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Roofmelt pellets


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The roof melt pellets wont totally get rid of ice dams. All they are meant to do is melt a channel through the ice dam so that water cannot back up. The pellets are made of calcium chloride. You can buy a 50 lb bag of calcium chloride for about the same price as a 14 lb bucket of the pellets. Fill up a nylon with the stuff from the bag, throw it up on the roof and you have roof melt.

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Last year I filed the rain gutters with water softer salt, no ice dams all season. I had the water run into areas so it would not harm lawn or flower beds.

Jim - any indication of residue from the salt anyplace on the house? This may be an effective solution but it sure would seem to create problems in the future with some really dead zone someplace on the property from the salt.

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Have been using the ice pucks for a few weeks now and they do help to make channels in the ice dam. The trick is to place them on the ice dam on either the roof or off a ladder. The directions call for lobbing them on the roof from the ground. When you put them were you want them they work good.

A lot cheaper than $350 an hour for steaming!

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I picked up some of these for a problem in one of the valley's on my roof, I don't think I am going to "throw" them up there I need to either find a way up to the top of a slippery roof or get one of my buddies with his forklift to lived me right over it.

I have a feeling if I throw them I might take out a window lol

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what i did was duct taped a large plastic cup to the end of the handle of my roof rake at a angle and poured the pellets in the cup and lifted it up to my gutter where the ice jam was and have had no problem since. not very scientific but i'm not that mecanical but it did the trick. the long handle reached any area i had a problem. good luck.

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I'm using softener salt. What is so harsh about it vs the other products? Mine is draining on rocks that I use around the perimeter of my home. I have new shingles and I don't want to degrade them.

Truthfully, I'm not sure. My father and I had this debate about a month ago and he brought enough documentation to me, that it swayed me not to use any more softener salt. But I had already put 80lbs up on the roof, so oh well.

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Cigarguy,

Rock salt wont work at the lower temps we get here in MN as a rule. the other options are a better choice but are more expensive.

As far as damage to plants and other things. I use the bio friendly option because I dont or want the headache associated with rock salt( plants and concrete). In my research online I'm finding that our MN thaw cycle should basically wash the salt away where it isn't any concern. Like others have said look at our roadsides.

Shingle damage, I asked my roofer who does a TON of ice dams during the winter what effect it would have on shingles. He said the older types it could effect them as they were organic. The newer shingles no problem. What that means I'm not sure.

IMO use a roof sock ( plain old panty hose filled with deicer) layed across the dam, create a channel and let it work is the best bet as a homeowner. Me I'm going to break the dam up and use the sock. But i know where to stop with a hammer. Im not a fan of the pucks!!! Use a sock!!!

I wouldn't be worried about your rock landscaping if it were me personally. UNLESS you are putting 400 lbs of salt up there in one area. Then I wouldn't be looking for anything to be growing there for a few years. smile

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Thanks for the replies. I also have tried and use the nylon sock deal. I just bought a bag of softener salt today. I only have to use it in one area. Last time I used it I got the channels cleared and also knocked down a high spot in the valley by the gutter. The dang valley goes down right to where the vaulted ceiling is, so I can't get in the area to check out if anything is blocking the air flow. I checked out the heated cables at Fleet Farm today. The cable runs about $1.00 per foot. I'll buy a 30' box at the end of the season and use it next year.

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Keep in mind when you buy the cable that it needs to be long enough to zig zag from the gutter up and down the roof to a point above the overhang every 18 inches or so, as well as go along the length of the gutter and into the downspout. There are instructions on the box. You should know the length of the gutter and the depth of your overhang before you buy.

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