Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

how long do your boots last


Recommended Posts

I have a pair of Irish Setters that are very comfortable. Only problem is that they are 4yrs old and got quite a few miles on them. They are still water proof but the seems along the toes and other areas are about shot and falling apart and look worse and worse after each day out in the field.

I have never cleaned them, treated them or oiled them, should I be doing this to get them to last longer?

How long are your boots holding up and what brand are they? Seems like my buddies with Danner's that have a solid rubber toe with no leather seems are holding up and still look much better than my boots and they are just as old or older and used as often as mine?

Has anyone had luck repairing boots in rough shape? Or am I better off buying a new pair? I have no issues buying a $200 pair of boots I just want them to last.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I try to clean mud off my boots whenever I can, simply because it can hurt the leather. And I'll treat them once a season, which is usually enough.

My favorite pair of boots were Irish Setters I bought back in 2000 or so. Lasted 10 years before I had to replace them. The Danners I bought to replace them kicked the bucket after two years. Guess they just don't make them like they used to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pair of Danner's that I have been wearing for around 8 years. They look beat to hell now, but they do not leak and are just as comfortable as the day I bought them.

By getting Irish Setters vs some other lessor brand, you clearly know good boots and as someone who walks miles and miles in a day let alone a season you know how valuable a good pair is.

I would say that treating mine maybe hasnt increased the life, but it certainly has made them look better. :-)

I just use the danner boot dressing. No mink oil, snow seal, bees wax water, just boot dressing. I wipe them off before putting it on to get most of the debris off then I apply with just my fingers and rub it in.

I have found that full leather boots stand up far better to pheasant hunting that anything with cordura, etc. It takes a lot to wear through leather, not so much with Cordura. I had a pair of Rockys that wore through in one season.

You could probably spray Plasti Dip or Flex Seal on the front to extend the life a bit. Guys do this to hockey skates all the time so they dont get beat up and it works great.

The only boots I will buy are Danners. I have had 2 pair over the last 15 years. First was a pair of Danner Ospreys. Well a seam came apart at year 5. I sent them back to Danner hoping they could repair them (included a note). A couple weeks later I get a $150 voucher to put toward new boots!!! I wasnt looking for that at all, super pleased.

I know some guys who recently (last couple years) bought Danners and had trouble, but these boots were made overseas. Danner has come out and changed this and is now making them in USA again. Sucks, but that is the nature of the manufacturing beast these days at least they hopefully resolved the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get about 4-5 years out of a pair of boots but I also wear them year round for various outdoor activities both play and work. I've found that the more leather and fewer stitches on a pheasant hunting boot will make them last much longer. That sharp edged prairie grass can really cut into Cordura and any stitching. I treat mine with a boot dressing (Obenauff's?) that really extends the life of the leather.

For what its worth, boots made in Europe (Germany, Romania, SLovakia, etc) seem to be some of the best boots you can buy both in life, comfort and durability. My last few pair have been brands like Lowa, Mammut, Hanwag, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had Irish Setters that lasted for many many years (they were still going strong when a house fire claimed them so I can't say how long they would have lasted). Spray them down every August to boost the water repellency come fall. I wouldn't buy any other kind. They don't need to look new to work well. Hunting shouldn't be a fashion contest!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wear a pair of LL Bean hiking boots when I go out. Hands down the most comfortable boots I have ever worn. I have worn them ALL day before, walking miles on concrete and then later out in the field with no pain or issues. I have had mine for at least 10 years. Some years they have seen more action then others. I am interested to see how they work this year. When they go I will buy another pair. Hopefully the quality today is what it was when they were bought. If the next pair proves to be troublesome I will probably try Irish Setters.

They are the Men's Bean's Gore-Tex Cresta Hiker, Leather/Fabric and run $229.00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a mink oil guy myself. I have two pairs of Irish Setters (one with insulation, one without) and they get wiped down and treated with mink oil after every trip. One pair is 5 years old now and the other is 4 years old. After they are cleaned and oiled, they look brand new.

Also, you can send your Irish Setters in to Red Wing Boots for repair at any time, free of charge. I've done this many times in the past with boots. And if you take them to a Chet's Shoes or similar retailer, they will usually ship them Red Wing for free as well. I'd highly recommend sending your boots in for a repair before you give up on them. The only caution I have is that the wait time can be a few weeks, so don't do it until after the season.

I've always worn Irish Setters for upland hunting, and based on my experiences with their repair and customer service team, I always will be!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not trying to start something; I'm just sharing experiences. A few years ago, my Setters started leaking after Year 2. I called to ask about options and was told "buy a new pair." I did - and I will - and they will never be that brand again. Wolverines are in year 3 and doing ok - a bit heavy bt dry and comfortable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was in my hunting prime, boots would last 2-3 years tops. Ruffed Grouse hunting can be long walks and at times in very abrasive terrain. Pheasant grass takes its toll too.

No days I suppose 4-5 years.

I buy mostly leather (some nylon is often inevitable) and always buy Gore-Tex lined only. Anything else simply fails in my experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

herm,

I had the same experience with Irish Setters....the seams started falling apart at year 2 and Red Wing said "too bad, so sad, buy a new pair". I did, but not Irish Setters. On my feet Danners are better in every category. Better yet is Schnees, but they are really spendy. I will never buy Red Wings again. I have a pair of Danners that go back to 1995. Oh, are they comfy. Not waterproof anymore, but they are a joy to wear!

Danners are made both in China and in the USA. Pay more for the USA made Danners and you will be happy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had similar experience with Red Wings. The first ones I bought about 30 years ago were great and lasted 5-7 years of hard hunting. The next pair only lasted 2 years and the 3rd pair was returned after 2 weeks. I have had a similar experience with Danner. My first Pronghorns 10 years ago or so were great. Next pair leaked just after the 1 year warranty was up. That pair was made in China. I got a credit for them from Danner and bought a USA made pair and after 2 seasons they are still like brand new. I wonder if Red Wing farms out their work to China?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I buy cheap boots. Under $100/pair & put Dr Schoals inserts in em. Treat em like garbage, put A LOT of miles on em since I use em for a lot more than just pheasant hunting, & they still last 3-5 years.

My buddy does that. Buys cheap Rockies on clearance for like $60, beats the ever loving heck out of them without worry, and they still last a good three years. If my mathimication is correct, that's like $20 a year on boots. Darn cheap considering a $160 pair of Pronghorns might last that long if you're lucky...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a pair of Whites, I use to wear them for wildland firefighting. I had them custom molded to my feet at the boot shack in St Cloud. They are not cheap boots, 6 years of firefighting in them and four years of grouse hunting with them and now in the winter I wear them when I work on the ambulance cause they have unbelievable traction. They are the smokejumper boots, great ankle support. If you buy a pair of them use some camp dry on them and they will outlast you......

Kettle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My dad just bought a new pair of Danners last week before our Pheasant trip. The first day he wore them he crossed the drainage swale and he found out that they leaked. He brought them back yesterday, but that is very disappointing. I'm in need of another pair of boots (my 3rd pair of Danners)and I'm reluctant to go that route this time. My previous 2 pairs of Danners last about 7 yrs each.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first pair of Danners are still in the closet. In rough shape but still usable. I have a newer pair that I've been better about using the cleaner and the dressing compound and then the tanning oil. Still in decent shape after 2 years and approx. 75 miles of walking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.