Window replacement

[LwnmwnMan2]

I've got to start to replace the windows in my 35 year old house, the wood is rotting around the outsides of the windows.

We want to switch to vinyl clad windows. Can I measure what size the window will be needed without taking the trim off of the windows, whether inside or out?

Some of these windows are quite large, along with an extremely large bay window which we would like to remove, or just replace with some large flat windows.

[CAMAN]

If they are all basically the same windows you can just pry the trim away from one or two windows to see how thick the frame is. Should be around 3/4", then just measure the inside of the frame (preferably closer to the corners incase the frame is bowed) and calculate what the outside dimensions would be by adding the thickness of the two sides of the frame.

[Surface Tension]

If you have brick mold on the exterior and 2.5" casing inside then chances are the RO is OK and you can do as caman said.

The casing has to come off anyway so if your ordering windows and getting right to the project I'd pull it off.

Use a utility knife to score the paint and a stiff putting knife to get behind the casing and pry it off.

What type siding and trim do you have?

[upnorth]

Our next years summer project is new windows. We figure to go vinyl too, but the decision process is not easy. Don't want to break the bank and don't want to be thinking O $#&* we pick the wrong stuff 5 - 10 years down the road.

[shizzy]

where is the rot on the windows? is it just the brick molding?

[pureinsanity]

You should be able to find slip ins that you can just take in place and reuse your inside trim and just replace the outside wood.

[crothmeier]

Measuring brickmold to brickmold will get you close for pricing. When it comes time to actually order, pull the casing and take actual rough opening measurements.

Some things to consider... if you are going to do a full frame/new construction window, you will have to disrupt some siding on the exterior. Vinyl is easily manipulated, steel is more of a challenge. If it is wood, you can cut the siding back and put a 3 or 4 inch trim board over the nail fin surrounding the new window. This will factor into the labor cost. (new construction is the best method, as you have a nail flange, and can tape over it)

Vinyl Clad optinos for local companies would be Anderson or Marvin..

If you're lookign for an all-vinyl window, thermo-tech, Marvin(all ultrex), or Andersen 100 series would be good choices.

If you choose replacements, then check your existing frames, they should be in good condition to choose this method. (you wont be able to do the bay/bow with this method)

[crothmeier]

Measuring brickmold to brickmold will get you close for pricing. When it comes time to actually order, pull the casing and take actual rough opening measurements.

Some things to consider... if you are going to do a full frame/new construction window, you will have to disrupt some siding on the exterior. Vinyl is easily manipulated, steel is more of a challenge. If it is wood, you can cut the siding back and put a 3 or 4 inch trim board over the nail fin surrounding the new window. This will factor into the labor cost. (new construction is the best method, as you have a nail flange, and can tape over it)

Vinyl Clad optinos for local companies would be Anderson or Marvin..

If you're lookign for an all-vinyl window, thermo-tech, Marvin(all ultrex), or Andersen 100 series would be good choices.

If you choose replacements, then check your existing frames, they should be in good condition to choose this method. (you wont be able to do the bay/bow with this method)

[LwnmwnMan2]

The wood framing around the window is rotted out on about 4 windows.

The bay window, we can sit on the couch in front of it, and feel the breeze coming through when it's a NW wind.

[CrappieNight]

Are you planning on doing the labor yourself? If not, I would suggest having the installer do the measuring and ordering.

If you are looking for a long term solution, I would suggest staying away from wood. Vinyl windows (quality vinyl windows, not from your big box store) are the best long term solution.

If you are interested in a boring yet educational talk then I can certainly meet up with you and teach you all you need to know about windows.

My office is in Ham Lake so I'm in the north 'burbs daily.

Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

[cavalierowner]

Vinyl vs. clad wood...the never-ending debate. Look at the house you live in and the houses in your neighborhood. Think about resale value and who you might be competing with some day. I didn't even consider vinyl when I put new windows in my house a couple years ago. But when I put in new windows in my duplexes, I didn't even consider wood.

Regardless of which you go with, get a high quality window. As an architect, I always did clad wood windows from the "Big Three": Anderson, Pella, Marvin. And if budget was not an issue, it was H Windows. To be honest, I'm not sure which vinyl windows are good; some windows I've seen appear to be held together by the glass. Whatever you do, don't buy a cheap window just to save a few bucks. Windows should be considered an investment and you (mostly) get what you pay for.

In either wood or vinyl, I go straight to the technical data and look at air and water infiltration, wind resistance and TOTAL unit u value (not just glass u value).

And yes, Steve is right, if you're going to have someone else install them, let the installer measure and order. That way if there's a mistake, it's not your problem.

[Tom7227]

When I was going to do the new window thing 15 years ago what got me was the realization that new windows are required to meet code - at least that's what I was told. Larger openings in the bedrooms was a big issue. Tearing out the old windows wasn't a big deal but cutting larger holes would have required all new trim as well as re-doing the walls. I was lucky enough not to have excessive rot so what I did was to get just the sashes and then had the windows wrapped with aluminum. We were residing the house and so the whole thing slid together pretty well.

You may want to verify the need to meet codes. Maybe no one cares in Stacy.

[delcecchi]

When I was going to do the new window thing 15 years ago what got me was the realization that new windows are required to meet code - at least that's what I was told. Larger openings in the bedrooms was a big issue. Tearing out the old windows wasn't a big deal but cutting larger holes would have required all new trim as well as re-doing the walls. I was lucky enough not to have excessive rot so what I did was to get just the sashes and then had the windows wrapped with aluminum. We were residing the house and so the whole thing slid together pretty well.

You may want to verify the need to meet codes. Maybe no one cares in Stacy.

In Rochester if it is just replacing the old windows with the same size you don't have to make the openings code (no egress).

[CrappieNight]

I believe every city can adopt an interpretation of the code. Most cities will allow the direct replacement of a window that does not meet egress as long as it is the same style, if you change from a casement to a double hung then you need to meet egress code with the new window.

Some cities will allow 5.0 sq. ft. of openable space at grade level and some still require 5.7 sq. ft.

If you are at all concerned about it, call the city and verify whether or not your replacement plans are code compliant.

There are a lot of codes regarding tempered glass, as well. Best suggestion would be to do your homework ahead of time to eliminate compliance issues down the road.

[Moose]

We did ours about 10 years ago best investment we ever made to the house especially if you plan on staying there. We had some rot and the installer took it out and replaced it with new wood then wrapped the outsides in aluminum. We went with triple pane with some kind of interior gas which I cannot remember inserts which means they use the existing frames and put vinyl clad windows in. We lost a little of our viewing area but you just don't notice it after a while. You will be amazed at how quite it will be in your house after the replacement. We did 20 windows and a sliding patio door for about $15,000.00 and because it was a true home improvement we got a pretty good rate for a home equity loan. Also check with your installer for federal state and local energy rebates. The company we used was out of Elk River and has Exterior in it's name. The windows and door have a lifetime warranty and it was a 2 day install once the windows were ordered and came in which takes a little time as the windows are custom made to fit your openings.

[caseymcq]

... I'm not sure which vinyl windows are good; ...

We bought a house two years ago, the sliding glass door and all the windows were shot. We just replaced all of that with Sunrise replacement windows and sliding glass door. They seem to be quality. We went with "wood look" on the main level and white upstairs. It has been a huge improvement over the worn out wood frame windows. Definitely an improvment in keeping the air leaks out. The other benefit that I had not expected was these are much quieter. When the wind blew like a banshee our old windows howled to beat the band. These windows, not a peep. Noises outside are muffled much better. I have been impressed with the functionality of the windows too. We got the outsides aluminum wrapped with I think was worth the extra $$.

[K_Josh87]

There are also great options out there for brickmould to brickmould replacements, these have always worked out very well for me. Marvin makes a very nice window in this style, Lindsey and Hayfield are good windows IMO for the money, I have put a lot of hayfields in, they have installed nicely without any problems thus far... and are a more budget friendly window than say the Marvins, however, the marvins and andersons are a whole different realm of the window world! The BM to BM option allows one to replace the whole window unit, without disrupting the siding, and insulate properly around the inside, and new trim is almost always required on the inside...