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Otters NEW Ice Houses


Northlander

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The insulating fibers used cannot absorb water. The shell can, but no different than a non insulated shell or non insulted Otter. The denier fabric is very tight weave making the shell water resistant. They also did not insulate the storm flap or skirt so that will also help prevent any water trouble. As for the weight the pro lodge is about 10-15 lbs heavier than its non insulated counterpart. I actually laughed a little when I was told this as now I only need to carry a 5 lb or two 1 lb propane cylinders verses a bulky twenty 20 pounder. I say a little weight for not having to deal with the bulky propane tank and getting rained on when its super cold is a huge plus.

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You're right about that Johnny P, I had a full 20# tank when we started the

season last year, ended up only using about a quarter tank all year. Gotta

downsize my tank, no use hauling a big tank anymore. Not to mention the cost

of propane ain't gettin any cheaper.

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Ya I think its time to go from my 10# shortie pig tank to a 5# or something like that. Im going to see if my basecamp coleman will heat up my lodge if not I will just use it in my cabin. Im really excited to see how much warmer these bad boys will be.

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Ya I think its time to go from my 10# shortie pig tank to a 5# or something like that. Im going to see if my basecamp coleman will heat up my lodge if not I will just use it in my cabin. Im really excited to see how much warmer these bad boys will be.

I've no doubt you'll be plesantly surprised. Another thing about the insulated

canvas is it doesn't flap in the wind, that's when you really notice the difference. I remember blowing threw a whole 20# tank of propane on a windy

day TRYING to stay warm on MilleLacs, with an uninsulated house. I really

think these insulated houses are going to be the new standard.

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As long as a guy unloads all his gear out of the houses its easy to get them in the truck. I find my Lodge is easier to get in the truck than my Cabin because ut sits on the tailgate easier while I get the back end up and puched in. I always have done it that way and it works fine. Now if you have 100# of stuff in any house it will be a back breaker to lift in the truck. Ya these will be heavier but Im excited to see how much propane I will save and how much less I can take on a weekend trip. Im guessing my 20#er will stay at home and the 11#er will be used a lot more. Maybe even a 5#er.

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I called Otter yesterday on the weights on the HSOforum and haven't got a call back yet but no way is the cabin only 60# like it says because I put my old purple otter with the round poles on the scale and it weighed 56#. I think they need to update the weights still because I was on the site the other day before the new houses where up and the weight never changed.

I have a Canvas Craft R2tec Med and it weighs 88# with a hyfax kit on it and would love to up size to the the lodge or Magnum for more room but 88# without seats is as much as I want to lift and pull around so I would love to know what the actual weights are going to be since Otter uses aluminum poles instead of metal like C.C.

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I called Otter yesterday on the weights on the HSOforum and haven't got a call back yet but no way is the cabin only 60# like it says because I put my old purple otter with the round poles on the scale and it weighed 56#. I think they need to update the weights still because I was on the site the other day before the new houses where up and the weight never changed.

I have a Canvas Craft R2tec Med and it weighs 88# with a hyfax kit on it and would love to up size to the the lodge or Magnum for more room but 88# without seats is as much as I want to lift and pull around so I would love to know what the actual weights are going to be since Otter uses aluminum poles instead of metal like C.C.

On the HSOforum it looks like the house and frame by themselves way 60lbs. With the seats and sled it's 95lbs.

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My seats are the black new style but have the older aluminum support instead of plastic and weigh 13# each so if they were to weight the same it would be 95# - 26# for seats that would be 69# for just the house and sled which would be 19# lighter then my C.C so that would be awesome!

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I have the Canvas Craft Northlander Magnum sled with the R2 Norpac insulated material. The otter Lodge is the same size. I can lift that into the truck by myself. You just pull the top part on tailgate & go to the back & push it in. Sure works easier with two guys, but is not hard for one guy. I can tell you the insulated houses are the only way to go! Toasty warm when it is -18 deg, no dripping one you & they fold up nice. I still have not got an answer on what is the R factor on this new otters. Who makes the insulation covers for them? Anyone know?

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a tip for loading a otter full of gear in the back of the truck,

4 wheeler ramps. i have a longer rope on mine so i push the front up to the ramps then get in the back of the truck and pull it up. works very well.

i even thought about mounting a cheap 4 wheeler winch in the front of the box to pull it up. or just a come-a-long and crank it up. it gets ice in the back of the truck sometimes.

i know its another thing to haul around but it works good for me.

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Getting that time where the Otter comes out and gets looked over to see how it made it over the summer. So far so good. I cant wait to get the new Insulated Otters out on the ice and see how warm them mbabies are. I think they will be worth their weight in propane. wink

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
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    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
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