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Bass Photos

bassNspear

By bassNspear
in Bass

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Wanderer
Wanderer

22 x 15 smallie.  Weighed 7.5 lbs on my digital scale that was later confirmed with an 8lb weight back on shore.  My bro said he hadn't seen me come that unglued on a fish in over 20 years!  I wei

Craigums
Craigums

20''

smalliehunter
smalliehunter

6.04 6.02 5.05

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carpmanjake Mentor

carpmanjake

Posted
Posted

Looks like Jake got a boat and just in time for fall... Look-out!

actually had it since earlier this summer. i just cant transport it with my grand prix. lol. so it stays at the house for when i want to catch some topwater bass.

like today i was doing some yardwork and i look out to the lake and bass were exploding everywhere so when i was done i hit the lake. and lost plenty of nice ones due to short strikes. but caught that girl and a few smaller ones.

wish i woulda went out yesterday now. lol. litterally ever minute there were 3 or 4 blow ups on that weedy flat.

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Southwick Apprentice

Southwick

Posted
Posted

Southwick, around here we call those Musky lures grin

LOL..

No Musky stocking programs in the states I fish so we call them Northern Pike plugs but over the years I have learned that Big Northern strain LM love big wooden wake-baits like the 9+12” MS Slammer and the fall bite is always the best. A surprise NP like this one is always welcome when LM fishing.

full-39251-12652-full_39251_12619_mspike

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Nick Kuhn Grand Master

Nick Kuhn

Posted
Posted

Big baits work anywhere that's bassy. Part of using big baits is you can launch them a mile so areas where you want to cover a lot of water tend to work better. You will not catch much for numbers (at least bass-wise) but your average size will be impressive. The average bass I catch on my muskie baits is pretty close to 20" long.

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Southwick Apprentice

Southwick

Posted
Posted

So Southwick, do you have any specific areas you like throwing those big baits or just anywhere bassy?

In general, I fish wakebaits on main lake structures including flats, points, ledges and humps. Occasionally I will work through shorelines or backs of coves quickly, but I definitely tend to stay on primary main lake structure. Regardless of the type of structure, I almost always cast from shallow water to deep water. Here's how I approach my target area. I shut the big engine down a long way away from the structure, keep the electronics off and quietly ease into the spot I want my boat. I cast in front of the boat while doing this to make sure I'm not missing an opportunity. Once I've “cleared” the path for my boat I position in shallow water and begin making very long casts into deep water. On the types of lakes I fish (steep and clear), this usually puts my bait over very deep water. And that's exactly where I want it. Wakebaits have excellent drawing potential (I have no idea how far up a fish will come to get a wakebait but my feeling is that it's a long ways) and they are deadly on suspended fish. In my opinion, it's the suspended fish that account for the bulk of my catch. It's tough to convince yourself there are good fish roaming around in the middle of nowhere over deep water but you just have to have faith that they are there. Action tends to come quickly so I don't spend much time on each spot. I keep my eyes open for followers. If they don't bite I return later and try again (if I KNOW good fish are on a spot I will fish that spot many times during the day). Sometimes the fish will bite on the shallow part of the structure, sometimes in deep water close to the breaklines and sometimes out in the middle of nowhere. Many times you will drag a fish out of deep water and they will crush the bait close to the boat. Once I've fan casted the area with maybe 10 casts I leave. It's very common to catch a fish or two quickly before the fish lose interest, then return a little while later and stick a few more. You can repeat this all day long. Without a doubt the fish lose interest quickly so make the most of the first few casts. When I'm fishing flats I tend to concentrate very near the breakline but occasionally throw shallow onto the flat and out over real deep water. If I get bit in those areas then I investigate. You just never know where they will be. If a flat has submerged vegetation from the shoreline to the breakline I make sure I efficiently fan cast the whole flat. A flat with a good breakline and submerged vegetation can be spectacular at night.

Fish can be anywhere on any given day. But there's not enough time in one day to cover all options. By systematically and efficiently fishing main lake structures you increase the potential of encountering active, quality fish. Stick to the game plan and you will be successful.

Hope this helps.

Dan

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    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
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      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

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      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

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    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

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      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
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      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

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    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

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