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FM Ultimate Fish House


deadminnowcatcher

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sandman...i've seen 20,000 btu units on auction sites for about $300.

i'm not disagreeing with anyone on the forced air vs. direct vent. that's what deadminnow wants, that's what he gets, our purpose on here is to put our two cents in. when i build mine, it will have a forced air...another reason for it is that i don't want to worry about my little boy burning himself on the direct vent heater...they get hot.

how's the spray foam look? post pics when you can!

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I am looking for suggestions on how to run the wiring in the house. Walls are 2x2 construction and i am hesitant at drilling holes since they are only 2x2. Could go through ceiling joists but then would have to drill through 2x2 top plate to get into walls. Same with a gas line as i want to put a propane lite in the house. Looking for some good Ideas here.

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You could notch each of the 2x2's to run you lines between the cedar and the 2x's or i dont see that big of a problem drilling a hole the smallest you could to fit your wires through.

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Wiring doesn't take much of a whole, you should be fine. Also, you can get those little metal plates to put on the outside of the wood where you put the wire through. Helps to strengthen the wood and also you won't nail through the wires when puting up your siding and inside paneling.

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Just my thoughts but you should use conduit, to help ensure the wires wont rub when the house flexes as its raised or lowered. This will also ensure the wires are not in the way when you put up the finished cedar or the external siding. Plus if you decide after its done that you want to have another comfort feature just run a snake an pull it through. Never designed a house before so if someone else had problems with it after they used it I'm all ears.

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Hey DMC how tall is your fishhouse compared to how high your Garage door opens? eek.gif I know on my house which I framed in my parents garage I had to cut a short 2 X 3 and push the garage door up above the framing, usually the door hangs below. Then I cranked my house up so it was off the floor an 1" ro so and there was about an 1" clearance on the top too. Just made it> \:\)

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the door is sitting against the wall of my garage which makes it look small in the pic. It is a 30 inch door i got from a fish house manufacturer.

There is one manufacturer that puts a beam the length of the house down the middle on the inside of the house. I believe this is for strength. Is this something that I should do?

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I know a guy that had to take the trim boards off the garage door to get his house out, watch out if your driveway slopes away from the door or you will need to raise the front up as it goes out.

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In one of the houses I looked at, the beam was a false beam. they ran all of thier wiring inside of it. Not sure if it added strength or if it was just a good way of hiding wires.

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Various false header options are done according to the type roof you have.

My custom house had a peaked inside ceiling. There was a nice 8" wide oak header/trim board installed that housed the three ceiling lights as well as all the wiring front to back. Kitchenette and battery cabinet was in the back, equipment cabinet up front.

All wires were inside the front/back walls and run the length of the house under this false ceiling header/trim board.

Looked extremely high end and it's function easy wire/fuse access if ever needed.

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i agree with ice it, run the wiring in the middle of your ceiling, and then down your walls to and from each receptacle and you shouldn't have to drill or notch your 2x2's and you'll keep the structural integrity of the walls. you'll use a little bit more wire, but you're not running 12/2, so it's not like it will be much more expensive at all. then you'll also have access to the wires if you ever need to change anything. not sure how the brand name houses do it.

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I found a couple of pics of different ways to do the roof. Should I do it like the pic below? I cannot figure out how to put the other pic on here but it is basically setting the rafter on the top plate and attaching with huricane clips. The pic below has a box built around it. Which way do you guys think????

ddoit2.jpg

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I own a 6 1/2 X 14 Tight line. (tightline.com) The house has six holes one in each corner and the others offset in the middle. I have folding two bunks in the rear and plenty of room on the floor for a cot or two. The house is not a V-front. After useing this house for 2 winters everday, on different lakes across centeral and northern minnesota I regret not haveing the V-front. One reason is that the house would pull better on the hiway and the second is the cabient room. I use a 600 arctic cat wheeley without chains, on thin ice to get her out. This is no probem on ice with little snow. When ice becomes flooded expect a battle and some shoveling. This house has glass walls with wood studs and foam insilation. (New RV's have same walls) I aslo had the bottom sprayed with foam insolation, this added some better floor heat. I recomend cheking out tight line houses for frame and wheel setup for ideas.

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    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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