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Transducer in seperate hole?


jbird68

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If it is deep enough and the cone angle extends far enough out, I will just slide the 'ducer into the next hole or into a hole cut deep into the ice but not all the way through. In some cases, like if I don't cut straight down with the auger, or the ice is clouded up, or I can't cut close enough to the first hole, then I will just use the hole I'm fishing in. If I did my math right, on my LX-5, it is 1.5 feet diameter for every 10 feet of depth, so you don't have a lot of wiggle room for moving that cone when you fish anywhere under 15 feet.

You can lose too many fish with the 'ducer in the same hole. Bluegills spin, crappies have papermouths, walleyes and pike like to leverage against anything they can find to pop the hook....too many ways to lose fish with a 'ducer in the same hole.

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When I am shacked up in the Fish Trap, the transducer is usually down a seperate hole. More so, when I am on a productive spot and am fishing it for an extended period of time.

But, 99 percent of the time, I am hole hopping and use the transducer down the same hole. Personally, I use Vexilar products, and when I am doing this I set my transducer just under the water using either the eye bolt or setting the float high in the hole too. Keeping the 'ducer in the middle of the hole, even in thick ice, I am still able to see my lure well in the water column. Will always have a bit of surface clutter on the top of the screen, but not a lot. And keeping the ducer high in the hole, I am able to move it out of the way more quickly then if I have the 'ducer at the bottom of the hole. Another great thing about this is that then when you go to the next hole, you dont have 5 feet of cord hanging out and dragging behind you.

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I almost never put my transducer in a seperate hole, I like to hole hop and move around and don't want to be drilling extra holes. In my portable we usually have 2 flashers going, so that'd be two extra holes. I run my transducer high in the water in the center of the hole, or put it tight to the edge of hte hole, and don't have much problem with fish tangling in it.

Also, I usually don't want to mark both my baits on my flasher. I like just marking the one I'm actively jigging. If there's a fish there that I can't get to bite I might bounce my deadstick a little, but for the most part I really don't want to be marking my deadstick bait plus the one I'm jigging.

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I always fish with my Ducer in the same hole. Remember regardless of which brand you are using the strength of signal is determined not only by size but also distance from the center of the cone. By not fishing out of the same hole you are compromising a lot of detailed information your flasher can give you. I am so particular about this that I put the ice arm of my LX-5 as close to the center of the hole as I can. The distance across the cone in 15 feet of water with my 20 degree ducer is 5.28 feet. Moving that ducer over even 8” above the ice drastically changes the information I rely on. This is increasingly important in shallow water. Here is the equation for determining the distance across your cone.

Take ½ the cone angle hit the Tangent (TAN) button times the depth of the water column times 2

So if you were using the 20 degree ducer in 15 feet of water the equation would be:

10 (tan) x 15 x 2 = 5.28

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I usually am moving around too much to drill extra holes for a ducer... If I am planning on staying put for a while, I dont see why you shouldnt drill an extra hole.

I'm with Deitz on this one. If you are mobil, go with the one hole, but if I sit in my shack for a while the I'll drill a hole just for the ducer.

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I always fish with my Ducer in the same hole. Remember regardless of which brand you are using the strength of signal is determined not only by size but also distance from the center of the cone. By not fishing out of the same hole you are compromising a lot of detailed information your flasher can give you. I am so particular about this that I put the ice arm of my LX-5 as close to the center of the hole as I can. The distance across the cone in 15 feet of water with my 20 degree ducer is 5.28 feet. Moving that ducer over even 8” above the ice drastically changes the information I rely on. This is increasingly important in shallow water. Here is the equation for determining the distance across your cone.

Take ½ the cone angle hit the Tangent (TAN) button times the depth of the water column times 2

So if you were using the 20 degree ducer in 15 feet of water the equation would be:

10 (tan) x 15 x 2 = 5.28

Very true. Guys that use their flashers on the front of the boat for open-water use know this all too well. In rough conditions, it can become tough to monitor your bait as the boat swings the ducer away from being directly over the bait.

I don't fish with it in the exact center of the hole, rather I put the ice arm of my LX-5 and ducer cord up tight against one side of the hole, and then jig towards that edge of the hole. That way, I have less tangling issues and have the entire ice-hole to play a fish thru. All of which could be corrected by clearing the ducer, but I'm typically not that coordinated, esp. with a big fish on! smile

Joel

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Originally Posted By: The_King48
just pull the transducer out after you set the hook..

Just 1 more pain in the butt and why mess with it when you dont have to? Ill stick with the 3rd hole.

Not an option in a wheel house... I guess I don't think its to hard to pull out of the hole...

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Just 1 more pain in the butt and why mess with it when you dont have to? Ill stick with the 3rd hole.

Personally, I think drilling a 3rd hole (or a second, for that matter) is a MUCH bigger pain than pulling the 'ducer out whenever I hook a fish. Why would I mess with a 3rd hole when I don't have to. I'd much rather have a fish tangle in the 'ducer in the same hole where I can lift both out at the same time, than have a fish coming up 1 hole tangle around a 'ducer in a different hole. I can't exactly reach under the ice to unwrap the two.

-Munchy

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