Dave Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 OK, you guys always seem to have the answers so, got a question for ya.I plumbed by cabin with PEX. I'm looking for water supply shutoff valves (kitchen sink, bath vanity and toilet) with 1/2" PEX inlet and 3/8" outlet that has a drain port, for winterizing. Having a tough time locating such valves. Am I looking for something that's not available? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleFloyd Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 John Guest has a pretty wide variety of fittings for PEX. If they don't make them you might just want to do a pex-copper union and then get the appropriate shutoff valve you would use with copper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAMAN Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 It would be better to put drain valves at the lowest point in the system. That way you can shut off the water, open the drain valves, then go around and turn on all the faucets around the house to allow the water to completely drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 These are the lowest points in the system. The main supply lines run across ceiling height. Cabin's on a slab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 I think that's the route I'm going to have to take, PF. I found these at the Big M but, it's PEX on both ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom7227 Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I'm missing something here. Why would you need a drain port on the valves when all you have to do is open the faucets and drain them that way? I guess that I would figure out a way to hook a compressor up to the system and blow out the last bit of water that would sit at any point lower than the last faucet. I would also guess that the water heater is the lowest point in the system. What would happen if there were a few inches of water left in the heater over the winter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 I'm missing something here. Why would you need a drain port on the valves when all you have to do is open the faucets and drain them that way? I guess that I would figure out a way to hook a compressor up to the system and blow out the last bit of water that would sit at any point lower than the last faucet. I would also guess that the water heater is the lowest point in the system. What would happen if there were a few inches of water left in the heater over the winter? All faucets and water heater are on the same floor. If I have drain ports on the shutoff valves, there should be no need for a compressor, if I'm thinking right, it'll all be gravity drained. Does a water heater drain completely using the drain valve on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nobody05 Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 yes they make them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom7227 Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 But if you open all the faucets and leave them open you probably are going to have maybe 15 inches of water left in them. I guess I don't see that as a problem since there is going to be plenty of room for the water to expand without causing damage. Same for the water heater. Maybe I'm completely wrong about this and someone can straighten me out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordie Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Dave I would still push air thru the lines to clean them out. that kind of thing its always better to be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Gordy, yes, I agree. Nobody....ah, any hint where I can get 'em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom7227 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 You can just work a nipple in someplace and put a standard air connector that you can attach a hose to. You'll have to put a shut off on it to keep water where it belongs. BTW are you going to use gate style valves or ball? I'm sure there's a more proper name for them but I don't know it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macgyver55 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Dave, cant you get a standard valve with a drain, and just solder on adapters for what you want on each side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 I think I can, Mac. Just didn't look through all the fittings at the store yet. Plus, I was trying to get away with less soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archerysniper Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 If you buy the regular Compression stops you can take them apart at the end of the season just like a union and blow it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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