Archery Tips.

[TomBow]

Great read, Stratosman! That is a P&Y article right thar! (finally got a chance to sit down and take it all in). I think this is a great thread, bunch a bow-heads sharing info. Gotta love it!

[outdoor ran]

Very good tips guys! What a great idea to help everyone out. I now know I suffer from TP and will try that to fix it. It has resulted in some high shots and alot of tracking.

I often find myself set up in a thick green forest in early season watching a very small area. I to thought it was a little boring. I will move out and hunt some corners and open areas till the leaves drop and then move deep into the woods.

Cant wait to see what I learn on the next tip

[TomBow]

The following comments are not necessarily those of a sane person.....it's gettin' durn close to bow season! Hope this info helps someone out or at least stirs up some thought on the subject.

BROADHEADS--Shooting and Sharpness

How do you harvest a deer with "stick and string"? By putting a razor sharp broadhead through the vitals which are the heart/lung area of the deer. The most desired hit strikes both lungs or the heart and at least one lung and passes completely through the vitals resulting in an entry wound and an exit wound. Broadheads down deer through extreme hemmorhage or bleeding the deer out as quickly as possible, compared to bullets which add shocking power due the speed of impact.

Broadheads need to be razor sharp, but why? First of all, let's look at the wound channel created by a broadhead. The blades of the broadhead cut tissue as they pass through. Razor sharp broadheads create clean, non-jagged edged cuts that stay open longer than jagged edged cuts. Think of it this way: If you cut your finger with a razor sharp knife, it will take longer for the cut to seal up than if you cut your finger on a duller knife. The sharp knife would produce a deeper wound because the sharp edge meets less resistance as it cuts. A dull knife would tear the tissue more, leaving rough edges that close quicker. Kind of like a jigsaw puzzle, the pieces fit together and interlock. If the edges where all straight, the pieces would not fit together and would keep separating. If you would look at a sharp and a dull blade under a microscope you could easily see the difference in their cutting edges. Sharp blades cut and dull blades tear. The sharp blades meet less resistance and more of the penetration energy of the arrow is available to push the broadhead through the tissue as the tissue is cut cleanly.

Over the last few years, I have begun using cut-on-contact, sharp to the tip broadheads in order to maximize penetration. I have seen more obvious blood trails as a result. There are dozens of good broadheads available in a variety of styles. Maximize penetration by using the sharpest blades you can get. Check broadhead sharpness throughout the season. Blades can get dull just from being in your quiver for an extended period of time, getting bounced around as you travel to and from your stand, etc. Make sure they're sharp before every hunt.

Shooting with broadheads--

Designate a head or two as a practice head and shoot it before the season to check it's flight. Don't take the "flies like a field point" claims as gospel, shoot those heads and make sure! You would hate to not test the flight and later come to find out that it flies more like a poor flying paper airplane on a shot on the buck of a lifetime. Be sure of where that broadhead tipped arrow is going to go once you release it.

To get good flying broadheads, step one is to get them on the arrow straight, aligned with the arrow shaft. I've had good results by screwing the broadhead into the arrow shaft and then spinning the broadhead on it's point on a flat tabletop or counter to check for straightness. When you spin the arrow, look for a wobble of the arrow shaft just above where the broadhead meets the end of the arrow shaft. If it wobbles there, the broadhead is not on straight. Why does it need to be on straight? The blades of the broadhead will try to steer the arrow when you shoot. The fletching on the arrow is on straight (hopefully!) and the wind resistance met by unaligned blades will start to fight the fletching for control, resulting in non-straight arrow flight. Mechanical heads have taken over the market because their is less wind resistance due to less blade exposure when the heads are closed. I'm a firm believer that you can get fixed blade heads to fly just as good as mechanicals if 1. The bow is properly tuned so the arrow comes out of the bow straight, 2. The broadhead is on the arrow straight 3. You have enough fletching on the arrow so the fletches control the arrow flight. I'm won't get into a debate about mechs. vs. fixed blades but I prefer to have broadhead blades that cut as soon as they reach the target which maximizes the available penetration energy. Bottom line is, have confidence in your equipment and you will shoot more accurately and harvest game cleanly.

Fine tune your broadheads by comparing broadhead group flight with your field point groups. Shoot several arrows tipped with field points into a broadhead-suitable target. Remove those arrows and shoot several shots with broadhead tipped arrows, either one arrow at a time or a couple arrows. I prefer to shoot one arrow at a time when shooting broadheads because I won't do damage to arrows already in the target. The things are expensive and I'm not independently wealthy! You can make fine adjustments to your nocking point or your rest to bring your broadhead tipped arrows close to where your field points are hitting. Here's the rule of thumb: (Make adjustments to nocking point or up and down adjustments FIRST)

Broadheads hit HIGH--Lower arrow rest or raise nock point, the opposite for broadheads that hit low

For right handed shooters, if broadheads hit left, move arrow rest to the right, the opposite if arrows hit right. For left handed shooters, the opposite movements should be made.

Always make very small adjustments when moving rest or nocking points, then reshoot to check the results. Once you get the broadheads and field points hitting together you can adjust your sight to the new impact point and you are ready to hunt.

Straight flying, razor sharp broadheads that penetrate deeply into or through the vitals will put venison (or turkey, or bear, or...) in the freezer. Pick a spot...and hit it with a razor sharp broadhead! Best of Luck.

[Deitz Dittrich]

Great tips!!!!

[Code-Man]

I don't shoot archery because of poor shoulders but I sorta have a tip nothing fancy at all. I saw on a show to get you sorta ready for when that big buck comes into your range that might help those that get nervous.

Sprint 30 Yds turn around and sprint 30 yds and pick up your bow and shoot at the target and try to be as close as you can be. It gets ya in shape a little bit and because your heart is pumping and it makes it more like a big buck situation. don't know if it works or not but the people talking about it did say it was the closest thing they have ever had to a real life situation.

[NELS-BELLS]

Tom Bow -

Are there any cut on contact fixed blade broadheads that you would recomend or not recomend? There are a lot to choose from. I have been shooting a mechanical for the past 4 years due to accuracy and want to switch back to fixed but I am afraid that I will spend the $35 for a 3 pack and not be satisfied with the accuracy. I realize the key is having your bow perfectly tuned but I am sure you would still recomend some brands over others. If that isn't kosher with this site can you at least say what brand you shoot?

Nels

[TomBow]

I am shooting the G5 Montec in 100gr. and the blood trails have been awesome. Since I began using this head, I have been blessed with superior blood trails, compared to the NAP Thunderhead that I used in the past. The Thunderheads are great broadheads (pass-throughs when I used them) but I won't go back to them (due to blood-trails) after using the Montecs. I haven't used other cut-on-contact heads than the G5 Montecs but I am a firm believer in cut-on-contact heads being superior to other broadheads. In my opinion, the first contact with game should be a razor sharp blade. Once the blade starts to cut, there should be ample opportunity for the rest of the cutting edge to open a large wound, which will result in an easy-to-follow blood trail.

[Stratosman]

Good tips there Tombow....

If I may I might jump in on Nels' question. Your question depends a bit on arrow type, aluminum arrows you will have a broader range of tips that will shoot well, carbon arrows will you want to have a smaller profile tip since the shaft of a carbon is smaller in diameter. When I shot alum's I love muzzy 4 blade 90 grain tips, but when I made the switch to carbon, they flew very inconsistantly, I went to a smaller profile tip, Rocket Ultimate Steel to be excact, not cut on contact but I am very happy with the performace, there are other tips that probably would shoot as well, NAP has some very nice tips as do a few others. You're right, dropping 20-30 bucks on something that doesn't shoot off your bow like you want can be frustrating... Some other should chime in with there thoughts there shortly and maybe that can be avoided.

[FL SNIPER]

Last year I shot Wasp Jak Hammer Mechanical Broadhead and it did the trick on two deer...flew true and both were pass thru shots...but it didn't give me the blood trail I wanted. Maybe its just me and they work great...but I'm going to try the Rocky Mountain Iron Fixed heads this year per the suggestion of a friend who took down an elk last year with one and said it left a very good wound and blood trail. I've practiced some with the Rocky Mountains recently and they have been flying true to my field tips. I shoot roughly 220 fps with bemen 400 ICS Hunters carbin arrows. Hopefully I can give them a real field test this fall sometime...where it counts.

[Canuck]

THANKS for the great tips. I have been a lurker on the archery section for quite awhile now but do post on the Red River and Catfish. I fish up until hunting season then I am gone. There are very few archery shops etc in our area therefore am very interested in your comments. I shoot a Darton and fortunate enough to be able to shoot right out in my back yard, both flat and elevated. I have been shooting for at least a couple of months and the season starts on the 28th Aug (elk and deer). I am pretty much shooting broadheads right now as they sure fly different than by field points. I find the broadheads are about 5" lower but good left/right and I really don't like that and maybe now I have found out why. Is that why U switched from Thunders? I am shooting 125 Thunder head and they have been excellent on deer. I am mainly out for elk but have not had the opportunity to be in a position to let fly YET, otherwise I would be using the 100s.

Question: could U tell me what NAP stands for? and do the Montec (sp) fly any closer to the field points. I realize every bow is different. I am not going to change this close to the season because it is too close and I know where the Thunder's are hitting but would be more than willing to try other heads this winter.

I too like the cut on contact heads. Again thanks Thombow for the great tips.

[Stratosman]

Canuck....welcome fellow bow-head.

NAP=New archery products.

Don't expect any boradhead to fly like a feild tip. I practice with feild tips to get my consistancy, then prior to hunting season I start shooting some practice broadheads in the same size and type ect. of what I will be using, then fine tune my sights to the flight of the broadheads... after a few sessions you will have your sights where they need to be. Consistancy is what matters, I don't care if the tip flies like my feild tips, that can be adjusted for, but if they are inconsistant that is NO GOOD.

[TomBow]

I have a Darton for my backup bow, a Yukon that is just a bit slower than my Bowtech Patriot.

I switched from NAP Thunderheads to Montecs after a buddy of mine used them and was impressed with the blood trail. The Thunderheads flew well but would have sparse blood trails from solid double-lung hits. I have had great blood trails so far when using the Montecs, which impressed me and gave me confidence that these are the heads to use, as far as I am concerned. Fixed blade broadheads are very touchy and take a bit more tuning work to get them flying well. As I outlined in my tip, get your non-broadhead tipped arrow flying well out of your bow by paper tuning and this will help to get your broadheads flying straight. I have tried several brands of fixed blade heads and have had flight issues from some more than others. From what I have seen during my "research", there are alot of variables that can cause flight issues, shooting style, bow used, arrow used, bow tune and FOC. I use an FOC of 12% and have experience fewer tuning issues than previously when using a lower FOC. But that's me, shooting my bow with my arrow set-up so I can't say that a different FOC percentage won't work well for someone else.

Something I left out of the article was shooting broadheads, getting good straight flight and then moving your sight to match where they hit is another option. Again, broadheads are touchy, I think if you do enough tuning you should be able to get them to hit where your field points hit but if you don't have the time to fine tune and you are getting good broadhead flight, that is the bottom line. It doesn't matter if your field tips and broadheads hit together for hunting, it matters that your broadhead-tipped arrows are hitting where you want them to.

[Powerstroke]

I have a comment for Canucks question....It sounds to me like you ususally shoot 100gr tips. If that is the case and you switched to teh 125 gr heads than it would seem to reason that your 5" drop is due to the heavier broadheads. Have you changed your sight pins since adding the heavier broadheads? If so than I would start with the nock point/rest height adjustments like mentioned in the TIP.

To the general discussion I find that just cause carbons are narrower doesn't mean a lick of difference in the ability to handle broadheads. I think far too many people ignore spine considerations when switching between carbon and aluminum arrows. Since the two are rated in different terms in relation to spine, most people don't have comparable arrows. I have a set of aluminum arrows and a set of carbons and they hit the same spots and they handle the same tips exactly the same too. If your carbons can't handle your heads than you need a stiffer arrow spine...not just a heavy aluminum arrow. Lightweight aluminums will bend and wobble just like a weak carbon if you don't buy the right ones.

[Powerstroke]

oh yeah and I highly recommend the Magnus Stinger 4-blades. They are a cut on contact 2-blade design, but the 4-blade adds a set of smaller "bleeder blades" near the base of the ferrule. I used these last year at the recommendation of a friend and I was extremely impressed. They are extremely sharp out of the box, fly incredible, are very tough, the blades are all replaceable and to top it off they have a full guarentee. If they are dull or they EVER break, send them back. I sent back 2 that I bent when they hit a rock and they set me a new set of 3 free of charge. I'm not trying to abuse the system, I talked to someone at their place about how they recommend I sharpen my blades and he said just ship them in and they will take care of it.

[delmuts]

this thread is kind of quiet, so! my tips for hunting especially a new area are. i bow hunt from the ground only( i don't sit on the ground though . i use a strap on tree seat to keep my line of sight about the brush, and briars in the woods) . all the tips posted about scent control, and the wind are of utmost importance for this!! but , the big advantage of hunting from the ground is mobility! i can move into a area, follow trails to a spot that really good good. find a tree that is down wind, and has another tree or something to help break up my outline. trim a little area around the tree for my feet and clearance for the bow. then sit and watch. if things are moving out of bow range , one can make a quiet move closer. gives you a chance to study the deer movements, for that perfect location ! and you won't believe how close you can get to deer!( examples! have you ever been close enough to a 6 pt. to touch him? lean around a tree to be nose to nose with two fawns,or! be 10 steps from a 140 class 10 pt.[ a friend got him shotgun season!] and blow the shot!) lots of deer with in 10 steps and never know you are there! one other thing. movement is a BIG concern!! you are on thier level! make them slow and carefull.

[Canuck]

TomBow. Question: I found the Montec broadheads in a mag. and I see they are solid non-replacable broadheads. How do U sharpen them or do U use them once like I do with the inserts and chuck them?

I was shooting with a friend today and he couldn't believe how my broadheads flew so different than the field points. I have it zeroed in so WILL NOT change this year. I can consistently hit a one inch square at 20 and 30 yds but it bugs me that the field points shoot so different. I guess SO BE IT.

I like your tip about using the strap on seat at ground level and actually use that for rifle and muzzle as well. The seat fits into my pack and allows me to be mobile.

[TomBow]

I shoot 100 gr. Montecs and 100 gr. broadheads. You should be shooting broadheads that match your field point weights (If you shoot 100 gr. f.p.'s, shoot 100 gr. Broadheads, if you shoot 125 gr. F.P.'s, shoot 125 gr. Broadheads), if you don't already. I have shoot a few different broadheads in the same grain-weights and had different flight results from the same bow. Some broadheads fly better from a certain bow/arrow shaft combination than others, you just don't know how a certain broadhead will fly until you shoot it from YOUR bow with Your arrow shaft. Such is the mystery of Aerodynamics (err, was it ARROW-dynamics?!).

I resharpen my Montec heads on a flat Tri-hone (3 different coarseness on the same unit) and follow the instructions shown in the video on the G5 Outdoors HSOforum. They are not hard to sharpen if you do it the right way. You push the broadheads in a straight line on the stone, making the same number of passes on each side of the head. I have produced razor-sharp, hair-cutting blades using the G5 video techniques. The heads are pricy but reusable and have produced paint-bucket blood trails for me.

Yes, if your bow is zero'd in with the broadheads your shooting and you are shooting with razor-sharp blades, there is no reason to switch over in mind. Straight flying, razor sharp heads are the ultimate venison collector. Best of Luck.

(P.S. Delmuts (sp?) is the person to thank for the great tip on portable seat ground hunting.)

[BLACKJACK]

Delmuts, can you expand on how you set up for ground hunting, like are you sitting with the tree to your back or is the tree ahead of you? Do you try to get back in some brush and clear a shooting lane? Do you ever just set up in tall grass?

[BLACKJACK]

Tombow, interesting info about the Montecs. I've been using the Thunderheads for years and like you said, good passthrus and an ok bloodtrail, if you hit the lung heart area, but I'll have to go do a search on the Montecs.

[delmuts]

i seldom setup in grass. ( i'm older [and FAT!!] so it is hard for me to do!) i try to have something in front of me and behind me.( i.e. ; sitting against a tree with one a yard or two in front.) or using brush,limbs around me . just something to break up my out line more. i have ground blinds in areas ( usually a funnel of some sort!) that i have use for years. i just may have to add some brush and clear the ground out some . one very important thing!!! ALWAYS clear the ground of all leaves and twigs!!! i had to learn that lesson the hard way!( try moving your feet for a shot , with dry leaves, and sticks under them) when you have a deer at 8 yds.!! it don't work!

[Swamp Scooter]

Anyone shooting a trykon and what broadheads do you use? I am using carbon express - stiff arrows, the camo ones - Eliminators. I am going for the bear so wanted to use the 125gr heads. A new set up for me so before dropping the cash on something that might work by trial and error any suggestions? Oh, only shooting about 15 yards max. Should make for some real fun.

[chucker34]

Might not get to post until a little later tomorrow so here goes tonight. To paraphrase Abraham Lincoln, I would have made this a little shorter had I more time.

Archery Tip of the Week (8/16/06): Using a Ground Blind

At least once a year, someone asks the question in the archery forum “why would you use a ground blind instead of a treestand for bow hunting?” After all, getting above your prey and its scent and sight lines makes more sense and would appear to make you more successful. And while this is true in many instances, a ground blind can be just as deadly an option as a treestand in many others.

Maybe you don’t have a suitable tree to hang a treestand in. Maybe there are trees but there’s a good chance you’ll get sky-lined in one of them. Maybe you’re getting older and find a ground blind easier and safer to climb into.

Or maybe, just maybe, you’re like me and realize that a well placed ground blind with the right wind direction can provide you with the thrill of taking a deer up close and personal at eye level.

In this week’s tip, I’ll share some observations from my experiences of using a ground blind to successfully hunt deer.

Is a Ground Blind Right For My Hunting Area?

Pretty much every type of terrain is suited to using a ground blind – from thick timber to field edges and everything in between. Some people even place a blind out in the middle of a soybean field with great results.

But there are two major factors to consider when determining whether a ground blind is right for your hunting area or not – sight and scent.

Perhaps the most important rule in terms of sight is to be able to place the blind in a location where it won’t surprise a deer. You don’t want an old wise doe to turn the corner of a trail and see your ground blind standing right in front of her. I try to place my blinds between 15-20 yards off the trail and never at a point where a deer comes upon it suddenly.

You’ll also hear a lot of guys talk about “brushing in” their blinds. I think this is most important in the woods where you are surrounded by mature trees, saplings, and deadfalls. I try to place my blind among saplings or next to a deadfall and then lay brush and branches all around it and often over the top of it.

Scent is more obvious. Since you are on the ground, you have to be extra careful about being scent free using a ground blind and that means passing on hunting from it on days when the wind is not in your favor. Therefore, it’s nice to be able to place a ground blind in a location where the wind will be in your favor most of the time.

How Do I Go About Choosing A Ground Blind?

First off, let me say that you don’t have to buy a blind. You can choose to make a natural one out of what nature’s already provided. I know a guy that took a 170 class buck from the ground in North Dakota last year by studying the buck’s routine and then hunkering down in a tall draw near a soybean field. He cut small shooting lanes through the weeds and grass and arrowed the buck from less than 10 yards. By the way, he was wearing jeans and a duck hunting coat. Definitely not an advertisement for ScentLok, though he had taken all the proper scent-related precautions minus the fancy duds.

If you do choose to buy a blind, there are a myriad available – from pop-up style blinds that stay upright using a steel hoop structure to hub-style blinds that expand via a sturdy framework of poles. The latter tend to be larger and have more options.

I would not suggest buying a blind unless you can set it up in the store first and practice drawing inside of it to see if it feels comfortable. Depending on your draw length, you’d be surprised at how confining some of the blinds that claim to have “plenty of room for 2 or 3 people bowhunting” can be for just one person.

Once you have determined you are comfortable shooting from a particular style and size of blind, the rest is just choosing which options you like. The most important option to me is having shoot through mesh windows all the way around the blind and window flaps that can be opened and closed silently from the inside as needed during the hunt. The second most important option to me is not having an outer covering material that shines like a Las Vegas marquis when the sun hits it.

How Should I Set Up My Ground Blind?

Once you’ve picked the right blind, take it home and practice shooting out of it before actually hunting. Set the blind up in your back yard and shoot through a mesh window you don’t plan on using too often at a 3d target. You’ll want to practice using broadheads to see how the mesh affects them. I’ve never had a problem with fixed-blades hitting their mark through the mesh, though I’ve heard cut-on-contact are most accurate through mesh and that you shouldn’t use expandables. Also, practice shooting from sitting, kneeling, crouched, and even standing positions if applicable. After you’ve mastered this, you’re ready to set it up in the field.

I try to set my blinds up at least a few weeks prior to the first hunt since I am mostly hunting on private land. It gives the deer a chance to get used to the blind and think it is part of the natural landscape. But I have set my blinds up on the same day on WMAs and seen deer shortly afterward. All deer are different. Some may be spooked into leaving but many others will just be a little leery the first time they see it and continue on their normal travel path.

It is also important to rake away any debris from the inside of the blind so you are absolutely silent when moving within the blind. And then brush the blind in as described above and cut any shooting lanes needed around the blind.

Also, remember to bring a comfortable stool, bucket, or folding chair as it makes all the difference in being able to hunt longer.

How Do I Hunt From a Ground Blind?

I get a kick out of all the ground blind photos in the hunting catalogs. In many instances, all of the windows are open and the hunter is at full draw inside. If you try that while hunting, you might as well build a screened in gazebo in the woods and enjoy a glass of lemonade instead. Because the deer will see you for sure if you’re not absolutely still.

The better way to go about it is to open a few select windows that are most likely to allow you to take a shot. The inside of the blind stays dark and your shadowy presence is much less noticeable if not invisible to the deer – especially if you’re wearing all black, which will blend in nicely with the interior coating of any blind. Camo that matches the rest of the blind works nicely too, however.

It will be important to take scent and wind direction into account as described above as well as noise. This is why I love the silent windows that open and shut from the inside. Its very easy to make adjustments as necessary when you see a deer approaching from the distance.

Ground blinds definitely have their place in whitetail deer hunting. While I like my treestands, I find I am liking my ground blinds more and more. They are a safe, convenient, and quick way to fit in an after-work hunt and a quiet, easy way to hunt near a bedding area in the morning.

Ground blind users, please post additional tips as I’m sure I left a lot out!!!

[TomBow]

Swamp==the buddy of mine that turned me on to the Montecs is now shooting a Trykon, also and I am sure that the Montecs will be his head of choice.

Generally speaking, I've heard some comments about them being hard to sharpen, which I have not found to be the case. The blades are angled so you lay the head on a stone and sharpen two blade edges at a time, then flip the head to the next two blade edges and repeat. What you are basically doing is taking a very tiny amount of metal off the blades, pushing a microscopic burr over to the edge of the blade not touching the stone, then work it off when you rotate the head to the second and third set of blade edges. The tip of the head when sharp is a needle point which starts the cutting when the broadhead hits the target (cut-on-contact) which makes it easier for the rest of the blade edges to do more cutting. The tip starts the hole and the rest of the blades do the rest. Traditional shooters use cut-on-contact heads primarily because they have considerable less KE (penetration energy) than compound shooters. I have been shooting a recurve since the beginning of the year and the recurve produces about half the KE compared to my compound. Many trad. shooters get pass through shots because they use cut-on-contact heads. That's why I figured that these heads are the way to go with a compound. I'd rather have the energy to get pass throughs every time because the exit wound equals more blood on the ground and an easier-to-follow blood trail. If I make a hit on a deer, I want to maximize the odds in my favor that I am going to find that deer, which is why we all hunt, right? We are out there to bring venison home in the most efficient manner that we can because we respect the animals we hunt and want a quick, clean kill. That's my point of view, anyway. I have confidence in the Montecs so that's what I use and they haven't given me any doubt that I've made the right choice. Bottom line with equipment choices for me is, if I have confidence in a particular equipment item, bow, arrow shafts, broadheads, etc., then that's what goes to the woods with me.

Best of Luck to all,

TomBow

(only a few weekends left)

[Deitz Dittrich]

Great stuff Chucker!!!!!... Thanks for the tips.. I had to hunt out of a ground blind for a few weeks year before last(I broke my leg playing basketball and couldnt climb a tree) I wish I had that tip before I tried it... I wasn't very good from the blind!!!

Harvey is next week!!!!

[chucker34]

Thanks Deitz. I know a lot of guys just don't think a ground blind can be as effective as a treestand. But I'd disagree based on experiences (deer sightings within bow shot) in my first year using them last year. You just have to take a lot more precautions on the ground. You can even buy a cheap pop-up for $60 when they go on sale to see if you like it and then upgrade when you decide you do. This is what I did.