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About soldoncass

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family

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  • Location:
    Sauk Rapids,Mn. U.S.
  1. I did the service calls on the houses we built.....and I can tell you that ALL the problems, we were seeing, went away, as soon as we started gluing foil foam on the block foundations. Before that, code required poly on the block, then a stud wall with fiberglass batts, and vapor barrier poly on that. That created MANY problems related to moisture, I advise NOBODY use fiberglass.(unless they want moisture/mold problems in the future). Spray foam may work, but I don't have first hand experience with that. I know foil foam, one inch thick(or more), will work well, so that is my recommendation.
  2. It looks to me like those walls may be poured concrete(not blocks),and if so the cold transfers inside very well. Concrete blocks have open cores that ,at least, slow the transfer down....solid concrete does nothing at all in that regard. Good insulation is definitely needed. I saw a chart one time comparing different products, and the thicknesses required to obtain equal r value. It was an eye opener for me: for R-13 it was 9 inches solid wood and 9 FEET of concrete or brick. Any air pockets help, but solid items , cold transfers straight through. Makes me think your basement is quite cool?
  3. I think it is the result of too little air flow in those corners. I would run a fan aimed there, then when dry, glue foil foam on the walls top to bottom(3/4" minimum), foil tape the seams and tops. Frame walls inside that, with no additional insulation or poly. Frost shows up where the surface is colder than 32 degrees....no air movement. I don't see any other problem than that.
  4. amateur, Do you have the house plan? That would tell you if the 4" slab was planned or a change. If you are original owner, I would definitely look up the contractor, and have a conversation.
  5. A jackhammer definitely is one solution....not the first thing I would do, though. NO ASSUMPTIONS ARE ALLOWED....owner will have to physically check things out(or hire someone experienced) step by step to find the cause, and ultimately what can be done to fix it. That 4" slab is definitely a contributor to the problem, but not necessarily the only one. There was a time when it was not required(code wise) to have paper on garages...only living spaces...I'm not sure what it was in 2005 . Sometimes sub-contractors take shortcuts ,when they aren't being watched. Once I was at one of our houses when the roofer was finishing up the last little fireplace roof. I noticed he didn't put roofing paper under the shingles on the last side. I told him paper HAD TO BE THERE, so he did, then shingled it ...then I asked him if he had put paper under the shingles on the other side, and he looked right at me and said yes. After he left I went over and checked it out...no paper, so I called his boss. The next day he was back out there ,took the shingles off, put felt down, and shingled it again. This was 20 miles out of town, so he wasn't happy, his boss wasn't happy, I wasn't happy...but it got done right because I happened to catch him at it. That doesn't always happen, so mistakes are made, like this problem...but the contractor is ultimately responsible for it. They may not be in business anymore, though, so the homeowner has to get it fixed.
  6. So the original builder did the roof, that leaked into the garage wall, in less than 6 years. He also poured the 4" slab against the siding (probably with no paper on the wall), that is higher than the top of the block? Time to look up your builder and raise some ..... Dirt settles around a new house for several years, so your stick thing isn't a surprise, most places you just add fill where it settled. When it does it under a sidewalk, it is hard/impossible to get to. That still leaves the paper(or lack of) under the siding.
  7. It is hard to explain on an internet site....much easier with pictures or in person, but I'll try. The wall has built-rite sheeting on the outside of the studs. There should be tyvek or felt paper on the outside of the sheeting....from below the top of the blocks, to the top of the wall, as well as behind bricks, inside and outside corners. If that is done water cannot get to the built-rite sheeting. Vinyl (and steel and aluminum horizontal) siding is installed in J channels, and water can drive around it , if the paper isn't water tight, it will leak. The old types of siding are caulked and painted to keep the water out. The maintenance free types ,like yours, have to be water tight before the siding is installed, because of the expansion spaces needed in the J channels. My guess is: that 4 inch slab was an attempt to solve a problem with the sidewalk sinking by the house. (doesn't look original to me) In the process they raised the level of the concrete above the top of the blocks....now water sits there and finds its way around the J channels, and wicks up the sheeting. What to do about it will take some investigating, and find out if my suspicions are correct (or not). Can you put a roof over that slab to keep water off it? Dig down on the left side of slab to see if there is another sidewalk under that one. Take siding off and check out paper situation.
  8. Builtrite is the sheeting that shows the water stains. The constant wetness is NOT a good thing....it needs to be fixed....the sheeting may not be bad enough to replace,yet(have to get to the outside to find out) . I believe the 4 inch slab outside, tight against the vinyl siding is the problem. I would pull some siding off and make sure it is done properly behind the siding. I believe the water stains show it isn't.
  9. I've got some guesses...places to check out/ observations. I think the 4 inch slab was added, between the sidewalk and entryway.( it butts against the vinyl siding, instead of a finish trim above the concrete) I'd pull some vinyl siding off, just to make sure there is tyvek or felt paper properly put behind the siding and all flashing is done right. Vinyl siding won't stop water, unless it is done properly underneath. Same with the top of the brick... is it flashed properly with paper behind? Water pooling on the rocks sounds like a drainage issue.
  10. My guess is the cap was on tight (sealed) and the temperature was warmer, that made the gas expand. Make sure the cap is only on 1/2 way (like when it is in the boat), so the pressure can equalize.
  11. My final .02. I had a 14' Mirrocraft aluminum boat,15" transom, with a 15 hp Johnson , 2 stroke motor on it. (very similar size boat to yours) It went very well, even packed with gear and 2 guys....a third person bogged it down, and definitely lowered it in the water. Then I went to a 14' Lund, 20" transom, with a newer 20hp 2 stroke motor. That was a little wider, and higher, so it handled more weight much better. I still wouldn't recommend putting a 4 stroke on that one. If my info is correct....the c-14 is rated for 20 hp max, 15" transom, 780# capacity...including people, batteries, gear, motor, gas, depth finder, wood, live wells, fish, refreshments, etc.. A 4 stroke weighs 163#s, plus oil and gas(about 10# per gal), take that 163# off rated capacity of 780# and see how little weight you can really put in the boat, including all the other stuff/ people I listed. My 16' pike D and the ssv 16 mentioned above, both have a beam of about 6' and are 16' long and have a 20" transom.....built to handle more weight (1100-1450 #s). They spread the weight over a larger water area. You are really doing a first rate job on the painting and floor, and carpeting, etc.....I don't want to see you (or anyone else) spoil the memory intentions, by putting too much stuff/weight into a small boat.
  12. I couldn't remember the hp rating differences, so I did a search about it. The info I saw said it was "standardized "about 1983. Before that some companies were doing it different to gain an edge. The old way, was rated at the "crank" or "flywheel"....the new standard is at the prop shaft, so the current method is the actual output in the water. The old way had less output at the prop, because of the gearing loss, etc. Some people estimate about a 10% difference, while one guy I read said his calculations are about 4%. Whichever is correct, just remember the ratings on a pre 1983 boat do not equal the new standard, so a one size drop should probably be used.
  13. Looks like a fun project, and looks like you are doing a good job.......however there are some things I would be concerned about. The weight of a 4 stroke far outweighs a 2 stroke of the same hp. What does the plate say ,for max hp,in the back of the boat? My internet search says 20 hp for a 14-c Lund. I noticed you have taken some foam out of the seats....make sure you put at least that much back in under the floor, so it doesn't sink. I replaced my old 35 hp motor, with a 40 hp 2 stroke . My boat is a 16' Lund Pike D, with steering, and was rated for 60 hp , back in 1977 when it was built. When I looked for motors, I was looking for a 50 hp, but settled for a 40 hp 2 stroke, for 2 reasons. The weight and the different way they rate the hp of motors now, compared to back then. They didn't recommend going up to the max with newer motors, compared to the old ratings system. The old one wouldn't get the boat up on plane, but the newer one does, and it is safe. I opened up the floor more, and still added more flotation under the floor than the original. Lifting out a full livewell, with fish and water, from a tight spot won't be as "easy" as you think. Good luck with your project.
  14. I like Jennings a lot. Decreases the G.B. depth, gives the GOOD GUYS a proven pass catcher and role model for our young guys. Pluses all the way around. We will draft 1-2 more receivers in the draft for sure. I am rooting heavily for Greg Childs also....probably be on pup list this year, but next year he has a chance to be fully healed....he has the work ethic, personality, and talent to make it back. Really hope that he does. I think Spielman will take the top guys on his board, but virtual ties will be decided by position of need. I expect a DT, WR, LB to be the top 3 picks, but a CB could up there also if Winfield doesn't come back. I can't wait for the draft.
  15. How much weight do you think the prospects AGENTS have on Ricks big board? I like some of the prospects talent....but when I hear who is their agent, I think they won't be worth the trouble. It definitely knocks the players down on MY list.
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