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So what's mono good for again?


BassProAddict

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I can only remember ever using mono when I was starting fishing. Back then I didn't know the difference. A line is a line is a line I musta thought.

Now alls I use is braid and fluorocarbon. Both lines have been very popular and well documented for their value and purpose.Fluoro's good for crankin, carolina and finesse techniques.Braid is good for pitchin' and flippin' etc...

What about good ole mono?Does it have space in any of your reels? What do you use 'em for?

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Co-polymer (GAMMA) for UL and light to med light spinning and casting. Max line weight 6-8# and as light as two. 2# for ice.

For heavier line needs, trolling, some casting and catfish, Power Pro braid,

Heavier Fluorocarbon or GAMMA (15-20#) for some catfish, trolling leaders and spinner rigs.

All GAMMA - clear

PowerPRO - yellow

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The way I see it, the go-to applications seem to not include mono all that much anymore. Hey, but for those who do syill use it a lot, is it mostly on your spinning gear or baitcasting?

Mono is great for everything listed above... stretch=good for many techniques, mostly horizontal search baits.

Since mono means mono(one)filament, shouldn't flourocarbon be considered mono also?

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The way I see it, the go-to applications seem to not include mono all that much anymore. Hey, but for those who do syill use it a lot, is it mostly on your spinning gear or baitcasting?

Both, just depends on the technique and lure size. I love the forgiveness of mono, really helps in alot of applications. Everyone thinks you need to have a rock the boat hookset with mono, but remember you are also able to use a lighter wire hook because of the stretch factor making it easier to punch through bone.... especially with a lighter wire Owner cutting point worm hook!

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An off shoot question is, does "expensive cranking" call for braid? Do those $30 cranks make you spool up with heavy braid and does that kill the point of cranking to begin with?

A pike/ski can still rip through braid easily. If you're concerned with losing lures to snags get a lure knocker/retriever. I dont have any cranks worh more than 15 bucks but if I did Id still use the exact same setup, 10 lb gamma copoly.

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Hiya -

I still use mono for some things. I use a very thin, supple 6# mono on my grub casting rods. Casting distance plus some stretch are the main reasons. I use it for spinnerbaits and buzzbaits most of the time. I use it for topwaters, either as leader material in front of braid, or full spool. I use it for Carolina rig leaders...

Biggest use though is grubs. I fish grubs on a 7'6" ML spinning rod with a large spool reel (Diawa SS 1600) and 6# Cortland Endurance mono. I can launch a 1/4 oz jig with a 5" grub just about over the horizon. At that range you don't feel fish hit really - they're just kind of there all of a sudden - the rod loads up and they're on. Part of that is how they hit grubs I think - they just swim up behind them and overtake them. Part of it is the stretch. Stretch and a light rod really help keep fish hooked when they start jumping 100' out...

Still a time and place for mono, for sure. For me at least.

Cheers,

Rob Kimm

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I think mono's a better all-around choice. I only have a couple of bass rods (one baitcaster w/ a med/hvy 7" and a spinning rod w/ a med/hvy 6'10") and since I try to use them for everything mono's the best bet IMO. I have 14lb on both, but I have an extra spool of 17lb for my spinning reel. I know it's not the optimum setup, but it's put PLENTY of bass in the boat!

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Quote:
Stretch and a light rod really help keep fish hooked when they start jumping 100' out...

I’m trying to imagine the stretch of 100yards of 6lb test mono on 7’ 6” rod. I’m intrigued. I think I’ll give it a shot. Is that a slow or fast action rod? I might just try this with my 11 foot steelhead rods. Why not!

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Oh! The line on your reel is just a tool. The more tools you have in your toolbox the more jobs you can do, ya-de-ya de-da. If the fish want a lure tied to mono, I'll give him a lure tied to mono. If not, I'll use a super braid up top and fluorocarbon down low (7.5' e-glass rod Fluoro line and send the crankbait out a mile so it can get down) I don't know why I said that. I think some one said that saturday AM on ESPN2.

You can not beat Mono for corkin'.

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Hiya

100 feet - not 100 yards smile I wonder if I can get a 3/4 oz football head to fly that far though. Be entertaining to try...heh.

The rods I use are 7'6" ML fast action.

I know a guy who use to custom build 11' rods for muskie fishing. He'd make his own gigantic bucktails and weight the bejeezus out of them so they'd cast a mile. He was a lake trout water specialist, and he caught a lot of fish on his goofy setup. Swore it was because he could cast so far and it helped in the lakes he fished - where you could see bottom in 20 feet...

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For applications that, typically, require 8#lb. and under, I find mono the way to go.

It's hard to beat for use with bobbers (....sorry, I mean floats), and switching between 6-8#lb test covers all the walleye/bass(exposed hook) jigging I ever need to do.

I've also returned to it for topwater bass applications. I was using braid for this, but braid's low stretch characteristics often moved lures so dramatically that they overtook the line, which then became tangled in split rings or snagged on hook points.

A line I particularly like is Tectan. This is a German line that is extremely supple, very thin, and with only moderate stretch. A trusted favorite.

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