Fish House Build

[Bum]

Been reading on here for a couple years now and following others build threads that motivated me to build my own, so posting this to hopefully motivate someone like me to get started on their own! Started it this summer and put it aside for too long but but back at it.

It’s a 8x14 +2’V. Here’s some pics

Bought the frame from a guy on hsolist for a pretty good price last winter. 

coated with a rust remover and then herculiner

Spray foamed the floor but put 1” foam over the frame to hopefully keep from having cold spots, didn’t put foam across it all as I’d rather have the spray foam attached to the floor ply than foam insul. 3/4” plywood for the floor.

2x3 studs for the walls

Even though I spray foamed the inside, decided for whatever reason to put 1/4” ply up. Doing it again i would probably leave that out to save a little weight.

Pro rib steel with 2’ diamond plate. HDPE in the wheel wells.

Rubber roof

Sprayed it myself with a kit. Thought it turned out pretty well but a few areas didn’t get it as thick as I wanted. I’ll be putting a layer of the fiberglass insul behind the paneling to fill the studs completely.

Here’s where it’s at today. I’ll be installing the rubber floor and finishing up the wiring today.

 

Plenty of work left but it’s starting to look like a fish house! Thanks for reading along and I’ll try post updates as it goes from here. Hoping for two weeks from today to be done with everything!

[leech~~]

Bum, Welcome to the forum.

Nice work on the house. I like your seat pads. Did you have someone make them or just luck out and find them some where?  It's really going to look nice when finished. 

I've always wanted to build my own house as well. If I had the time, and patience, and skills, and money, and space, and tools, and a different wife!!  

Good Luck with the rest of the build.  

[Bum]

Leech, I hear you! I actually got the dinette cushions on hsolist for what I thought was a reasonable price, I’m really excited about them too! 

trailer lights put on and new wheels

my dad used to install floor covering in his younger days so he was a huge help with this part. 

Have the next few days off of work so should be able to get a decent amount done this week!

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

On 11/26/2017 at 9:17 AM, Bum said:

 

 

This is a super good idea! 

[Hawg]

Nope, the plywood grain should run the other way, shouldn't it? Also, why doesn't the plywood go to the edge of the frame? More strength.

Edited November 27, 2017 by Hawg

[leech~~]

12 minutes ago, Hawg said:

Also, why doesn't the plywood go to the edge of the frame? More strength.

Not finished yet?

Edited November 27, 2017 by leech~~

[Bum]

5 hours ago, Hawg said:

Nope, the plywood grain should run the other way, shouldn't it? Also, why doesn't the plywood go to the edge of the frame? More strength.

Yes, it should go the other way. Didn’t even really think about it until I had already fastened it down. But it’s 3/4” so if there’s any flex it’s pretty minimal. And the ply does go to the edges, whoever made the frame made it 8’3 wide so there’s 1-1/2” on each side filled in with scrap. 

Got the lights hooked up tonight, should start paneling tomorrow!

Edited November 28, 2017 by Bum

[Blackhawkxp]

Looks good but i did notice something on your lights.  I believe that you need 3 lights in the middle top on the rear of your shack.  I am not 100% sure but i thought i would mention it before you finished just in case you need them.  I didn't look up the law in MN but here is a snippet from a quick online search.

Wide Trailers

Trailers that are more than 80 inches wide must be equipped with additional lighting on the front and rear to indicate the trailer's width. Two red rear clearance lights must be placed at the trailer's widest point, as far apart and as high as possible. Three red identification lights must be centered on the back of the trailer, spread between 6 and 12 inches apart, and placed as high as possible. Front clearance lights must be placed as high and as far forward as possible, at the trailer's widest point.

Edited November 28, 2017 by Blackhawkxp

[Bum]

Blackhawk, wish I had read that earlier as I won’t be tearing it apart now! Seems like a pretty petite thing though and I’d be surprised if most LEO would give a ticket for that, I guess I’ll find out. It’ll only be on the road twice a year though.

 

Here’s what I got done today! Really happy with the looks of it so far. Adding the fiberglass insul behind to fill the studs so should hold heat nicely! 

 

[leech~~]

3 minutes ago, Bum said:

Blackhawk, wish I had read that earlier as I won’t be tearing it apart now! Seems like a pretty petite thing though and I’d be surprised if most LEO would give a ticket for that, I guess I’ll find out. It’ll only be on the road twice a year though.

 

Here’s what I got done today! Really happy with the looks of it so far. Adding the fiberglass insul behind to fill the studs so should hold heat nicely! 

 

Just find a magnetic red light and slap her on he back on long drives home! 

[Blackhawkxp]

12 hours ago, Bum said:

Blackhawk, wish I had read that earlier as I won’t be tearing it apart now! Seems like a pretty petite thing though and I’d be surprised if most LEO would give a ticket for that, I guess I’ll find out. It’ll only be on the road twice a year though.

 

Here’s what I got done today! Really happy with the looks of it so far. Adding the fiberglass insul behind to fill the studs so should hold heat nicely! 

 

I was hoping to catch you before you had the interior done.  I wouldn't be too worried about it but i thought i would point it out just in case you had a chance to add them.  

Edited November 29, 2017 by Blackhawkxp

[Hawg]

I didn't know that either, I better find some magnetic battery operated ones. Sure don't want to have a beer with lunch and run into a LEO or Warden on a mission from God!

[Blackhawkxp]

 

[Moon Lake Refuge]

Some of them definitely will tag for the center lights.If you plan to trim the top at all I would tie into a marker light and run it along the top corner back to the trim and pop it through if you can.  Hate to have to go back at the end.  At a minimum throw some reflectors out there or something if you can.

[leech~~]

Not saying you shouldn't do it right. But, I have seen a ton of home made pieces of craap plywood boxes as ice houses going down the road with only two rear trailer lights thrown on the back of them.  I'm sure some of them get dinged. At least throw a reflector up there. 

Go on C/List and you will see an amazing selection of home made houses and some how they go down the road with next to no side or back marker lighting!

Example.

 

Edited November 30, 2017 by leech~~

[Bum]

Gonna go with leech’s advice and do the magnetic light. It’ll be a good summer project to add the other light. 

 

Didn’t get to work on it today but got a bit more done yesterday.

[Hawg]

I’ve been looking for magnetic battery operated lights and all I can find is temp trailer light that are pretty expensive when you need 6-8. Anyone know where to get them. Even adhesive stick on ones would work. I might just use reflectors. 

[Bum]

1 hour ago, Hawg said:

I’ve been looking for magnetic battery operated lights and all I can find is temp trailer light that are pretty expensive when you need 6-8. Anyone know where to get them. Even adhesive stick on ones would work. I might just use reflectors. 

[gunner55]

Harbor Freight has a magnetic towing light set(2) that's < $20, right now

Edited December 1, 2017 by gunner55

[Hawg]

 Thanks guys, I would really like to find some real cheap battery stick on ones or ones that I could Velcro because they really don’t take much abuse if you just use going and coming on the hiway

[Bum]

Picking away at it a little each day. 120V system is done and works, 12v system is mostly done but have to install the outlets and the stereo/speakers, then go get the batteries, probably two AGMs. Thinking of moving the speakers to the V below the counter so I don’t have to build boxes for them on the ceiling and I didn’t wire them how I should have, so now trying to decide if I want to cover the ceiling holes where the speaker wires are dangling or put a small light in each of the 4. Seems a bit excessive so might just cover them.

Countertops will be simple, just 1x’s stained and finish nailed on. Same with the table for the dinette. Still have to install the furnace as well. Then the bunks and the small finishing touches will be last. Hoping by the end of the coming weekend it is competely ready for the lake! 

[Hawg]

You can buy standard size countertops off the shelf at Menards that look very good. Probably easier and better looking than  finishing 1x’s. 

[aczr2k]

What I did for speakers in the ceiling was get two 1" thick rings made for each speaker and fastened them together it made enough depth so I didn't have to cut into the ceiling insulation.  I wrapped the ring in 3M black carbon fiber vinyl since it matches the black diamond plate theme in my house.  I didn't want to loose the insulation in the roof by cutting a speaker hole.  Any real stereo shop can easily make them for you, unless you have a router stand.  I bought mine from "e" bay custom made to the inner and outside dimensions I wanted for less than the price of sheet of mdf. 

Edited December 5, 2017 by aczr2k

[leech~~]

On Thursday, November 30, 2017 at 9:49 PM, Bum said:

Gonna go with leech’s advice and do the magnetic light. It’ll be a good summer project to add the other light.

 

Didn’t get to work on it today but got a bit more done yesterday.

 

Hey how do you like the Flexzilla Air Hose?  I used one at a Holiday gas station a few weeks ago and could not believe how light and flexible it was. I think they would good in cold weather for the garage.

[Bum]

3 hours ago, leech~~ said:

Hey how do you like the Flexzilla Air Hose?  I used one at a Holiday gas station a few weeks ago and could not believe how light and flexible it was. I think they would good in cold weather for the garage.

Worth every penny! Usually go on sale every once in awhile too.