Jump to content


we are 'the leading edge' I Share on HSO
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mn_bowhunter

  • Rank
    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Park Rapids

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Similar to what other guys have said, my house is wired with everything into an rv convertor. When plugged into an outside power source it charges the batteries and my 110 outlets are live. When I'm on battery power my lights and furnace are still fully functional since they're 12v along with a couple 12v receptacles. I've got a small 400w inverter that I can hookup to the batteries if I want to watch a movie.
  2. Nice house. You got yourself a lake whitefish, not a tullibee (cisco). Downturned mouth is a dead giveaway.
  3. I want to add a transom mount trolling motor and have a 24v bow mount. My 3rd battery runs the other electronics including starting so I don't want to run that down. I'm worried that if I run my 12v troller to one of the batteries on my 24v setup I'll kill the batteries. I also don't want to add a 4th battery to my small boat. Can I run a parallel wiring setup to the 2 batteries I have while they are in series to the front? My other thought was a way to reduce the voltage, but the load might be an issue. I really don't need the thrust of a 24v transom mount, but if I have to go that route I will. Anyone run a similar setup?
  4. Mine was glued down but it wasn't holding anymore. I had to replace the plywood so I didn't have to deal with the old adhesive.
  5. I did my alumacraft a couple years ago and the carpet was the easiest part of the remodel. I don't know how your boat was assembled, but mine had the carpeted floor installed first then the compartments. If I would have just replaced the carpet I would have had to cut along the livewell and rod locker and cut new carpet to fit. If you go that route make sure the edges are glued well. I stole my wife's rolling pin to get good glue contact.
  6. I think you are assuming you are being billed for the wasted time and that is the real issue here. You say he left, then went and searched for parts, then returned around 2 hours after he left. $180 for 2 hours of a plumbers time sounds about right to me. It doesn't hurt to call and ask for an explanation of the bill. Service calls are always going to sting since they have to cover the time spent getting parts and driving in the billed time.
  7. Read statute 86B.13. This program is different than the other AIS laws. Copied directly from the trailer decal statute: (e) Violation of this section shall not result in a penalty, but is punishable only by a warning The AIS laws referenced in the DNR link are not pertaining to the training and decal laws.
  8. Research I've seen has shown over 90% of boaters are aware of AIS laws. This program is pointless. I also want point out that in the statute it also says that violation is punishable by warning only - no tickets. MN COLA pushed hard to get this passed.
  9. It's simply a matter of digging down to expose the surface water table. How deep depends on how far down to water so that question can't be answered. You saying semi wet makes me think you should contact the local administrator of the wetland conservation act. It's normally the county or local soil and water conservation district. If you do go forward and it happens to be a wetland it can be a huge headache that is easily avoided.
  10. DNR fisheries is the permitting contact. Get ahold of your area office.
  11. It really depends on the area and if the soils are suitable. Around here it's mostly sand with enough separation to groundwater. I was quoted around $6,000 a couple years ago for a 3 bedroom sized system. Mounds are pretty rare here.
  12. I did a few yettis with extruded foam between the aluminum studs. Wood furring strips were attached to the studs and we added 3/4 extruded between those. The roof was the same. Floor spray foamed. I'd do it the same if I had the choice. 8 x 16 houses with empire direct vent heaters. Before the heaters were installed I could hold 70 degrees with a buddy heater no problem.
  13. Other thing to keep in mind is what you should or shouldn't be putting down the drain. Copper sulfate is nasty stuff. If you've got a septic system you could do more harm than good.
  14. Post some pictures. It's hard to say without seeing the floor. Get a hygrometer and monitor your humidity levels in the home. I'm a hardwood guy, but it sounds like moisture may be the culprit. Far too many subs will install before the house is dry enough and problems like this arise. Did they test moisture content of the subfloor before installing?
  15. I saved a buck a bag hiring it out. I had fiberglass blown in and was quoted $1 less per bag installed than I could buy it for. It's worth looking into. I did do the baffle vents myself since that did save money. I'm glad I asked an insulation guy in passing what he'd charge.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.