracast Braid are both great lines. They two of the rounder braids, cortland doesn't pick up a ton of water (which is really nice in the fall). Easy to handle I made the switch to these two last year after trying just about everything, and I have no complaints thus far.

dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MUSKY18 Veteran

MUSKY18

Posted
Posted

Used Tuf line for many, many years. Really like the line except for the amount of water that it retains. Not too bad when it is 80 degrees out, but when it is 35 and the water is 36, tends to make you a little on the cold side. Last year gave the Masterbraid a try and wasn't so happy with it. Frayed a bunch and snapped causing me to lose a DC-10. Tried Powerpro.....and will never spool that stuff on my reels again. Found Spiderwire Stealth and really like it. Going to spool all my reels with it this summer. 100# on all of them!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JimBuck Veteran

JimBuck

Posted
Posted

Cortland Masterbraid and PowerPro last year. Not a fan of PP anymore...backlash was a nightmare and I didn't care for the coating on the line. The Cortland stuff was excellent though. Stayed round, didn't fray and was easy to work with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
b1gf1sh1 Mentor

b1gf1sh1

Posted
Posted

on the stealth... i really like that line (except the splitting down the middle) but i get green gunk all over my reels so i don't use it. hugobox awhile back said he didn't have that issue. does anyone else have that trouble or not that trouble? it does cast ok and stays dry with the teflon coat (as long as it's not on my reel and still on the line grin) and being flat it spools nice and a lot can be put on so it can be turned around and used again. just too messy.

on the fireline. i think it digs in too easy, won't spool up tight enough consistantly without heavy duty lures, won't knot good without fancy double knots, really bad knot tensil, is too brittle, frays too easy, doesn't cast very well, especially into wind, and splits in the middle too often. it worked great for tying bucktails though when it came off my spools.... my vote? ...lol...

side note... used braid is great for tying bucktails. it just needs a little ink dabbed on before the final coatings. try it out and see what you think. better than tossing it out IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AWH Mentor

AWH

Posted
Posted

Cortland Masterbraid for me. All of my reels are in the process of being changed over to Masterbraid after giving it a try. No issues at all with this line and it is surprisingly dry for more comfortable late fall casting.

Aaron

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JakeJ_Mn Collaborator

JakeJ_Mn

Posted
Posted

Cortland Spectron is my fav. Never had it break on a fish or snap from casting a bulldawg. I use 50# for bucktails and 80# for jerk-baits, dawgs, and trolling. Palomar for knots and fluro or titanium leaders. Been fishing Muskies for 37 years, biggest hawg is a 53 1/2" out of Leech and a 46" Hybred out of Moose. Over 650 successfull releases, but did have to keep on legal a few years back that swallowed a lure all the way down. Donated it to a taxidermist for show. Spectron is worth every penny. Jake

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nick Kuhn Grand Master

Nick Kuhn

Posted
Posted

Quote:
Stren Super Braid, but it has been replaced by the Sonic Braid, so

super baid is done? or am i reading that wrong? if so i need to find a deal on a 200 lb. spool.

I see it sold still just about everywhere, but Stren no longer lists it as a product on their HSOforum. They claim the Sonic braid to be better in all aspects, which I wouldn't doubt as you don't replace a product at the same price point unless it offers equal or better performance to what was previously at that price point. We'll see though, the few reviews of Sonic braid seem pretty favorable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
NCLaker Veteran

NCLaker

Posted
Posted

on the stealth... i really like that line (except the splitting down the middle) but i get green gunk all over my reels so i don't use it. hugobox awhile back said he didn't have that issue. does anyone else have that trouble or not that trouble? it does cast ok and stays dry with the teflon coat (as long as it's not on my reel and still on the line grin) and being flat it spools nice and a lot can be put on so it can be turned around and used again. just too messy...

I had the messy issues with Stealth on a bass setup. Put it on a new rod & reel - after using it everything was green. As the coating wore off, mine appeared to have the splitting issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
steffanf Community Regular

steffanf

Posted
Posted

Originally Posted By: b1gf1sh1
on the stealth... i really like that line (except the splitting down the middle) but i get green gunk all over my reels so i don't use it. hugobox awhile back said he didn't have that issue. does anyone else have that trouble or not that trouble? it does cast ok and stays dry with the teflon coat (as long as it's not on my reel and still on the line grin) and being flat it spools nice and a lot can be put on so it can be turned around and used again. just too messy...

I had the messy issues with Stealth on a bass setup. Put it on a new rod & reel - after using it everything was green. As the coating wore off, mine appeared to have the splitting issue.

I have been using the Spiderwire Stealth for several years now and never had the problems mentioned here about turning things green. I use both 50 lb and 80 lb on my set-ups. I also use some 8 lb, 20 lb and 30 lb on some of my non-muskie gear. NOW, I once tried using the Spiderwire Ultracast in green once. THAT started to turn everything green. The Stealth doesn't do that though.... at least I never seen it happen. I also never really had the splitting issue mentioned here. I do change out my line about twice a month, however, depending on how much fishing I am doing. I know that the tag-end of the line will separate (fray), but I just "weld" the end strands together with a lighter... similar to what you do with the end of nylon rope.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

      good luck!!!   
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

  I accept