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Hard Starting Strikemaster


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Any help on trying to start a strikemaster lazer mag easier. I bought it new last winter and it never really starts very easily. Maybe that is what i should expect from a 2 stroke in the winter, but i dont think i should have to pull it 15-20 times for it to start. And if i shut it down, 20 min later it is a really challenge again. Any hints out there on starting this beast? confused.gif

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I got mine on clearance at the end of last year and have had the same problem. I figured it was just not broken in yet, as I don't have that many hours on it.

Sorry that's not much help, but you are not alone!! Love it when its burning holes like there is no tomorrow!!!!

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Had the same issue with mine last year, guy at the store recommended mixing gas/oil a little on the rich side, it helped, and this year first time starting was a bunch easier...maybe it just needed a year of seasoning?

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Same thing for me too. I took it to Strikemaster in Big Lake and they put a new carbeurator on it. It still starts tough. They recommended turning it off with the compression button but that doesn't seem to help. Mine also seems to bog down a little like there isn't a consistent gas flow. Almost sounds like I pressing the throttle and releasing even though I am holding it down.

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Just a few thoughts.. Make sure you are mixing the gas/oil @ the prescribed ratio. Contrary to popular belief, more oil in the mix is not better, in fact it can cause a lean condition at operating r.p.m (more oil-less gas also =lean). The more oil in the mix the more of a chance of poor combustion,hard starting, and risk of plug fouling. Stick as close to the manufacturer spec. as possible. You may also need to adjust the carb.(air & fuel) after warming it up, the way augers vibrate they sometimes will need to be adjusted back to proper running spec. As mentioned before make sure the gas cap is venting properly, even if the screw is out it may not be venting correcly. Fresh gas is always a plus, even if you go two weeks between trips I would dump the old stuff out and mix up some fresh stuff esp. with todays crappy gas. Alot of people tend to mix up too much gas at once then about mid-season thier can of auger mix has already lost 1/2 it's octane then the auger starts to run like dump. confused.gif Anyway just my 2 cents on my previous experiences, hope this helps! smirk.gif

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Also if you're not using non-oxygenated (premium)gas try it! Just make sure that it is non-oxygenated, there is a sticker on the pump.A small-engine repairman I trust told me that most small engine problems with carbs are from unleaded regular gas. The non-oxy will help make the gaskets last longer too.

It is not sold at alot of stations, but checking around, you should be able to find one nearby.

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I had the same problem with mine last year and my dad is having the same problem with his this year. They were both new last year.

I sent mine back to Strikemaster and they replaced the carb. I haven't tried to start it since then, but will soon.

I sure hope that's the fix, because the auger cuts great. But it's frustrating to pay that kind of money for something that doesn't want to start. Must be one heck of a problem, because I keep reading about it all different forums.

Strikemaster was good though when I talked with them.

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Mine starts alright. I start and run it every other month or so in the off season and make sure to run stabil in the gas and through the engine when I do this. I havne't tried non-oxegenated gas but have used that on my out board and didn't really notice an difference. I know that with 2 cycles as with any internal combustion engine you need to use them more if you want them to be reliable.

I have a 2nd issue with my strike master lazer mag Xpress 2 hp 8" auger though. For some reason my screw always turns even at idle. I think it's supposed to stay still isn't it? Does anyone know if there is some kind of adjustment to make it stop turning when it is at idle???

---Zdaddy

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Quote:

I have a 2nd issue with my strike master lazer mag Xpress 2 hp 8" auger though. For some reason my screw always turns even at idle. I think it's supposed to stay still isn't it? Does anyone know if there is some kind of adjustment to make it stop turning when it is at idle???

---Zdaddy


I use a Jiffy, so I'm not real familiar with your Strikemaster, but most augers have about the same setup.

There should be a small (phillips I think) screw somewhere along your throttle linkage that controls the idle speed. I think backing the screw out will slow down your idle. If you back it out and it speeds up more, turn it in. wink.gif All the idle speed controls is how far the throttle handle is pulled back at rest (without you giving it any throttle). It doesn't control the fuel/air mixture, so you can't really screw antything up by just adjusting the idle speed.

gill man

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the gillman is on to the probblem. I have a eskimo barracuda and it was running very thin (idle) when I bought it and it did the same things as all of you are describing. My father-in-law and I concluded that it was not running "rich" enough and had to abjust the 2 "screws" (regular heads on mine - not phillips)below the choke to adjust the richness of the idle. Mine now runs great and have no problems starting it. one of our favorite things to do now is to count how many pulls it takes other fisherman near us to start their augers.

we believe this is a ongoing issue becasue these motors are made and tested in heated environments and then sent to the stores for sale and never adjusted for close or below zero temps.

adjust the idle and you will solve your problem (hopefully)

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I bought some Amsoil, but haven't tried it yet. Wanted to break it in using the Strikemaster oil, just for Warranty's sake. wink.gif

I will definitely have to try and adjust it this weekend. Thanks for all of the advice/tips!! grin.gif

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The problem is the carbs on all of your augers are not adjustable. They are preset from the factory to burn lean to reduce emmissions so they meet the EPA emmissions standards for outdoor power equiptment. There are no low or high speed adjustments. My question is, are the new carbs that they are installing in Big Lake adjustable? The ones that I have fixed I have had to drill the jet out a bit to compensate for the lean condition. I have also found that the diphragm on the needle valve side is bad on a lot of them which is causing a lot of hard start problems. ***FYI*** The carb is a Techumseh carb. For those of you willing to put in your own kit, the Tillotson RK21HU kit is the same as the Techumseh one but costs half as much. Hope that helps some of you out.

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Any small engine dealer that sells and/or services Techumseh engines should carry the Tillotson kit I listed above. Don't fool around with the mixture too much. Too much oil will cause a lean condition and tends to plug the muffler. Not enough oil could seize your engine. I would strongly recommend the Amsoil 100:1 mix as it will help clean up the engine, will eliminate smoke and most of the stink. Check with your local Amsoil dealer for the specifics. It is a great product. I personally use the Stens version in my auger, chainsaw, weed whip, and leaf blower. 1 mix for all four peices of equipment. No more oil mess and I have not needed to touch the carbs since I switched them over.

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I topped off my Strikemaster Lazer Mag Xpress with gas last night to start for the first time this winter. Applied full choke, 7 pulls, she was purring like a kitten.

My auger is either 5 or 6 years old now. I've never done ANY preventative maintenance or ever had to fix anything either.

I seriously love this auger. It is a rock, dependable, always starts, and actually runs better the colder it is outside.

Oh... Amsoil Saber mixed 100:1 for the last 2 years now as well. Do yourself a favor and run Amsoil! Do not use the little Strikemaster bottles of oil. Do not!!!

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I too switched last year do to problems with my strikemaster. I also found turning the idle up a pinch helps a lot. Good luck.

Oh yeah if you order the amsoil it usually takes a day to get it (business day)

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