Do I Need To Replace This Column?

[SkunkedAgain]

I just started my first-ever real home improvement project. We are moving an interior wall in the basement - just the wood panels that you see in the picture below, not the columns. We've got this great, wood beams and columns that form the structural support for the house. They will remain in place but I found one column (the one that supports the ends of the two main beams) is cracked/splitting and has started to rotate on the cement footing. I've attached some pictures. My questions are:

- Do I need to get this inspected?

- Should I think about replacing this column or is this normal for a 60 year old house?

[gregg52]

to be blunt

if you dont know and are asking here

i'm glad i didnt hire you...lol

[Chef]

Ah, yes, the small projects that become huge projects. It's so common. You could ignore the issue and hope you don't have problems, or you can get an estimate from a licensed contractor to do it right.

In my experience, not fixing a structural problem can cost you way more in the long run than biting the bullet, per se and just correcting the problem.

If you're selling the house later, you can note it on the disclosures and it goes a long way in $$ return on the investment and helps sell your house faster for more money.

[Scott K]

I would replace it, I would just get a jack, take the weight off of the beam, knock that one out, and put a new one in, then just lower the jack back down.. It shouldnt be a huge deal.

[jeffreyd]

from the picture it looks like the header beam is two pieces. if so you will need to jack up both sides to support the system remove the beam and replace with new in same place. good luck

[Macgyver55]

Has the entire beam rotated or is it twisting due to warpage?

I had a similar situation in my first house. I drilled and counter sunk holes and pulled the splits back together with threaded rod. Rotated it straight and bolted a scab board on the header to keep it from moving. It never split further or moved again in the remaining 9 years I spent there, and it passed the inspection ok when I sold it.

It wouldnt hurt to get an opinion from a building inspector though.

[Scott K]

from the picture it looks like the header beam is two pieces. if so you will need to jack up both sides to support the system remove the beam and replace with new in same place. good luck

Yup, missed that, 2 jacks needed.

[Back2Dakota]

Looks to be asbestos tile ya got there on the floor also.

[SkunkedAgain]

Yup - asbestos tile

Thanks for the opinions. I was wondering if it's possible to fix that column instead of replace it.

The column is correctly positioned at the top where it meets the two support beams. It has twisted/rotated at the bottom where it sits on the footing (as seen in the picture on the right). The cracks that you see in the picture on the left continue down to the bottom of the column, where it is twisting off of the footing.

[bak2MN]

Rip a piece of plywood the thicknes of the column glue and screw the heck out of it. Do on both sides and you shouldn't have any problems. Before you put the ply wood on try to put some screws in to pull the split together. Use real long screw to maximixe the hold.

[PierBridge]

Hard to say but I highly doubt the entire beam needs to be replaced. Get a hands on opinion from someone who knows what they are doing "expert"

[MNice]

to be blunt

if you dont know and are asking here

i'm glad i didnt hire you...lol

I don't think anyone hired him, I think this is a DIY project.

Call your city, we do question & answer inspections for homeowners all the time.

To me, it does not appear from the picture that the column needs any replacement. Did this column rotation just happen, or did you discover this during your project. This may have been like this since day one. One way to check if the beam has sagged is to take a string line and pull it tight along the beam, either bottom or top, and see if there is a sag at the column. If so, you may need to replace.

[SkunkedAgain]

I just discovered the column this weekend (and only bought the house 6 months ago) so this is a new discovery.

I was just at city hall to apply for my permits so I'll stop by again to ask for a Q&A inspection. Thanks MNice.

[King Canada]

That hunk of Fir probably split and twisted by year two. It's only a cosmetic problem.

[Surface Tension]

Yes that is normal. Looks like 6x6 Doug fir. I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. If your concerned about esthetics good ahead and replace it but what your replacing it with won't be any better then that fir.

As said you'll have to jack up and support both sides.

Cut your new post to length.

If you have friend with a couple adjustable steel columns use them. Or lay a 2x6 on the floor on both sides of the post. Take a 2x6 that is 3/8ths" longer then the distance from the 2x on the floor to the beam. Place the top of the 2x6 next to the post but leave enough room to snip the toenails with a reciprocating saw after you've taken the weight off. With a maul and block of wood start driving the bottom of the 2x toward the post. Do both sides, you'll find the weight is taken off the post. Depending on how much weight you might want to add another 2x6 to each side before you remove the post.

[Surface Tension]

That hunk of Fir probably split and twisted by year two. It's only a cosmetic problem.

I agree but included instructions for use down the road.

[DTro]

If it's only cosmetic, could you build a decorative box around it?

[Steve Foss]

If that was my home, or if it was a job I'd been hired to look at, I'd replace it.

Pretty typical of doug fir, as stated. I don't think the bearing capacity of the post has been compromised significantly. Just has always made me nervous when shifting or faults within the post itself cause lengthwise splitting and twisting of the post. If replacing, others have outlined the best way to support the structure while replacing the post. I generally do it the way Surface Tension outlined, and in this case you're good to go that way because you have plenty of room around the post to work.

Rather than buy a 6x6 doug fir replacement post, I'd get three 2x6 and gang them by glueing, clamping and screwing. Looks don't matter, if I'm interpreting the photos right. It appears this post had been covered by wall material. Or do you plan to leave the whole post and beam structure (which was once covered) exposed? If you plan to leave it exposed, you'll want to replace with a similar post, not a do-it-yourself glue-lam.

In either case, it's best to find a reclaimed older post in excellent shape or three of the 2x6 from former construction also in excellent shape. Once they've been in for a few decades and have had a chance to really dry, when they are pulled apart during a careful demo so they can be reused, they have already done whatever warping/cupping/twisting they are going to, and if you find reclaimed post/dimensional lumber that is straight, it will stay straight as long as your mating surfaces are true, and it appears that yours (beam joint and footing) are good. A new post/dimensional lumber bought from a lumber yard will still have enough moisture that you'll often get some warp/twist/cup as it dries further after the install. I suspect that's what happened to your doug fir post in the first place. If it was caused by shifting of the structure itself, the union of the two beams would be pulled apart or shifted off true.

In larger cities these days there pretty much always are outlets for buying reclaimed lumber, and if you plan to leave the posts and beams exposed, finding an old seasoned spruce/pine/fir post of the proper size will at least make it look like it was original to the house, if that matters to you.

Interesting that, even though the top of the post seems to have split to about a 1/2 inch gap, the post is not sticking out from the beams. Also encouraging to see the mating surface of the two beams seems flat and true, even though the post has twisted and cracked.

[311Hemi]

I would agree with ST and Steve, although I will add that that mine is a DIY yourself project so take my words with a grain of salt....luckily I have family members that do know what they are doing. Just went through taking one of these posts out a couple weeks ago and supported the floor buy building a false wall just next to the main beam with 2x4's under each floor joist over a span of 6 or so joists with a temporary 2x4 header while I totally removed the horizontal beam so I could replace it with a steel I-beam (more involved with that as a new footing I had to pour). I am replacing another one this weekend and will be using 3 2x6's similar to what Steve mentioned as a replacement. A heavy duty bottle jack on each side with a couple 2x4's tacked together will make easy work of lifting the pressure off both sides of the beam so you can pull it out and replace it, as would adjustable steel supports. Very common for these to twist....not sure that any in my house are strait....and a couple in my house have some sort of split in them as well.

[slurpie]

I would say when your this far and doing the work already replace it. Then in acouple years you wont say man i waish i did that then.

[soldoncass]

The reason it twisted was because nothing was holding the bottom. The reason it split was because it dried out, and it is a solid hunk of tree....they dry at different speeds and amounts, depending on the grain. That being said...it doesn't change the support strength, as long as it is still supported on the footing, and no water problems on the bottom. If I was going to just move an interior wall, and leave the beams/ post intact, maybe sheetrock them......I'd leave it and 2x2 a false wall around that beam and footing that sticks out. If your plan is to leave the beam and post exposed, them you need to replace it....good luck finding one that isn't cracked or split.... Those are some amazing posts and beams you have there, looks like a well built house. The other post in the back-ground may not be perfect either, cause the top space looks different than the bottom space......

Lots of good opinions on here.....let us know what you do.

[SkunkedAgain]

I called the city inspector yesterday and he wasn't concerned at all. Based on the size, type of wood, and his knowledge of these houses, he said not to worry but that he would check it out during his inspection of my wall framing.

Our plan is to move the wood slat wall that was covering up the columns. I'm building a 2x4 frame for the slat wall about four feet away, so now these great columns will be exposed. My only plan is to lightly sand and stain the columns. We were thinking about building a trim cap to go around and hide the concrete footings and base of the columns. I'm not too worried about the aesthetics of split wood, just that there are no structural issues to deal with.

At this point, I'll continue my work and replace (or strengthen) the column if the inspector deems it prudent to do so later on. Big wooden columns and beams like this aren't used too often anymore. It'd be a shame not to put it on display!

One thing that I might to do is measure the splits/cracks in the column so that I can track it and note any further deterioration. Thanks for all of your advice and input.