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Mobile 1 Synthetic


Ryan_V

Question

I put very few miles on my vehicle each year. I want to start running Mobile 1 synthetic. My question is whether or not I need a special filter. I change my own oil. I can buy the oil at wal-mart, but there aren't any special filters there for synthetic. Will a regular Fram filter work??? thanks for the help.

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I will second the Mobil One and Fram Tough Guard opinion. You can use any filter, but for a couple extra bucks I have always used the Tough Guard and Mobil One. 254,000 miles and still running well with never a single problem.

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Ryan if you don't hardly drive it, is it worth such pricey oil? Put in new pure oil frequently and if it doesn't get used enough to even get dirty why switch? Also, on the dirt track race cars I've run, we found the Wix filters to be the best...

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I agree with the dog,if your only putting on a few miles why spend the extra money for the Mobil 1 or any other synthetic? You will improve mileage a little,but a what expense.If you change your oil every 3000 miles,the regular oil will protect your motor just fine.We dont run synthetic in our modified race car and our motors do just fine with regular oil changes.Oil filters are like oil brands,everyone has there favorite,we use Fram.

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Don't use Fram Filters. Tests have shown that they are not good quality. If you're gonna spend the money on mobil 1, use a mobil filter or wix or Napa Gold. If you want to go cheep on the filter use purolator or ac delco. I personally have been using mobil 1 in my last 4 vehicles. I think it makes your engine last longer, run smoother and start easier in the winter. I still change oil as often as I did when I used regular oil. MHO

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I've never been a fan of fram filters either. A while back they went cheap and had all kinds of problems. I'm pretty sure they have corrected this but there are so many other quality, competitively priced filters that I prefer.

Powerflo - The off brand of purolator - been using these for years on customers cars and personal cars and there less than the fram filters.

Wix - These are a premium filter (IMO) at a premium price.

Napa line - Same part numbers as the wix less expensive. Never have asked if the are the same as wix or not.

A/c Delco - Have a GM vehicle why not use a factory filter. Can be found at alot of part stores and still competitely priced.

Motorcraft - A factory filter for fords and reasonably priced as well.

Any O.E. filter - If the car is under warranty it makes good sense to use a O.E. dealer filter. No finger pointing if theres a serious engine failure.

As far as Using synthetic. Its a personal choice. In your case it may offer a bennifit or two. If you vehicle stays dormant for extended periods a synthetic would be better at reducing start up friction. In the winter it would be more bennifitial as the lubrication would get to where it needs to be quicker. Other than that its just making a bigger dent in your pocket book.

A quick note for all you guys that use Fram filters. The black "grip" coating they put on the end is not ment to help in the tightening process of installing the filter, its to help loosen them. Please for the love of god stop tightening them garilla tight. blush.gif If the engine moves in its mounts while tightening a filter you have over done it! grin.gif

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We use to use Fram racing oil filters and never had any problem with them. The engine shop that builds our modified motors recommends these filters.Granted they are a heavy duty filter and maybe there is alot of difference.Now we use Napa Gold filters and have had very good luck with those also.Usually when I put my filters on,Ill use a pipe wrench with a 4ft pipe to tighten them up,I guess maybe that is to tight a.Valve,looks like maybe we should just hand tighten only.

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Finally, a subject I am good at, since it seems like the fish are not coperating this year.Regular orange Fram filters are junk, please I advise you guys not to use them. If I have a half cut filter display that I use to have at work I will show you guys. Regular orange Fram filters have so little pleats of filtering media, that off brand filters like Powerflow beat them in that dept. Less pleats means less filtering media, which equals to more contaminants in our engine. The filtering media that Fram uses is like straight cardboard paper only. Fram only gets it customer base because it was one of the very first filter companies. And it only the name "Fram" helps it sell it product. Many other filter companies use synthnetic medias that can withstand oil pressure burst better. The other Fram filter like Tough Gaurd are decent, but watch out for the Fram filter that has liquid teflon inside the filter. Solids in the engine is a no-no. Good oil filters are Wix (Napa Gold), Mobil, Bosch, Pure One(purlator), and most OEM's.If you don't drive much, synthnetic is not worth it, but if you do put in the miles then maybe its worth it. I have a Honda Civic that is pushing 300,000 miles on the original motor, and tranny, and I have always used dino oil. And then my truck it gets synthnetic all the time, because of the towing and miles that it goes through. $5 a quart for a little more cushion is cheaper than paying for a new motor. You know those painted black ends on the orange Fram filters, next time look at the little shavings on the bottom of the box that it came in. Where do you think the black shavings go?

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The original poster should let us know how many miles per year are put on this vehicle. It might better help forumate a plan. If it is really very few miles it might be ok to just do a once a year oil change with a good synthetic oil and filter. No need to change it every 3 months if he's only putting on 5000 miles a year. Napa Gold a good filter for the money and as mentioned is made by Wix. That's what I'd choose over any walmart available filter.

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Well...

Looks like I'm switching oil filters on my next oil change. Napa Gold or Wix it is for me.

BTW- 99 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 5.3l I have a 140,000 on it now and have been using Mobile 1 synthetic for at least 50,000 miles now.

Thanks for the tips guys.

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Gus, I do only put on about 3000-5000 miles annually. That is why I want to switch to synthetic. I know that if you don't put miles on your oil, you are supposed to change it every 3 months. I figure if I'm only changing oil once a year anyway, might as well spend a little more and go the synthetic route. I run amsoil in my wifes tahoe, but don't want to spend that on my old hunting, fishing and camping rig!!

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Quote:

We use to use Fram racing oil filters and never had any problem with them.


Ya I used to use those too, but at about $8 a pop, I decided that was stupid. I cut all my filters and look at the element after I change them and I just think those Wix filters are the cat's meow of all the ones I've had open. I don't even use their racing ones, just the regular ones are that good...

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I know that Napa carry them in their brand Napa Gold, O'reilly's(Bumper to Bumper), and a other auto parts retailer. Don't use the Wix racing filters on a regular vehicle, because even though they are good, it does not have the safety features like anti-drain back valve, and other properties that help a normal motor. If you do try to use them there is a warning that says not for street use on the box.

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An excellent filter that nobody has recommented is the Donaldson brand. I have been using them on one of my cars since new along with synthetic oil. Granted, the car has only 37K miles, but with synthetic I change only once or twice per year and the oil looks almost the same when it comes out as when it went in as far as color/clarity, etc.

Granted, the filters are expensive, but at such infrequent change intervals it's no big deal.

I think Dondalson actually makes lots of filtering medias for many companies.

One thing I read somewhere and partially borne out from experience, is that with some oils (my experience is mainly from hydraulics) you can change the oil too much. In some situations, it actually becomes cleaner after some use and maintains this cleaner state due to the filtering effect.

Where I work, we kidney-loop filter all incoming (bulk) hydraulic oil using 6 micron (absolute rating B=75 I think) filter. Then, after the machine is built, we operate it at very low pressure and speed until the ISO oil cleanliness level is below a certain point. This point is several levels cleaner than the new incoming oil.

Then, after the machine is operated for functional test, the oil is resampled to ensure no significant increase in oil contamiation level.

Oil cleanliness is serious business with some systems.

Engines may not be quite a critical as a 6000 PSI hydralic system, but I thought some of you might find it interesting that oil from a new, sealed container is not all that clean in many cases.

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Ryan,

If I were in your shoes and only put on 3-5000 miles I would do once a year oil changes with synthetic and "I" would feel very comfortable. Use a good synthetic like you have suggested (M1 or Amsoil). Just my opinion.

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