Learn to free your dog from a trap

[Scott M]

Tragedy a cautionary tale for hunting dog owners

by Bill Marschel, Star Tribune

PINE RIVER, MINN. — It was shortly after noon when Mike Marvin of Pine River left his truck with shotgun in hand. Eagerly bounding ahead of Marvin was Faith, his 9-month-old yellow Lab. With the ruffed grouse hunting season waning, he hoped the adolescent dog would find and flush a bird or two.

The sky was cloudy and a slight southerly breeze wafted through the aspens as man and dog plied the forest. An inch or two of snow covered the ground. Weatherwise, it was typical for mid-December.

Tragically, though, the day would not end typically.

By midafternoon, Marvin and Faith had flushed four grouse. Now, as Faith explored the various forest scents, the young dog's nose drew her to a fate that would forever change her owner.

Suddenly and to Marvin's horror, he realized Faith had stuck her head into the jaws of a body-gripping trap set most likely in an attempt to capture a bobcat. The trap was firmly locked past the head and across the throat and neck of the 60-pound dog.

"I arrived at Faith's side within 10 seconds," Marvin said. "She stopped pawing the ground and looked at me fully aware."

The trap that gripped Marvin's dog had jaws that spread roughly 7 inches across and were held tightly closed by springs on two sides. Body-gripping traps like this are often referred to as conibear-type traps.

Marvin tried immediately to compress the springs in an attempt to free his dog.

"Using both hands I got the right side spring to within an inch or an inch and a half of being able to lock it," Marvin said.

During his effort to free his suffocating dog, Marvin screamed for help at the top of his lungs. "I knew there was no one within hearing," he said.

It was all over within two or three minutes. Faith was gone.

With the trap still fixed to the throat of his dog, Marvin transported her body home, where he unveiled the horrible news to his family, his voice choked with emotion and hoarse from yelling for help.

Ten days later, Marvin's thumb still aches from attempting to compress the spring on the trap. He is sleeping better at night, but the terrible event remains vivid in his mind.

It appears no laws were broken by the trapper responsible for setting the trap. According to DNR trapping regulations, the trap had a jaw width within the legal limits. The law reads, "A person may not set, place or operate any body-gripping or conibear-type trap with a jaw opening greater than 7 1/2 inches, except as a water set."

"I'm not an anti-trapper," said Marvin, who is an optometrist. "I have a number of patients who trap, and I respect them. No trapper I know wants to catch someone's dog, and they would feel terrible if they did.

"But somehow, hunters with dogs need to know trappers are in the area. If I get another dog, I won't be out hunting when there could be traps set."

Is there a way Marvin's tragic loss could have been avoided?

Trappers and hunters have explored various options. Trapping associations often give seminars on how to quickly and effectively free a dog from a body-gripping trap. In addition, the Minnesota Trappers Association has, for the past several years, purchased a one-page ad in the Minnesota Hunting and Trapping Regulations showing how to remove a domestic animal from a body-gripping trap. This year the ad is on page 53.

On page 45 of the 2009 Minnesota Hunting and Trapping Regulations Handbook, in a box marked "Important!" and highlighted in orange, the DNR cautions trappers and hunting dog owners of the potential problem.

There are no known statistics on how many hunting dogs die in legally set body-gripping traps. Suffice to say it is a relatively rare occurrence.

That knowledge is of little consolation to Marvin and his family.

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This shouldn't be a trappers versus hunters thread. Hopefully someone sees this and finds out for themselves how to free a stuck dog. A good buddy of mine freed one of his dog from a trap this fall, said it scared the carp out of him.

Check out page 53 of the paper copy of the hunting regs.

[kentuck_ike]

That is so sad. As a dog breeder, I include a page in my info packet on these traps and point it out to customers. This story has mean thinking about purchasing a trap and physically showing each puppy customer how they work and having them try to work them.

Thanks for sharing. I would like to hear suggestions on how to educate people buying pups from me.

Ike

[Todd Caswell]

Thats really sad, your right learn how to compress the springs, I always carry a short piece of rope in my hunting vest, never have had use it but you never know.

[candiru]

I have experience with 110 conibears. I would like to see the trappers set up a booth at game fair, sports shows, or some of the larger stores on busy weekends. I think that it would help a lot if folks could get some actual hands-on with these traps instead of just looking at drawings. Maybe they do this already and I just haven't seen it.

It would be kind of a desparate measure but I wonder if it would work to shoot the end of these springs with a shotgun at real close range. Kind of desparate but if the alternative is a dead dog it would be worth a try.

[Dave S]

I'm at work right now and can't get to the "Tube" due to firewall restrictions, but if there's a vid somewhere or if someone could make one and post it, that would set a lot of minds at ease if they could actually see it done.

[croixflats]

I have experience with 110 conibears. I would like to see the trappers set up a booth at game fair, sports shows, or some of the larger stores on busy weekends. I think that it would help a lot if folks could get some actual hands-on with these traps instead of just looking at drawings. Maybe they do this already and I just haven't seen it.

It would be kind of a desparate measure but I wonder if it would work to shoot the end of these springs with a shotgun at real close range. Kind of desparate but if the alternative is a dead dog it would be worth a try.

The 110 s are not the ones to worry as much about its the 220 that are worrisome.

Some cases hand strength will not close the springs of a 7 inch 220 with a dog or critter in the trap. A rope is the best alternative but be sure to act fast as with a 220 you have little time. They say throwing your jacket will calm the dog but then again you will working blind trying to release the trap.

Remember these conibears 220s are designed to kill bobcats and the likes fast.

The best bet is carry a bolt cutters big enough to cut the steel spring but the likely hood of carrying something that size is nil.

[walleyes12]

Let me first say, as a trapper its my worst fear to catch someones dog!!! Thats why common sense needs to be in order. Also I agree that bird hunters and trappers need to work together, and not point fingers at each other.

I will try to post a video, of how to set and free an animal from a 220 conibear. I am also posting a picture of a "pair of setters" its what trappers use to set these traps. I carry a pair in my hunting vest at all times. It takes 5 seconds to free an animal with a pair of " setters"

If your dog is caught in a conibear. Please stay calm and take control of the situation as fast as you can. grab a hold of both springs and control your dog. Then work on one spring. If you can get one spring compressed and set, it will take alot of pressure off the dogs neck. Once you got one spring compressed, you can squeeze the second spring, and with the other hand try to open the trap, that will take any pressure of the dogs throat. Again the key is to get one spring compressed and set. Take both hands and squeeze, they are tough, but can be done.

Pair of setters, these setters can be bought at scheels, Gander MT, ect

220 conibear

Take the setters and hook the base of the spring with each hook of the setters. The base of the conibear in the picture is the circle connected to the actual trap. There are two bases per spring, compress the setters and set the saftey latch.

[Dave S]

Now this is what I'm talking about. Info like this is what we all need. If I knew there were conibears in an area I usually hunt, I'd personally keep my dogs out and not take the risk. But you can count on me finding a pair of setters.

Thanks for this info walleyes12.

[lenny7]

walleyes12, thanks for the great info.

how long are the setters?

[walleyes12]

Just off the top of my head, I believe they are 18"-24". I have one pair in my truck, and one pair fits in my hunting vest. I believe they are $7.95, thats what they were when I paid for them

[lenny7]

I searched youtube and if you go there and search for "Conibear 220, 280 and 330 Set with Basic Setters" you can see how they set them.

If you search on "setting a conibear trap with rope method" there's a guy using a rope but I can't really see it well enough to tell what he's doing.

I never thought this risk until this year when I found out my cousin was trapping near a shelterbelt where we pheasant hunt.

[croixflats]

Yes, thanks walleyes12, those setters look to be the ticket. Better than lugging bolt cutters around and ruining a good piece of equipment. I also looked around and what looks to be another good alternative and compact.

Essentially a heavier safety latch with a chain attached to it with a t bar on the other end. Feed the safety latch through one eye of the spring and hook bottom eye of spring. Pull up on chain and t bar while pushing down on the top spring then latch safety latch to upper eye. Then proceed to repeat on the other spring.

I like this as this can be carried in pocket vest quit easily. Cant say witch would be better to use but they both make it easier and faster.

[Perch_44]

here is a page i found years ago that shows how to release a few different types of traps.

http://www.terrierman.com/traprelease.htm

[311Hemi]

here is a page i found years ago that shows how to release a few different types of traps.

http://www.terrierman.com/traprelease.htm

This is the page I have printed out and with me in the truck (which I now realize it to late). Going to have to start carrying it with me in my pocket.

[duckbuster]

Walleye, will those work on a 330?

110's I could do with my hands. 220's were very difficult to do with my hands, mostly used my feet. A 330 on the other hand was with the feet only.

Although, I think if a dog were to tangle with a 330 it would be over by the time you got to your dog.

THANKS

[BoxMN]

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. I now know what to do, as I didn't before, even after quickly reading the reg booklet info.

Sorry to hear of anyone's loss of their pooch, especially in such a tragic manner. This post may have just saved one or more dogs' lives in the future.

[candiru]

Another thing to keep in mind is that there are snares out there. (at least in some states, ND for sure). I know someone that hunted with somebody that had a dog caught in a snare in some heavy cover. They found the dog and had to do CPR/ mouth-to-muzzle to bring it back.

[Dave S]

walleyes12,

would the setter still work ok if the handles were a little shorter? I realize it may decrease the amount of leverage you'd have trying to set the springs. Would it really increase it that much if a person were to shorten the handles by 6" to make it easier/lighter to carry in a hunting jacket?

[JayinMN]

Candiru brings up a good point too, snares are legal in MN and a pair of wire cutters can come in handy while out in the field.

LEP7MM,

Setters come in different sizes. I had a short handled pair that I used and they worked very well till I lost them. I would guess they were about 10 inches long. If you can't find a smaller pair I am sure you could saw them down to size.

Another thought here, I would think with an e-collar a person could train their dog to stay away from a traps. My dogs learned quick to not touch electric fences. All it took was one or two zaps and that was it. I am sure they could learn to not touch a trap either if they got a shock for going into one. Make a few mock sets and set the dog up for a lesson. In the south they train dogs in a similar fashion to avoid snakes. Its a hard lesson to learn but it could be a life saver.

[walleyes12]

Sorry for the delay response

Duckbuster- yes they will work on 330s

Lep7mm- yes they will work with shorter handles, just need alittle more effort, but still 90% easier than squeezing with your hands!

JayinMN - you are correct you can train your dog to stay away from traps. I have done this with my 1 1/2 yr old springer. he will not go within 20 yards of a conibear or a foot hold.

[duckbuster]

It has been many years for me since I put a 220 thru the ice for the elusive Beaver. But I certainly remember that a 330 was NOT going to get set without the help of my feet. I remember thinking a guy would have to be herculine to open and set a 330 with his hands only.

If the setter can squeeze those springs and you CAN do it with your hands only I would say WOW they must be pretty darn good.

Thanks

[brittman]

Thats really sad, your right learn how to compress the springs, I always carry a short piece of rope in my hunting vest, never have had use it but you never know.

If you have not practiced - the rope may not do much good.

[brittman]

A good read on #220, setting tools, etc..

http://www.captaindaves.com/buckshot/220.htm

If you go and search internet sales and AUCTION sites ... you will see at least three different types of conibear trap setting tools for sale.

The scissors (tongs) type (Duke or Sleepy Creek Model #4 trap setter)

a caulk gun (Robbie) type

foot activated (GEM Setter) type

use of each style can be found on youtube.

The GEM setter type looks managable in a vest and easy to use. Anyone have experience with this type?

[vister]

Another thought here, I would think with an e-collar a person could train their dog to stay away from a traps. My dogs learned quick to not touch electric fences. All it took was one or two zaps and that was it. I am sure they could learn to not touch a trap either if they got a shock for going into one. Make a few mock sets and set the dog up for a lesson. In the south they train dogs in a similar fashion to avoid snakes. Its a hard lesson to learn but it could be a life saver.

thats sad hearing a dog go like that. but regarding the quote, i worry more about snapping turtles than traps. i guess because we hunt private ground where there is no traps. but if a guy can train a dog to avoid traps, can you train them to avoid snapping turtles? its never an issue while hunting, but snappers always go through the yard from the riverbottom to a pond across the road to lay eggs, and the dogs always raise cane with them in the yard. just waiting for the trip to the vet for stitches.

[FCspringer]

It has been many years for me since I put a 220 thru the ice for the elusive Beaver. But I certainly remember that a 330 was NOT going to get set without the help of my feet. I remember thinking a guy would have to be herculine to open and set a 330 with his hands only.

If the setter can squeeze those springs and you CAN do it with your hands only I would say WOW they must be pretty darn good.

Thanks

Our trapper friend offered great info in the earlier posts, as did you here. I trapped for many years. I have not for a long time. Sadly I did lose a coon dog to one as well, mainly because I was no where near to get the dog out. As houndsmen we turned them out and they went a long ways, so I have been on both sides.

It is important to remember that trappers are a great part, in managing preditors for nesting birds to survive. I wish there were more of them now that there is little fur market.

But Anyway, the tongs for setting a 220 or 330 do work well and alot easier for someone, But, there are few, to no hunters out there that will ever buy, or carry one. They are bulky and the Iron ones get heavy when added to other gear. It is in fact, a very rare occurance for a trap to catch a dog, trappers understand the importance of success, and by placing a trap in an area likely to have dogs running by is very rare. They put them in areas to avoid this kind of thing, because the way they earn thier prise and a few $, is by catching fur. It is more important to them then one knows.

But in the case it happens, if you dont have a tong, you can do it. I can set 330's by hand and 220's easily. There are different manufactures of these traps that will have much tougher springs then others. Check out the other post on this for the rope tecnique.

The important thing is when you sqweeze the spring togeather, you want the hook slid towards the loop on the trap frame side, and hanging down, so when you sqweeze it togeather, it can slip over the oppisite rod of the spring and hook,if you have the hook hanging down towards the ground, you can't flip it over because your using both hands, so make sure you situate the dog so when you sqweeze the spring, the hook is on the upper side hanging downward ready to catch the bottom of the spring 1/2, that keeps it in place and is no longer applying any preasure.

This is hard to grasp from anyone typing.

Thats what he meant by set. Then as he said grab both ends of the other spring having the hook slid towards the trap again, you again may have to ajust the dog to get the hook hanging right again, and sqweeze, and hook the other hook, Many times on these traps the hooks are on different sides of the other spring. at this time there is no preasure on the jaws or rod frame, and you can pull the square frame open and get the dog out.

Some times the 2nd hook is missing, so when you get one done, you have to Sqweeze the spring without the hook last, and apply enough preasure on the frame with a knee, and work your hands over to the frame, opening it in one move, Then you have to hold it and pull the animal out, set the triger latch, and then set it down, or toss it. Just don't ever try to let preasure off slowly by hand.

You can do this in about 15 seconds average, 5 seconds if you have a setter and nothing in the trap.

If you learn how to do this by hand, you will get it done faster then diging around in your vest for the tongs. If you can't do it by hand, then the tongs or rope, are your only options.

One more thing to remember is once both hooks have the springs locked, and you sqweeze it open, press the jaws all the way open and don't let go. with one hand you can easily hold it all the way open. If you stay focused, and grip firmly, its not hard, but you don't want to let go at this point yet. With one hand holding the trap frame all the way open, and the other hand has pulled the dogs head out, slide those little catch hooks down on the springs till they are hooked snugly on both sides of the springs again.

When openend, it squeezes the springs farther then you had it, and offten more times then not those hooks will fall again, leaving the trap live to spring again, catching you or your dog all over. And they do hurt your hand, and then it is dificult to get off with one hand in it, been there done that. So key, remember to make sure little hooks stay snug on springs, both of them, when you go to release it and set it down. It is harmless with those springs hooked.

Some times when you want to remove something from a trap those hooks are snaged in part of the trap, you have to swueeze and free it just by wiggleing the spring and tilt it at the same time, so the hook slides up the spring then tilt the spring so it swings over to hook. If one hook is snaged do the other one right away first. If they both are pick one and start.

If you realy want to know you should have it shown by someone who knows. You can buy these traps at fleet farm and many places with instructions how to do it. You can practise with it stuffing old stuffed toys in it or something to be realistic, and do it offten so you see what I mean by the hooks snaging.

Some times, well quite offten, the spring loops that are attatched to the frame, when sprung, will slide around to the next side of the frame a bit, couple ", and you cannot sqweeze the spring till you slide it back to the side its suposed to be on.

So they can be tricky and confusing, thats the worst part of them. Once you figure it out it is relitively easy. I am lucky to know, but learned trapping. I would be happy to put on a demo some place. I still have all my traps of varrious shapes and sizes. So far in all the years hunting, I have not had to deal with this with bird dogs, water or land. It was more common back in the hay day of the fur market to get a coon dog caught in one, and that was rare. They can be bought cheap and you can learn to do it.

Don't count on anything anyone here tells you, you need to learn your self first hand to be effective at it.