WOOHOO trying something new!!

[JigginIsLife]

Well i think im going to dive into Bow Hunting this deer season and im here (mostly becuase i trust most peoples opinion on here more than others) to find out what i need, where would be a good place to start with pretty much everything. Im a college kid (low on $$ at the moment) but later durring the summer when i get some moola i will be buying my bow so what im asking here is:

SOme decent kinds of bows and possibly where to buy them

Scents, scent covers, clothes, camo , camo patters.

What are some tricks of the trade, other things to look out for,

What to avoid, and some things that i can do to prepare myself for the up comming season.

Thanks if anything cant be posted on here my email addy is in my profile.

jig

[Deitz Dittrich]

Jigg-

Might I suggest you hit a good proshop and ask questions and get fitted for a bow. Shoot as many as you can, and find out what feels good for you... Then maybe keep your eye out for used gear.

Just about all companies make a good quality bow.. Hoyt, Bowtech, Mathews, Martin, PSE, seem to be the top of the heap now.

Camo is camo.. Its all good.

If I have any advice.. Get the bow as soon as you can and begin to pratice!... Its not like picking up a rifle and nocking put bullseyes at 100 yards.. archery takes quite a bit of practice.

[Powerstroke]

I will start with a small list of the required items.

Bow, arrows, quiver, shooting release, broadheads. That is the short list, Technically you will need nothing more.

If you're a deer hunter you should have the basics of that in mind. When bowhunting, scent control is the key to everything. You will never outsmart a deer without managing your scent. You may get lucky, but to outsmart them, you need to minimize your scent and play the wind.

Camo clothes are somewhat of a personal choice. I've come to think they aren't nearly as important as some people think. I think the best patterns don't have "realistic leaves and twigs". Most agree you want good void spaces and contrast of light and dark.

Having a facemask or headnet is good, but many people still use paint. I just prefer to take the net off when I feel like it.

I think rubber boots are a good idea. I've learned that there are two types of rubber boots. Some cost $40 and the rest cost $100. You get what you pay for. Buy in the $100 range and get something that fits well. Get insulation if you need it. I killed two pairs of $40 boots before I realized I was throwing money away.

All the archery gear is hard to say. There are many good companies and most of the stuff can be bought used with a little homework and you will still get a quality item. I started archery 3 years ago and last fall was the first time I bought something new. All my arrows, broadheads, my bow and accessories were bought used. I saved hundreds$$.

If your bow doesn't come loaded, it will need a sight, rest, stabilizer, and maybe a wrist sling. You can also add sound-dampening stuff to the strings and cables.

[imhooked]

Lots of good advice here.

Remember, "KISS."

Too many folks try to sell you alot of extras that you may not need.

Don't bother with carbon clothes.

I have shot many a deer with just US Army fatigues in Woodland.

Watch the wind.

And despite the popular misconception, deer can be killed without treestands.

I use both.

If you want some good cover scent, get the HS Specialties Scent wafers.

They can be reused and are recharged by placing back into the containers after each use.

Good luck and you will get hooked.

I'm hooked.

[charliepete2]

Spend the money on the bow. High tech camo and carbon suits just aren't necessary. I've shot deer from 10 yards wearing full blaze orange. Staying still and breaking up your outline is really what counts. Wash what ever camo you have in scent free detergent, dry it on a line outside, and keep it in a waterproof bag until right before you walk into the woods. Don't wear it in the truck, don't wear it at the shack, keep it scent free. I have a lot of bad tree stands. They all squeak and pop at the wrong time. I would have saved myself a lot of money if I would have bought a Lone Wolf Alpha Treestand right off the bat.

Buy that bow as soon as possible and start shooting it. Don't set the poundage any higher than you can pull while sitting flat with your butt on the ground. Lots of folks can't even pull back the bow the first time they get a deer in range. One of the hardest things about bowhunting is drawing the bow while and animal is close without being detected. The best way to do this is by having a smooth draw that doesn't take a lot of movement. If you have to point the bow in the air in order to draw it back, your shooting too much weight.

Make sure that you practice in your hunting clothes with broadheads in hunting situations. Your accuracy on a range in a t-shirt with field points is a lot different thant sitting in a tree stand with a coat on shooting broadheads. Make sure you keep some broadheads just for practice. Don't dull your broadheads on a target and then shoot them at a deer. Sharp broadheads kill quicker.

[mrklean]

I would say do your research, i researched a lot before i bought my bow, its not a cheap investment so do your research, make sure its a sport you want to stay in, try a friends bow first, just mess around some to make sure you will like it, spending a grand then figuring out you dont like it isnt cheap. The more research also you will find what you want and what will fit you.

[Scoot]

Lots of great advice above- I agree with pretty much everything that's already been said. Two things I'll reiterate: 1) like DD said, go to a proshop and get some advice. Also, don't be afraid to go to several proshops and see what you like best before you spend you money. Related to this- shoot as many different bows as you can before you buy one. Things to keep in mind are noise (most important in my opinion), length (many will disagree with me here because short ATA bows are all the rage, but you'll never find a simpler way to more consistent shooting than you will by buying a long ATA bow), feel (handshock, draw cycle, grip, general comfort), and less important, speed. I'd suggest you don't get caught up in worrying too much about how fast you're shooting. 2) If you're on a limited budget (who isn't?), listen to Powerstroke's and DD's advice- camo is camo. Don't worry about all the high end camo- find something cheap and fits right. Get something that'll work for early season and think about layers you can add as it gets colder. Do this as cheaply as you can, because only very, very, very rarely does you camo result in you shooting or not shooting a deer.

Also, there are lots of knowledgable people here, so ask specific questions as you run into them. DD and harvey lee know their stuff, listen to their advice.

[JigginIsLife]

So i went to one of the outfitters here in town (fargo) and it wasnt scheels but another one, had a decent expirence but didnt get alot of info on how to get started up. was a younger kid than i but did share some decent info about not getting my arm whiplashed like i did the very first time shooting a bow. god dang i cant believe a little string did this to my arm... are you foreal. anyways other than my little rant there, it was deffinatly a new expirence and one that i am excited to hopefully follow all the way through till deer season. all the guys i talk to about bow hunting says it deffinatly worth it... well i hope they are right, cuz it seems like fun, but alot of skill. thanks for the tips and pointers, keep em comming if you get a change, If your from around the Fargo/moorhead area, and know of any ranges let me know that would be awesome. or any other helpful ways of practicing

[Deitz Dittrich]

Yep, the ole forarm slap, aint fun(figure that string is going about 300 FPS).. its all a grip and form issue. I have only done it once in about my last 6,000 shots, and it was a forced funky shot...If under normal conditions it should not happen with proper form.

enjoy your new sport.

[charliepete2]

You can only slap your arm with a bowstring if you lock your elbow out. Try this. Stick your bow hand strait out from your body with your thumb up. When you're elbow is in proper shooting position you should be able to bend at the elbow and bring your fist across to your opposite shoulder like a garden gate opening and closing(keeping your arm parallel to the ground). If you keep your elbow rotated so that it would always swing like a garden gates you'll never slap your arm.

If you have your elbow turned so that when you bend at the elbow your thumb comes back and touches the shoulder on the same arm, you are locking your arm out and you WILL get slapped by the string.

Unfortunately this is hard to explain, but easy to demonstrate, hope this helps.

[JigginIsLife]

anyone know a decent place to look for used bows?? is this allowed on the forum i dont know, but i was thinking like online sources such as the forsale forum here, cragslist... anything else you can think of. i bet skeels has some i could go check out but they tend to be a bit pricy??

_________________________

[gurkster]

IMHO if you are just starting out I would go to a Pro Shop and get a used bow rather than buying from hsolist or hsolist. You may pay an extra few bucks, but the Pro Shop service, setup, fit, pointers, knowledege, etc. will be well worth it.

I agree with what most others have said, keep it simple. Get a good fitting bow, don't worry about speed, poundage, make, etc. Make sure the bow fits, get a comfortable mechanical release, arrows (here the Pro Shop can also help by matching the arrow weight, ect to what your setup is) and practice, practice, practice. From here out it is personal preference. Many good broadheads on the market, all capable of cleanly killing a deer. Many clothes, boots, etc.

BE WARNED THIS CAN BE EXTREAMLY ADDICTIVE AND LIFE ALTERING!! Welome to the sport!

[DonBo]

What gurk said!

[JigginIsLife]

another question i had is what do you think the minimumm draw weight would be to successfully taking down a deer at saw 25-30 yrds is 50 enough?? or should i be looking for a bow from 60-70??

[DonBo]

50 is plenty for any whitetail on the planet. But you should shoot the most weight that YOU can handle comfortably. I shoot about 55 lbs and shoot completely through most deer.

Good luck!

[Deitz Dittrich]

Like don bow said.. 40 is enough, heck 30 is probably enough. You want to be able to pull confortably at multiple angles, and after you have set a while and cold...

I hunt at 57lbs...I used to do the whole 65 or 70 pounds thing.. over rated in my opinion. I am a much better shot and can practice more at 57lbs...

[JigginIsLife]

I ended up finding a bow, that i can temporarily use and is only dependnt on whether i want to buy it or not. Its a PSE fire flight 33. matches my drawlength, and is about a 60# draw maxxed out. can anyone give m a decent estimate about how much its worth. its in pretty decent shape, no nicks or scratches, has a sight, an arrow holder deal, and has a peep sight that will have to b replaced. it has a rest but i think i want a whisker basket because they seem pretty user frendly and quiet.

another question. how do you determine whether the strings need to be replaced, or anything like that?? any obvoius signs of wear that i am looking at that i am not "seeing" there are some fraying but its very minimal, is this something i should be concerned about right now before i start target shooting, or can this be a delayed issue??

Thanks guys

[Deitz Dittrich]

I'm not familiar with the Fire Flight 33, I would look at prices on hsolist and see what the bow is going for to determine a good price.

As far as replacing the strings... If they look frayed at all, they need to go. Check them at the ends to see if there is any separation of the serving at the cams, thats where they seem to start to go first. For piece of mind, I may replace the strings if I were you.

[Code-Man]

It is better to shoot your bow maxed out then at the min. I shoot a 27.5" Drenaline but I figured my max I would want to set the bow at would be about 60 so I got a 50-60 lb bow and your better off to have the bow cranked up for accuracy then to have a 60-70 lb bow turned down for the draw.

[Bassboy1645]

Ill mention something very basic that has been overlooked. Camo should be quiet...not just quiet but ghost quiet. Think fleece or wool...I have just a basic olive and lighter forest green blobed jacket and pants from gander. there wool and camo. Find a camo that suits your environment well. For patterns you cant go wrong with Realtree or mossy oak. Up here anything dark is great cuz of al the pines.

Stand placement is important. You will want plenty of cover behind you limbs and or the tops of other trees to keep you from being skylined. Deer have a tendency to be afraid of skylined things like ppl trying to kill them.

[Deitz Dittrich]

Nice post Bassboy! I think stand placement is huge, and camo is a very small part of the whole pict. Finding the right tree is key!

[JigginIsLife]

Well i ended up getting a bow from my cousin, and working on getting stuff for it, i need a release, but i have no money right now so that will come, and i got finals soon, so i cant really get out and shoot any targets. Im excited though if anyone knows anything about the PSE fire flight 33 brand/series that would be neat, cuz thats what i got.

This is been one of the most technical endevors of my young life becuase there is so much information. what i have learned so far is archery is made up of so many little things, it blows my mind. I like to fish, and you can get away with understand the big picture, but in recent years i have really started to understand the small concepts and has increase my fishing 10 fold. now trying to understand all of this without any previous knowledge is dang near almost overwhelming, but im taking it in, and trying to get an understanding where i will start this year.

So far my understand is that i should be scouting for places right now to hunt, and for proper stand/blind location. im thinking of using a blind becuase i am thinking about hunting in the paul bunyon state forest, and putting up a blind would be much easier (any comments on that, or are blinds primarily for turkey). and when i find a place scent wind control, and shooting lanes are key. being able to shoot with your hunting clothes on is also important, along with repitition in arrow placement.

Another question i have is i was reading a magizine on the ride up to school (4.5 hrs) and they were talking about gpi i think is what it was, or weight im thinking is pretty much a lamens term. but to determine the right arrow for me how do i choose?? i really am in a blind area here, i have no one really to show me the ropes my first year, so pretty much all i have learned so far is from you guys, thanks for all the great info.!!

JIG

[charliepete2]

Jiggin...are you talking about grains per pound? There are some general recomendations saying that your arrow ought to be 7 grains for every pound of draw weight. It's more of a rule of thumb and lots of folks go lighter.

I hunted Paul Bunyan as a kid. Ground blinds are ok, but for a newbie bow hunter you'll probably have more success out of a treestand. I always had good luck keying in on the beaver dams and such. Using the water to funnel the deer closer will help you get close enough for a bow shot.

[Deitz Dittrich]

Right GPP is Grains per pound... 7 is a pretty good number.. I am at around 6 on my hunting bow. The Spine is the most important, which is the flex of the arrow. When you go to buy arrows, bring the bow, a reputable shop will give you options. You will need to know what weight you will be hunting or at least be pretty close to the weight you will be hunting at. Dont get caught up trying to pull the world back, I hunt at 58 lbs and do just fine.

[JigginIsLife]

is paul bunyon a prett busy place durring archery, or do most of the people up here just wait for rifle season?? thanks for the rule of thumb i will think about that a little more later. so your saying save the money and buy a tree stand?? anyone have much input on the climber stands i was thinking abot these but the tree would have to be like a bare pole or something, how well do they get around small stubs on branches and such??