Accuracy at different ranges - confused!

[WyoChris]

I am new to archery, finally making the jump from gun hunting to bow hunting. Last week I bought a PSE Stinger.

Went out to the range today (usually try and go with a experienced archer, but was by myself today) and was shooting at a bag at about 10 yards. It was a block with about 12 small circles on it. Everytime I shot at a circle, my arrows would land directly to the left about 6 inches or so. I thought I was just pulling the bow, so I really focused on that loose grip as not to jerk the bow.... but I was still getting shot groups to the left of the target.

I thought maybe my sight was off... however, before deciding to adjust it, I decided to shoot a few arrows at a wild boar decoy sitting between 30 and 40 yards. Surprisingly, all 3 arrows landed right on.... all within about a paper plate size shot group and right on target. They did not pull to the left at all. I continued to shoot this target again and the same thing; arrows were not pulling at all.

Since i'm new at archery, what causes this? Why do I pull to the left at 10 yards, but don't at 30-40 yards? I'm assuming it has something to do with depth perception and my sight picture at the different distances.... what do you think? and how do I replicate it so I can be hitting bullseyes at 10 yrds?

Thanks

Chris

[Archerysniper]

My guess would be punching the realease or anchoring tighter or farther away from you face you could also have been not holding the bow level. You could also have a issue with the fleatching hitting something on your bow and the arrow can't correct itself by the ten yard target.

[DonBo]

I think AS hit it right on the head. You're probably not holding the bow straight up and down. Try a site with a bubble level on it and I think that issue will go away.

[gr8icefishinmind]

Another good idea would be to paper tune your bow to make sure that your arrows are flying straight and not croocked!! Also make sure you are following through on your shot and not hitting the trigger and pulling away to see where you hit! Keep aiming even after you pull the trigger!! just a couple thoughts......

[buckhunter21]

I would follow gr8's advice and get it paper tuned right away, Im guessing your arrow is flying crooked and at 10 yards doesnt have time to straighten itself out. Might be as simple as moving your rest a little bit one way or the other.

[redlund]

X3

on the paper tuning. Also once you have it paper tuned you can check it and do fine tuning by doing "walk back tuning". Do a search for how to do that.... and you will be dialed in.

[Deitz Dittrich]

X3 on making sure everything is in tune.. although, to me it sounds like you could be putting some torque on the grip. by the longer distance the arrow has been able to stabilize. Check also that you are level on the bow, make sure you are not canting it. Could also be an arrow spine issue.. as well as a rest clearance issue.

[eyeguy 54]

paper tune time, just google how to do it. might be as simple as moving the rest a bit to the right.

[Nate McVey]

As silly as this may sound, not many people I know shoot deer at 10 yards and I wouldn't concern myself with it (IMHO). If you have a good group at the distance that you are "planning" to shoot a deer (trail, scrape, bait pile or food plot) I wouldn't worry about it too much, again IMHO.

[gr8icefishinmind]

As silly as this may sound, not many people I know shoot deer at 10 yards and I wouldn't concern myself with it (IMHO). If you have a good group at the distance that you are "planning" to shoot a deer (trail, scrape, bait pile or food plot) I wouldn't worry about it too much, again IMHO.

That is true but he obviously has a problem with something on the bow and it doesn't hurt to check it all over and make it right! Paper tune it and let us know how it shot through the paper!!

[gurkster]

Chris - I would go to the shop I bought the bow at and have them paper tune it and watch you shoot. I assume that you had them setup you bow when you bought it. They will be able to help with so many things that it could be. Really hard to say, but talking with an expert and having them help you get started will teach you tons and get you up and going faster than you probably could on your own. Good Luck!!

[buckhunter21]

As silly as this may sound, not many people I know shoot deer at 10 yards and I wouldn't concern myself with it (IMHO). If you have a good group at the distance that you are "planning" to shoot a deer (trail, scrape, bait pile or food plot) I wouldn't worry about it too much, again IMHO.

This may be true but you have to think about what is going to happen when he puts broadheads on (especially fixed) if that arrow is coming out sideways its instantly going to starting catching air and throw his arrows all over the place. I definitely feel alot better knowing my arrows are flying straight so when I switch to broadheads I dont have to deal with the frustration of not hitting exactly where I want the arrow to go.

[Powerstroke]

I would have to completely disagree with shiner about 10yds. I shot 7 deer over 3 years before I finally shot a deer farther than 20 yds. Almost all of my bow shots are in the 10-15yd range. Thats what bowhunting is about.

I would also be thinking about the arrow spine issue if its not a rest problem.

Good luck.

[InTheNorthwoods]

TUNE YOUR BOW! Once you put broadheads on your arrows you will likely be shooting far worse as problems are exacerbated.

Paper tuning is probably the fastest way for a new archer to get the arrow to come off the bow properly (and hopefully shooting well for you). The first thing I'd do is check for, and elimnate, fletch contact. After fletch contact you will just have to follow the Easton tuning guide.

If you aren't comfortable doing this yourself, take it to a bow shop. It is too close to the season to not trust your equipment. A bow shop may charge you a little money but they will be able to help you get it set up properly and you will likely learn watching.

[iabhtr]

Paper tuning is a good place to start ( and thats all its good for is a starting place unless you have perfect spine , center shot etc ) , followed by walk back tuning .

If you arent familiar with walkback tuning here is a short and simple version :

Make sure you have a backstop that has some height ot it , use your top pin only during this tuning session , put up a target near the top of your bale and using your top pin shoot 1 arrow at the spot at 10 yds , step back to 15 yds still using your top pin and aiming at the same spot and shoot an arrow , step back to 20 - same thing , again at 25 and at 30 , if you still have room at the bottom of the bale you could shoot again at 35

What you are trying for here is a perfectly vertical string of arrows and this is for a right handed shooter , opposite for a lefty

if your group looks like this ( your rest is out to far

if your group looks like this ) your rest is in to far

if your group looks like this / your arrows are to stiff for your set up , use heavier points , increase your poundage , shoot a little longer arrows of the same spine

if your group looks like this \ your arrow is acting weak , lighten your tip weight , or lower your poundage , shorten your arrows

This assumes that your shooting form is not part of the equation , canting the bow can and will cause left to right issues also , you can use a level and bubble the bow straight , for some that is an uncomfortable way to shoot , many shoot with a natural cant ( myself included ) couple ways to make this work for you , if your sight has 2nd and/or 3rd axis adjustment find something ( even if you hang a rope or something similar from a door frame with a weight on the bottom ie. a blumb bob to give yourself a perfectly vertical aiming line ) hold the bow naturally , draw it and see if your pins line up with the string/rope , or whatever you are using , if your pins line up with the string you are in good shape , if not and your sight is not adjustable in either of the axis plains I mentioned you can loosen your sight and shim under either the bottom of the sight attachment or the top , whichever it taked to angle your sight so that it mirrors the string you are aiming at while at full draw

If you follow this tuning set up , you WILL get rid of your left - right arrows , unless form is the reason , punching the release , to short or long of a draw are all things that can also add to the problem , your back elbow should be directly in line with your bow hand and the tip of the arrow then concentrate on falling straight back with your release hand when the shot goes off , if you are aiming at the target and upon release your bow hand moves towards the target and your release hand moves straight back from the target , your arrow has no choice but to also go straight at the target .......... there are other things that can cause issues , but that is enough to digest at one time , hope you get it straightened out , this tuning should also have your broadheads flying true and impacting with your field points which gets us to broad head tuning ..... but that another subject

[BLACKJACK]

Paper tuning is a good place to start ( and thats all its good for is a starting place unless you have perfect spine , center shot etc ) , followed by walk back tuning .

If you arent familiar with walkback tuning here is a short and simple version :

Make sure you have a backstop that has some height ot it , use your top pin only during this tuning session , put up a target near the top of your bale and using your top pin shoot 1 arrow at the spot at 10 yds , step back to 15 yds still using your top pin and aiming at the same spot and shoot an arrow , step back to 20 - same thing , again at 25 and at 30 , if you still have room at the bottom of the bale you could shoot again at 35

What you are trying for here is a perfectly vertical string of arrows and this is for a right handed shooter , opposite for a lefty

if your group looks like this ( your rest is out to far

if your group looks like this ) your rest is in to far

if your group looks like this / your arrows are to stiff for your set up , use heavier points , increase your poundage , shoot a little longer arrows of the same spine

if your group looks like this \ your arrow is acting weak , lighten your tip weight , or lower your poundage , shorten your arrows

This assumes that your shooting form is not part of the equation , canting the bow can and will cause left to right issues also , you can use a level and bubble the bow straight , for some that is an uncomfortable way to shoot , many shoot with a natural cant ( myself included ) couple ways to make this work for you , if your sight has 2nd and/or 3rd axis adjustment find something ( even if you hang a rope or something similar from a door frame with a weight on the bottom ie. a blumb bob to give yourself a perfectly vertical aiming line ) hold the bow naturally , draw it and see if your pins line up with the string/rope , or whatever you are using , if your pins line up with the string you are in good shape , if not and your sight is not adjustable in either of the axis plains I mentioned you can loosen your sight and shim under either the bottom of the sight attachment or the top , whichever it taked to angle your sight so that it mirrors the string you are aiming at while at full draw

If you follow this tuning set up , you WILL get rid of your left - right arrows , unless form is the reason , punching the release , to short or long of a draw are all things that can also add to the problem , your back elbow should be directly in line with your bow hand and the tip of the arrow then concentrate on falling straight back with your release hand when the shot goes off , if you are aiming at the target and upon release your bow hand moves towards the target and your release hand moves straight back from the target , your arrow has no choice but to also go straight at the target .......... there are other things that can cause issues , but that is enough to digest at one time , hope you get it straightened out , this tuning should also have your broadheads flying true and impacting with your field points which gets us to broad head tuning ..... but that another subject

Good post iabhtr!!! Lots of good advice!! I copied it off to a Word document. I'd never heard of that 'walk back tuning', I'm going to have to try that!!!

[InTheNorthwoods]

Good post iabhtr!!! Lots of good advice!! I copied it off to a Word document. I'd never heard of that 'walk back tuning', I'm going to have to try that!!!

Another resource is the Easton Tuning Guide. It contains written instructions and illustrations on how to paper tune, walk back tune, and broadhead tune. A person can download it and print it from several places on the internet if you do a simple search.

[WyoChris]

This is all great advice, I appreciate it. Was going to try iabhtr's advice today, but my peep sight popped out after the 3rd shot. Looks like i'll have to run down to the bow shop tomorrow to have them iron it back in.