Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
True

How many batteries

15 posts in this topic

Just wondering if 1 battery is enough to run a bilge pump,livewell pump, areator, radio,nav. lights and 1 or 2 spot lights for 6 to 8 hours of fishing? My boat motor is a manual start.

Thanks True

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not all at the same time of course. On a average day I would think you would be fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Northlander, depending on what you are using at the time you should be fine. You have them all running non-stop and it's going to drain fairly quickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hopefully you never have to use the bilge pump, the livewell pump will be sporadic, and the radio could always be turned off after a while, so you should be fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah I would probably try and go without the radio if you could. Those can really drain a battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know a person who added one of those solar pannels to his boat, kept the battery charged enough, it lasted thru a three day trip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it souhld be fine.. the trolling motors are the only thing that really kills your batts...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You shoud be ok. Depending on what depth finder you have it will read the volts left on the battery, so you can watch it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

solar panels in a boat interesting tell me more

start a new tread maybe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it goes along with the battery topic so here goes. It's simple. It's a Solar panel ~16" x 5" or so that you mount/lay in your boat and it aligator clamps to your battery posts. That's really it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have an older motor the electronics in it may not have enough oomph to charge the battery quickly so over time your battery may slowly drain if you are using all that stuff.

I had an old Evinrude that did that and if you didn't take a long cruise at the end of the day the battery wouldn't get fully charged.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a 15 watt solar panel at Northern last year. It's on sale right now for $130. I put a couple pieces of conduit on the ends to widen out the thing and then laid it on top of the lift canpoy and tied it down. I never had to lug the batteries back to the house the entire season. I switched the charger from the starter battery to the trolling motor battery once in a while. It worked great and I would recommend it to anyone who didn't want to lug batteries back and forth. I used my boat at least once a week but was light on the trolling motor. That battery was 5+ years old and I expected it wouldn't last the season but it did.

BTW I have lake access so the rig never gets off the water. There's no electric where it is docked. Finally the charger on the motor hasn't seemed to work for quite a while and even if it did I seldom run the boat long enough to have it really charge off the motor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hmmmm i was just lookin at on of those trollmasterts for my kicker i'm not sure if you run that of ur cranking battery or your trolling motor mines 24v so i guess it would hafta run off the crankin battery

this solar deal would be a good deal for that huh ??????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should be fine, we got 2 batteries but ones for the trolling motor cuz that really sucks up your batt. life.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Preds make it to the finals.  I thought someone said they were the last team in and technically the 16 seed.   Who ever they face in the finals it will be a battle, hope the Sens make it.  But would be nice to see Cullen get a cup.
    • My hunt in WI this past weekend was tough as well.  I found tons of ramps, they grow everywhere in the area we hunted, but zero morels.  I saw a few pheasant backs, but did not pick them as they did not interest me.  
    • I finally just said screw it, so I picked a couple of guys that I thought would do good (Christie, and Rojas) and some over looked guys that have had a little success this year, and were from the area.  Would never had expected Alton Jones Jr, to go from 80 something place on day 1 to the top 12.  Glad he was on my team though
    • Added these for the fry pan to go with some turkey also.  
    • If you haven't planted your tomatoes yet......plant them laying down on their side. Pick off all the branches up to the top.Lay the plant in a trench and cover the stem up to the top. Put a soil pillow under the top. Just be careful not to break the stem (I have). Tomatoes are the only plant that will send out roots from the buried stem. You will wind up with a large root ball to feed the plant. This also puts the roots closer to the surface where the soil is warmer instead of deep where it is cool.
    • Another disaster. I tried making relatively safe picks, and bombed. I have gone from the top 60 after two events all the way down to just over the 90th percentile. I need to just go with my gut
    • that is what we were thinking too.
    • Live link.   http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/features/webcams/falconcam/index.html      


    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
    • As dumb as this sounds how is this done?
  • Our Sponsors