Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

How do you attach your reels?


toughguy

Recommended Posts

Tommy Tape. I believe it is a self adhesive electrical tape that can be taken off and reused again. It leaves no residue and can be found at Menards and others like Home Depot. It isn't cheap, but works very well. I don't remember what the actual name is at this time, but if you ask someone in the department for tommy tape they usually know what you want. I think it is about $6 per roll.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use electrical tape. To prevent the tape from goofing up the cork, the first piece of electrical tape i put on the handle upside down (sticky side out). It takes a little to get the first wrap on. Then when i wrap the tape to hold on the reel i wrap the new tape on the upside down tape and it works really well. No tape residue on the cork when you take it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shrink wraps that come on the rods seem to be a joke, so I reinforce with electrical tape.

Remember the girls you would date in high school would wrap yarn around your class ring, then put a layer or two of clear fingernail polish on it? I think that might work pretty good as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hose clamps grin Seriously, I use 3M 35 and use a different color to "code" my different rod/reel combos. If you use something other than 3M 33+ or 35 it's pretty much junk and your going to get your $.99 cents worth out of it. You could always use some good hi-voltage or underground rated shrink wrap and as long as you did a real neet job it would look good, but there would be no second chance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put a light layer of masking tape on the handle where I place the reel. It stays there, then wrap the reel with the electric tape. If I want to use the reel in the spring for open water fishing, just cut off the electric tape, and the masking tape is left for next year. No way to pull off chunks of cork that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A quick question- what is "friction tape" that was mentioned in post #2.

Thanks to anyone who would be willing to explain.

Mr_Pike_71

If is used to tape the blade of a hockey stick. It is called friction tape because the side that faces out has a sticky coating. Stickyness is suppose to help with puck handling. I've only known it to come in black. I personally would not recommend it for securing a reel. Unless you like your reel handles to be sticky. You can find the tape at any sporting goods store that sells hockey gear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.