Auger Technique or Accessory

[kwiggy]

I know my blades are sharp because the top 99% of the whole goes easily. But... that last inch my auger binds and spins the user. Is there Is there a special technique I should be doing or is there a cool accesory I can add to my auger to eliminate this problem.

It is a 10" 2 stroke Strikemaster about 3-4 years old. with two chipper blades... And one good-looking operator

[ilovehardwater]

I would toss on some ice cleats, you can easily get a trip to the ER without them. BT

[EyeSkater]

I've experienced this too. I think it has to do with the final layer of ice next to the water. This layer tends to not be as hard as top ice exposed to cold air. The effect is binding or grabbing of the auger bit. My best remedy is to maintain max rpm and lift some pressure off the blades as the bottom of the ice nears.

'Eye-Skater

[SP180]

Towards the end of the hole, let the auger do the work. I have gotten my auger stuck because i was putting to much pressure as it broke through the bottom of the ice. Do not lean on the auger as it is finishing the hole.

[rockman]

Depending on how thick of ice you have,I would pull the auger bit out of the hole after about the half way point to clear the hole of ice chips.This leaves a cleaner hole, and takes away some of the added weight on the bit as you drill deeper.It may not make a huge difference,but it has made a difference for me in helping to keep the bit from binding. I agree with keeping the throttle on full until you punch through.You may have already done this, but check the blade sharpness on a regular basis.Even a little bit of dullness from a year or two ago of prior use will affect the augers performance.

[Northlander]

You shouldnt have to push on your auger. If you are having to you either have dull blades or something isnt in alignment.

As far as hanging up at the bottom of the ice you got good advice above. Another thing is make sure you are drilling straight up and down so both blades are doing equal sufaces and 1 isnt catching at the bottom of the hole.

[WifeKidsandDog]

Slight rocking of the auger also helps along with not pushing.

[upnorth]

My old auger was so bad about that I had actually kinda lift on the last few inches. Really sucks!!!!

[BIG DS]

A couple of things, chipper blades will cut even if they are dull. You can easily sharpen them yourself with a good flat file. If you look at the corners of the teeth they are probably rounded off which will prevent them from cutting properly leaving you with the problem you are experiencing. The other thing would be take it past a shop and have them make sure it is operating at peak RPM. If not, they can adjust the governor to get it back to peak RPM. Have you ever had the carb cleaned and re-adjusted? If yours is a 3hp, it should run a bit rough wide open with no load. Then it should clean up and run smooth once you start drilling and have the engine under load. Some people tune the 3hp carbs so they run smooth at wide open throttle with no load. The problem with that is the mixture is way too lean and you are not getting the max hp the engine is capable of.

[Lotwfisher]

If it is binding on the bottom of the hole and not the where you have cut already then a simple fix is to lift the auger a little so its not trying to dig as much. If the auger is binding on the side of the hole kinda then you need to be sure you are drilling straight and not, or maybe something is miss aligned. The most probable cure is just to lift the auger so the weight of the auger isnt making the blades grab as much.

[JigginIsLife]

I know that my dads auger did this quite a bit, and i think it still does, i think he filed down something on it, some little piece of metal near the first spirial on the auger. mine seems to work well, but then again its new so i dont know what the deal is here. look for a little spur jut above the point on the bottom before the blades, if there is one this might be what is binding up your auger.

[Surface Tension]

I've seen that happen with a lot of different brand augers.

Whats happening is, in that last fraction of an inch as a portion of the blade(s)makes its way through, the constant feed up to that point increases for a split second and the auger blade drops and binds. What you can do it keep the rotation going but lift up a little bit at the end of the hole. If you re-open holes you'll know that you have to do the same thing.

An other example, If you take a drill bit and drill through steel with too much down pressure at the end of the cut you will have the same thing happen. The bit will bind. Decrease the down pressure and it won't bind. Look at the backside of the cut, you'll see a burr. Same thing is going on with a power auger.

The sharper the bit the less it'll hang and the bottom of the hole. Two reasons why, your putting less down pressure to cut and the sharper blade just knocks off that material at the end easier.

There is a small learning curve to drilling. A power auger is a large piece of equipment, it can't think, you have to adjust to the power auger.

If you need to rock the auger back and forth to cut then your blades are dull or out of alignment. If your auger binds DO NOT rock it back and forth or you'll bend the shaft. Lift when it binds. If that doesn't work, shut off the engine and counter rotate the auger.

In very thick ice the chips in the hole can build up to the point of binding. When that happens your in trouble. As you cut clear the chips away from the side of the hole with your foot and lift the auger from time to time to clear the hole of excess chips.

[kwiggy]

Thanks everybody for the tips. This kind of discussion is what makes this site so good. It's like hanging out on the ice with a bunch of friends who want to help make life easier and more fun.

Thanks again everybody. I'll let you know if things improve next time I get on the ice.

[harvey lee]

Good luck Kwiggy.

[Shack]

Quote:

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There is a small learning curve to drilling. A power auger is a large piece of equipment, it can't think, you have to adjust to the power auger.

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Could not have said it better. New or used chipper blades, the last inch takes a little fineness to get threw.

Like any drilling, the break threw is subject to a stop or readjusting the drilling device. If you have ever use a hand drill and been drilling threw wood or metal, it cuts great and easy, until the break threw point. It depends on the auger (dual chippers or single chipper blade), but the break threw most times will constitute a slight readjustment of auger. Basically I think part of the cutting blade opens the last point of bore and stops the auger from turning. A slight pull up to relieve debris (ice chips) and then another go is most likely a must most of the time. Some times I go right threw, others I have to readjust at the break threw point.

I would just go out and practice with the auger you have. After a couple hundred holes, you will not even notice the adjustment you have to do. It becomes second nature.

Good luck