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Thick ice, go to auger gas or cordless


rundrave

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42 minutes ago, Surface Tension said:

 Choosing between my 8" Nils w/ Tanaka 270 or  8"Nils and Milwaukee M18 Fuel for thick ice. Both are light, dependable, and great speed of cut so its a toss up there.   If you asked me which one will break down first I'll pick the drill.   I say that because I know how many holes the 270 has drilled.    Most of the cost of going electric is in the battery(s).  Replacing a bare tool has gotten relatively cheap.  Besides drills and proprietary electric auger combos, electric powerheads are coming out where just like the drill you mount your auger to.  Trophy Strike is one of them.

 

 If your drilling through thick ice(32" or more) and even through your auger can drill through, you should be cleaning the hole out of chips every foot of so.  Especially when you run into wet holes.  That will lessen the load but most importantly eliminate any chance of the auger getting bound up.

 

  If your using an electric auger then you've answered the question for yourself whether or not it'll replace a gas auger.  Each of us have our own needs and beliefs.    I remember when there weren't any gas augers.   Then one day you'd hear a model 30 rap off piercing the silence while throwing a blue cloud of smoke only to stall half way through a hole then continue on its raucous till it punched through . It was faster then hand drilling and everyone looked and watched with envy.  They are still used to this day. 

Now we grumble "how gauche" or something like that at the Bark of the 30,  coughing like its ready to die a certain death. But no someone started it up again.

 

 

 

 

Here is some more advice that you gave back in 2013 which made a big diff for my Strikemaster with a chipper blade. I had not touched the drill point thinking it only just held the drill in one place when drilling, but once I followed this it was like night and day cutting holes. I touch it up every few outings now. ?

 

Surface Tension

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'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

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Location: Twig, Mn

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Posted January 23, 2013

When you sharpen the center point be sure to look close at the edge. You will see the angle. What is important is that you don't take more off the edge then you do the heel.

The edge would be the leading part that makes contact with the ice and the cutting. The heel is the part that follows. The edge cuts so if you removed it or rounded it the heel drags and the blade can't cut. Use a felt pen and mark the edge. That will tell you what your taking off. A file will work but your taking multiple passes and it only takes one pass to remove material that shouldn't be taken off.

The chipper blade is like a chisel with a flat side and a bevel.

Inspect the blade for nicks. That will determine how much material will need to be removed. To do so run your file parallel to the edge till the nick is removed.

Any burr on the backside(flat side)will be gone.

Before I sharpen the edge I use a round file and sharpen the groves. Pay attention to the angle. Now move onto sharpening the edge. This is all done on the bevel side of the blade. Match the angle and go to it. Don't rock the file and make your strokes into the edge. When your done there should be a burr across the entire backside of the blade.

If there isn't your not done. Last step is removing that burr on the backside.

Personally I'd come down to 1000 grit and then leather. In this case lay the flat side(back side)of the blade on a stone. Keep it perfectly flat and remove the burr being careful to not rock the blade.

If your confident you've done the above correctly and this is going on a StrikeMaster install the blade and test it.

If this is going on a Jiffy, depending on how much material you took off the blade you will have to adjust the mount according to that. That big round plate is the mount and it also stops the cut. If you took 1/8th" off the blade then you have that much less sticking out past the plate. It is also possible that with a dull blade and all the pushing and banging you've bent that mount. Use a straight edge on the plate. Where the mounting area is in realization to the rest of the plate is self explanatory. Use a large adjustable wrench to bend it back. This sets the pitch and also gets the blade more profile to cut.

The SM hasn't the flat plate but the mount is of the same principle as it sets the pitch and like the Jiffy can bend with weight and banging. If after new blades or a confident sharpen and your not getting good bite adjust the mount.

When you here of shimming this is what they are accounting for, bent mounts.

Since you have only a single blade don't be too worried about this adjustment as your not matching a set of blades. Just take do it in small increments.

This is why I'm reluctant to sharpen(non Nils)blades without having the whole auger because the mount may need to be adjusted.

Nils blades on the other hand have the mount and blade as one unit and I can take care of both

Edited by leech~~
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To the drill buffs, 15ah & 20ah on the horizon. Samsun's new 50E 21700 cell already in use in the new (single row, wider cell) 3ah 20v DeWalt battery. You might want to start saving as the battery price point could be in the $350 to $400 range for big ampers. Bit pricey for a tool only drill, battery, Nills or K-drill 8 incher. Oh wait, I could get a Propane both Nills and K-drills, 8 pack of 1# fuel and still have enough left over for Steak & Lobster for 4 at LOW late ice.

Screenshot_20181027-083939.thumb.png.84843ec2dbdb33258d400f6fcc00018d.png

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2 hours ago, Surface Tension said:

Leech, I should have spent a few minutes proof reading and editing that back in 2013. You got the idea though.

 

 

See your even smarter now then the kid you were back then. ? 

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I have a K drill and love the thing for early and late ice but I have to agree with some of the others.  You wont find me selling my Strike master  Solo anytime soon. For my style of fishing and when faced with  deep ice conditions the gas is still the ticket. Yes I know the weight is a issue but the cutting performance through deep ice and punching numerous holes running and gunning its hard to beat the power auger,. I realize the high amp batterys are the ticket and are out there and bigger ones are comeing, but why would I want to dump another couple hundred dollars on batterys to pound through super thicj ice like last year when the solo is bought proven and paid for .  So to say which one I say both because IMO they both have a time and place. 

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1 hour ago, monstermoose78 said:

That could be but rick sure could cut a lot of holes with that 9 then. 

Not am many as I did with a half tank of gas through my Lazer.As I already said, it's not for the amount of holes for me, it's more for the portability early and late ice, and for reopening old holes. K-drill and my Milwaukee Fuel is a great setup, but as Chris said, gas power will always be just a pull away.

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I will go with tom, chris and leech when a gas auger is needed. :)  we do have fun out there dont we. Sure like the idea of the 9 and 12 amps but will just stick with the 2 5amps I have. I dont drill as many as you guys do and so far the 5's are good. Nice that we have so dang many options to chase those fish. wont be long and we will be swiss cheeeeezing. 

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3 hours ago, Tom Sawyer said:

Not sure when they were released, thought this summer, but Rick had a 9.     https://youtu.be/tEP4ThDWoYk

Telsa announced production of the new higher ah 21700 ion battery in Jan 2017, Samsung a week later. Took a while for Milwaukee & DeWalt to design, retool drill package. DeWalt released the new 3ah in March 2018 followed by the 12ah flex volt in April 2018. Mikwaukee came out with the 12ah in May 2018. Milwaukee & DeWalt only use Samsung Li ION battery cells. Telsa is used by electric bicycle manufactures.

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1 hour ago, eyeguy 54 said:

I will go with tom, chris and leech when a gas auger is needed. :)   I dont drill as many as you guys do and so far the 5's are good.

 

That's because the last time I fished by you. You ran around with your bucket fishing in everyone else's holes they drilled! So yeah stay with the 5's! ?

IMG_2562.JPG

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1 hour ago, leech~~ said:

 

That's because the last time I fished by you. You ran around with your bucket fishing in everyone else's holes they drilled! So yeah stay with the 5's! ?

IMG_2562.JPG

 

1 hour ago, eyeguy 54 said:

lol.  I was a drilling, whopper catching machine that day. 

my ryobi was good enough that day. 

Only the color of his drill has changed. He could get by with the 3 amp batteries,,,,,, for the weekend.....

Edited by Tom Sawyer
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9 minutes ago, eyeguy 54 said:

they are 4 amps. :)  Still have them all for leaf blower, drills, weed whacker and small chain saw. 

Yeah, that's all you need...even in the BWCA? as long as you have the posse

Edited by Tom Sawyer
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3 hours ago, Tom Sawyer said:
3 hours ago, eyeguy 54 said:

they are 4 amps. :)  Still have them all for leaf blower, drills, weed whacker and small chain saw. 

Yeah, that's all you need...even in the BWCA?

 

Can't use power augers in the BWCA. Yes electric drill powered augers are "powered" as well. ONLY hand powered augers allowed.

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Hands down, 8" Nils and Dewalt 20V!  Carry both batteries, keep them warm and seems to drill more than enough holes for me. I don't feel like it stresses the drill at all. Last year was my first season running it, so I'm hoping to really put it to the test this season. 

 

My only concern is how many years will I get out of the batteries and drill.... I'm sure it won't be as long as a gas auger. If/when it blows out on me, I may wind up going back to gas. For now, it's the only way to go. 

 

Best part is if the drill breaks, or batteries die, I still have the best hand auger on the market and can keep fishing. Can't say that for any of the other electric augers out there! 

Edited by BRULEDRIFTER
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21 hours ago, AlwaysFishing23 said:

 

Can't use power augers in the BWCA. Yes electric drill powered augers are "powered" as well. ONLY hand powered augers allowed.

You missed the joke @AlwaysFishing23, eye guy doesn't drill many holes.....

 

6 hours ago, BRULEDRIFTER said:

Best part is if the drill breaks, or batteries die, I still have the best hand auger on the market and can keep fishing. Can't say that for any of the other electric augers out there! 

The K-drill auger bit has been bullet proof

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