Graph problem

[slammer]

My buddy just bought a boat(2000 Lund 1800 fish, 99 115hp Johnson) and we hooked up his new Lowrance X-27. Got power from one of the accessory switches and tried it out today and works fine. Heres the problem. With the graph on, every time you start the big motor, it kills power to the graph. Did we hook somthing up wrong? Is it some kind of a power surge or drain when you crank that motor? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[PerchJerker]

I suspect your battery is weak and when you crank the motor it drops the volts too low for the graph. Have the battery tested, or try using a different baattery if possible to make sure it's the culprit.

[slammer]

He said it was a brand new battery, fully charged. One thing I didnt check was the size of it. Would this matter? Maybe one with higher cranking amps would be better?

[croixflats]

Try hooking it up to adiffreant circuit.

Might be like when you start your car radio shuts of

[coop09]

I suspect the voltage is dropping too much and the graph shuts off. When you first crank the motor over, the voltage will drop quite a bit and you can watch that with a meter or right on the graph. Battery may be the problem, but it could also be all of the other stuff running off of the switch you got your power from. I think I would run a deticated power supply right from the battery to the graph. I would just try that before I went after the battery. Good luck.

[fish2live]

look to were it is grounded at. if it is grounded to a screw in the boat this is your problem. only ground to the battery.

[LMITOUT]

What Perchjerker said.

[Capt. Don*]

Doubt that battery is too small or weak. Depending on circuit, that switch may be interupted when starter circuit is engaged as mentioned earlier. Most likely is circuit is connected to starting circuit, when starter is engaged, current is robbed from accessory to supply starter. Either wire power and ground directly to battery, (this can lead to rats nests) or best solution is run new power and ground battery cables to a buss block under helm to supply accessories. This will solve voltage drops for good.

Good Luck

[slammer]

Thanks for the info guys. I think we will just run that switch right off a block from the battery like Capt Don suggests. Should we put an inline fuse in? What size? The graph is the only thing on that switch. Thanks

[Capt. Don*]

I have used some blocks that included fuses in the block, much like an automotive fuse block, they make for a neat, clean install. Don't use a fuse whether you go inline or built in that is larger than the fuse supplied with the unit.

[marine_man]

 Originally Posted By: Capt. Don

Most likely is circuit is connected to starting circuit, when starter is engaged, current is robbed from accessory to supply starter. Either wire power and ground directly to battery, (this can lead to rats nests) or best solution is run new power and ground battery cables to a buss block under helm to supply accessories. This will solve voltage drops for good.

If this locator is connected to one of the "Acc" switches on his Lund boat, the circuit is not tied into the starting circuit by any means - the gauges, key switch, trim and tilt, all motor related stuff get their power from the motor, and therfore from the main motor battery cables. Lund runs a seperate harness for all the boat's electrical stuff, and are not connected to the starting circuit.

I'd also guess it's battery related, or a corroded battery connection at the battery.

marine_man

[SM1]

Marine_man is correct, (this is my boat we are talking about here) the graph is connected to one of the "Acc" switches on the dash. The battery is brand new and had a full charge on it. There was no corrosion at the time I charged it. Unless the battery is not large enough, im not sure that it would be that battery. The battery is a marine deep cycle starting type.

[SM1]

The graph is currently wired to the starting battery. After talking to a dealer, they said it needs to be wired to the trolling motor battery instead and that would fix it. I should finally get to attempt to fix this tomorrow.

Does anyone run their graphs off the starting battery or just the trolling motor batteries? Seems like it should work off the starting batt but I guess not.

[delcecchi]

I run mine off the starting battery, now that you mention it.

[croixflats]

I run mine of the stater battery with no prb

[Charley]

connect directly to the starting battery both supply and ground.If that doesn't work call fish electronics or actions electronics and talk to them.

[PerchJerker]

Run your graph off the starting battery, if you run it off your trolling motor batteries you'll have interference issues.

[2thepointsetters]

3 amp in line fuse if you run straight off the battery. My new hummingbird 787ci was doing same thing yours is doing until I wired it straight to the battery. (I still see the voltage drop on the graph but it doesnt shut off now)

[Bandit]

I run mine off the starting battery also, have never had a problem. If you guys need a hand with it let me know, I would be happy to come over and take a look. 640-2118

[SM1]

Problem solved...so far. We left everything hooked up the same, but put it to a new ground on the block under the dash. When I start the motor the graph stays on. Hopefully thats all it takes.

Now I just need to figure out why my vhf wont transmit.

Thanks everyone for the input on the graph.

[blarkey]

had that same problem and it turned out to be the wing nut was not verry tight