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Deisels


1900_LE

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When I ran my 1985 6.9L I had the best performance using #1 diesel. I began blending about 50-50 when the nighttime temps started dipping below 10 degrees. If the forecast called for temps below about -15 I began running 100%.

Err on the side of caution. Better to blend strong than lean. I never had much luck using anti-gels or "arctic diesel." My truck performance took a nosedive and I could feel the fuel was semi-gelling on cold mornings although it didn't completely stop things.

The thing is, once diesel gels, the only way to liquify it again is to get it back up above 40-45 degrees and even then, you may have to replace your fuel filter.

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As a diesel owner I have never had a gel up. Some precautions to take are to use a grille cover and add anti-gel to your diesel. Also, start the season with a new fuel filter. At the filter is where gelled diesel will first become a problem.

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Never had a problem with the fuel gelling... I buy fuel at any gas station... They are all blened during the cold season... I do use additive ( not sure if its worth it but keep using). The biggest thing IMO is to plug the truck in when the temp gets single digits.... I know it will start without it but its much easier on the piece of equipment.

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Went to diesel school and we did test on all additives made in 2003. The best and only one that wont gel is #1 diesel. I could not believe it, but thats what it was. I have left mine on the lake and had it barely start after sitting two days. Definitly have a winter guard for front if sitting on ice use #1 . And now i have a generator and cord if the truck will be sitting there for a day or more. Just starts so much better and if only going to sit there for a few hours should be fine.

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For the last 9 years, I have accumulated over 300,000 miles on a Cummins powered Dodge.

I have always run a fuel additive in every tank, mostly Power Service in the white bottle. It help with lubing the injection pump, and bumps up the cetane a notch. Note, I am still on my original injector pump and injectors....knock on wood.

I have only ever had gelling issues once. It was last winter and it was really cold, -43 by the truck thermometer. I was bringing my daughter to school, which is a three mile drive. After about a half mile, it started to cough, sputter and smoke. By the time I got to town, it was hitting on about 2 injectors. I limped to the gas station, and dumped a bottle of Diesel 911 into the tank. I let it idle for 20 minutes, and it ran a little better. Drove it for a bit, the let it continue to idle. The additive worked its way through and I had no more issues.

I had driven a lot in previous years, with a fair amount of driving in the 20-30 below range and have never had an issue prior to that.

Most winter blends of diesel are just fine down to about -30. At -40, there is not much you can do.

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LOWJS8.jpg

Here's a pic of -36 from last winter driving to Lake of the Woods. It started perfect with it plugged in. I've never added #1 to my tank, but almost all fuel is blended to different specs for the cold seasons. Some stations advertise the blends, and some don't. I usually go with #2 and additives. Never had a problem in my '00 F250 7.3L

I will add, the best thing I bought for the truck was a snap on cold air cover over the grill. The truck runs so much better and mileage is better. Cabelas sells a kit.

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I had trouble one time and that was my first year in a deisel, Fuel Filter was the culprit, after that, every fall I change the filter.

Seldom do I add additives, I just run blend fuel from the pumps, no problems even down to -35 or more.

GM dealer told me not to even plug the truck in until it goes below zero.

Mike

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GM dealer told me not to even plug the truck in until it goes below zero.

That's odd, since plugging the truck in doesn't hurt it at all when it gets cold out, and eases the strain on the starting system. Why wouldn't you plug it in if you had access to an outlet?

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if you want your electic bill to jump up $50 then go aheaded and plug it in all the time

Ah yes! My bad. Never had to pay the electric bill when I've had a diesel. But how much does it cost to replace the components of the starting system if they wear out. And how much do the additives cost that you put in to avoid having to plug it in? Just playing a bit of devil's advocate here, as $50 bucks a month for extra electricity is pretty pricey, and probably only 1 in 15 trucks will blow their starters in this situation.

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Quote:
And how much do the additives cost that you put in to avoid having to plug it in?

What additives are you guys talking about that reduce the need to plug it in? Plugging it in only keeps the engine coolant warm, not the fuel.

In most cases, the gelling is a problem when your engine tries to draw the cold gelled fuel through the filter and plugs it up. You can plug the engine in 24 hours a day and if it's cold enough to gel the fuel, it will gel.

I hear you on the plugging it in thing though.

A typical soft plug heater is what, 400w? A 400w block heater plugged in for 10 hours every night five nights a week at $.10/kwh will cost you about $8.00/month. I had to replace my engine starter on my 1985 6.9L once. It cost me nearly $300.00 for a rebuilt starter and I installed it myself. I won’t spend $300 over the course of 10 years plugging my truck in.

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One thing to be aware of when using fuel additives is that many will void your warranty if they contain alcohol. The water separates from the fuel and the high pressure fuel injection systems do not like water, more specifically the injectors. The water may as well be sand getting pushed through the nozzles at those high pressures...it'll eat them up.

I only plug my truck in when it gets near zero but that is just to make it easier on it during the cold starts. It will start very well even when the temps go negative so if I'm not near an outlet I don't worry too much. The glow plugs will fire a little longer and it'll run a little rougher after lighting off, but she'll start even when it gets down to -20 degrees.

If I know I'm going to be out and about in those temps I'll still cut the winter blend with a little #1 fuel just to have a piece of mind in those bitter temps. When the fuel gels and the engine stops you have no heat and the feet will get cold in a hurry, so you better have a plan because it's not like you can idle there and wait for help. If you're lucky it may still idle and you can at least get some cab heat until help arrives.....just don't shut it off or it may not start again until you can treat the fuel, change filters, etc.

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when my '99 7.3 gelled up on me, i was on my way to LOW, not sure how cold it was but it was pretty cold out there. I was driving for about 4 hours, then i noticed the smoke out of the exhaust quit comin out then it started to sputter, i pulled over quick and it would idle but would not drive. i then added the diesal 911 into the tank, let it idle for a while, and eventually worked it through and made it the rest of the weekend with no problems.

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Much like dabaer stated, the only time I have had a gel up problem was while driving in some pretty frigid temps. Add some anti gel fluid and let her run for a good hour and the fuel recycle rate on my 07 Duramax was fine. I park outside all winter, just because my garage is filled with fish houses and toys. YIKES! But hey, my wife still loves me!!! BONUS!

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Actually, it wasn't the power bill I was worried about, the dealer told me that not to plug it in until it went below zero because if it was warmer, it ' might ' produce a engine code.

I'm not sure if it would or not but I guess I have followed it and never had trouble.

Mike

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I run a fuel additive all year round. Power Service has one for the summer time, then an anti-gelling additive product for the winter time. It not only helps with anti-gelling but also helps the injectors as previously noted by Gissert. There have been tests done on who has the better additive, Power Service is not the best of the best, but it's up there and it works. Also I can find it at my local FF where as the others are harder to find.

Keep a bottle of Diesel 911 in your truck...it's a life saver if you can get it in on time if you do start gelling.

As noted by BobT plugging in your truck won't prevent fuel from gelling. It makes it for a much easier start up though. If your worried about the electricity used, get a timer to have it plugged in for only 3-4 hours in the morning before your going to start it. That's what I do. There really is no need to have it plugged in longer unless it brings you more piece of mind.

Get a grill cover. Helps heat the engine quicker and kicks on the heat quicker in your cab as well. Can't go wrong with that.

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My '97 Chev gelled twice last winter. I've owned it since new and those were the only times it's ever gelled. I use #2 and additive year around. The new ultra-low sulfer definitely gels easier due to the addition of bio-diesel. I installed an inline Racor fuel filter with a heater in the bowl after it gelled last winter. The heater is thermostatically controlled, but I also added a switch. I agree that #1 is a good option, but it's not always available and due to the lower heat content your mileage will suffer with #1.

I'm running a 2 micron element in the Racor so I also get the added benefit of cleaner fuel to the injection pump and injectors. The stock filter is 10 microns.

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racor would be a great solution and pay for itself the first time you gel. they run on semis all the time so why not on your 3/4 ton? if a guy can get a shield also to trap hot exhaust under the body will help keep from gelling. the older fire trucks had a fuel and pumpheater that basically was a steel plate that kept the exhaust heat from scrubbing off and would keep everything warm. good luck, find out what the truckers are using for anti gel too.

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