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RebelSS

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Put a new plug in the auger, honed the blades, mixed some premium gas & syn. oil, and fired the pup up. Second pull...ran great from idle to WOT. Then I smelled the gas & felt my hand all wet..what the?!? Gas leaking from the tank/fuel line/ grommet. To make a long story short, ordered a new tank assembly, grommet, and fuel lines. ($21.00)Spoke for quite some time with the good people at Ardisam..tech told me they're having a lot of problems with that due to the ethanol in the gas attacking the grommets and tank gaskets. Duh...I knew that..been working on engines since the 70's,especially boat engines, and I see it a lot...but I didn't even think to apply it to MY stuff! So...check your seals & gaskets!

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Good reminder. I started buying non oxygenated fuel for all my toys this past year to cut down on the ethanol issues. You need to walk in the store backwards to pay for it but you don't really go through all that much during the year.

I also try to remember to bring a gas can with me when I visit another state such as South Dakota where you get the choice at the pump if you want to use ethanol or not. That way you don't have to pay for premium gas.

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My father in law owns a small engine, chain store etc shop, he has shown me jars of gas taken from engines and let them set and then see how the gas and water separate,, I always use non oxygenated fuel in all my toys, lawn mower, outboard, chain saw you name it with an engine and i use the non oxygenated fuel except my vehicles and he trying to convince me to burn it them also

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grpd: I pulled apart my (new) 2 year old boat carbs a couple years back due to hesitation/mid range bog. The diaphragms already had developed pinholes in them from the lousy gas.I know what you're saying! I'm just really upset (more at myself)that I now had to order a tank/fuel-grommet assembly for a 4 yr old auger! Tell me: Where do you and Sutty find true non-oxy gas?! I'll head there right after I install my new parts!

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broken line: I would if I could...that's why I'm asking...can't seem to find any in SE Minnesota. Even went on the home page of MSMA to find a location...page was no longer available. If anyone could help me on this, I'd greatly appreciate it. I've thrown this back & forth with my other motorhead buddies..the E-85 alcohol debate, higher burn temps,degradation of rubber/petroleum based sealants, etc. What I do find intersesting is in talking to Ardisam Techs today, they did recommend Seafoam to counter act this problem.Many other sites do recommend this also. Guess I've always been more of a believer in sheduled inspection/maintenance. After our chat, I AM going to give their opinion a try.

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Let me say ...Thanks! To all of you!And welcome, staresatice!I went to school with the Throndsons...should have thought of that...was kinda wondering about FF...and magicstix, I did! Also re-torqued the headbolts & carb mount studs. That's what I like about this site...different opinions, yet everyone is willing to help each other achieve the same goal. We all are in it for FISH! If no one else will say it, I will: A great big family helping each other! Thanks again! Rebel :-)

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I am in the south metro and we have it at fleet farm as others have mentioned and at the Mobil station in Apple Valley. Last time I was in Iowa they were like SD and gave you a choice if you ever wander that way.

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I took to running the Marine Blue formula StaBil in all my mixed fuels to help combat this concern. You never really know if your getting some ethanol formulated fuel in the mix, so I don't take the risk.

The Marine Blue is formulated to stabilize and combat the complications that arise from ethanol based fuels and so far after a few years of running it my engines are running flawlessly. The extra fuel system cleaners in the Blue is noticeable, my augers have never ran better, or my outboards.

Some fuel lines and gaskets are especially sensitive to ethanol fuels so in my case I replaced all my fuel lines on my older boats motors with ethanol friendly lines...just in case. I'm surprised a modern ice auger manufacturer would not have seen that complication and headed it off before it became an issue.

A Good topic.

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jimalm-As a former member of MSMA, that's what I did last night..but the page came up as "No longer available"..refreshing didn't help. And Ed..I've been using the Stabil Marine(or blue)in my boat and auger, and I agree with you. After doing a LOT of internet research ALL day today on Ethanol, now I find myself at a crossroads: Use premuim fuel with Marine Stabil, (As you stated) Seafoam (As Ardisam told me to use) or go buy the non-0xy fuel which, thanks to all of you that helped, is available to me in my area. My initial thoughts after removing my tank and fuel grommet is that the grommet did dry up a tad, compounded by a tiny hairline tank crack. Lines are good. So...?

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Ed..Just missed your reply. That's exactly what I've been doing & what I thought..high end premium & Marine Stabil. I always run my engines dry at the end of the season, fog the carbs & the top end. I then drain the fuel bowl(s), and spray pure silicone on the lines and rubber so they don't degrade. An isolated incident on my auger? I'd like to hear from others if this has happened to them, although I have seen it in some boat engines I tune up. But the small amountof gas running through an auger? Hmmm...I'm stuck!

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Ed I started using the Blue Stabil as well and noticed my boat runs better when at slower speeds and no hick ups. I also started running ring free every other tank and man did that make a difference. Pricey as He11 but worth it. Cheaper than motor work thats for sure.

Im also with DTRO. I run only non Oxy in all my motors except my truck. Ill run it in the truck once every 4 tanks or so.

My boat is my life in soft water times so I make sure to take care of it.

My truck is old and has well over 200 thousand miles on it. I think its because of the good gas I use and the fact I have it maintained regularly. Take care of the toys and they will take care of you.

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