sticknstring Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 I know some of the Empire's have the mirrors in the bottom - look down through the top to see the flame... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediocrates67 Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 sandman...i've seen 20,000 btu units on auction sites for about $300.i'm not disagreeing with anyone on the forced air vs. direct vent. that's what deadminnow wants, that's what he gets, our purpose on here is to put our two cents in. when i build mine, it will have a forced air...another reason for it is that i don't want to worry about my little boy burning himself on the direct vent heater...they get hot.how's the spray foam look? post pics when you can! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 I will post pics of the spray foamed floor as soon as i get the house back. I am curious how that is going to turn out. I mite give the guy a call the end of the weak if i do not hear from him Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisosy11 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 Got the house home and started on the framing of it this weakend. Here are a few of the pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morris Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Lookin' good so far! What did you decide to use for siding on the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediocrates67 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 is that a really small door? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandmannd Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Lookin' good so far, keep the pics coming. What are you using to fasten the floor to the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 I will be putting tongue and groove cedar on the inside. The door is a 3o inch door. I am using self tapping screws to attach the floor to the trailer. Also going through the bottom plate and into the trailer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 I am looking for suggestions on how to run the wiring in the house. Walls are 2x2 construction and i am hesitant at drilling holes since they are only 2x2. Could go through ceiling joists but then would have to drill through 2x2 top plate to get into walls. Same with a gas line as i want to put a propane lite in the house. Looking for some good Ideas here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bothun Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 You could notch each of the 2x2's to run you lines between the cedar and the 2x's or i dont see that big of a problem drilling a hole the smallest you could to fit your wires through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandmannd Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Wiring doesn't take much of a whole, you should be fine. Also, you can get those little metal plates to put on the outside of the wood where you put the wire through. Helps to strengthen the wood and also you won't nail through the wires when puting up your siding and inside paneling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishb4work Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Just my thoughts but you should use conduit, to help ensure the wires wont rub when the house flexes as its raised or lowered. This will also ensure the wires are not in the way when you put up the finished cedar or the external siding. Plus if you decide after its done that you want to have another comfort feature just run a snake an pull it through. Never designed a house before so if someone else had problems with it after they used it I'm all ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LODFFB Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Hey DMC how tall is your fishhouse compared to how high your Garage door opens? I know on my house which I framed in my parents garage I had to cut a short 2 X 3 and push the garage door up above the framing, usually the door hangs below. Then I cranked my house up so it was off the floor an 1" ro so and there was about an 1" clearance on the top too. Just made it> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tisosy11 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 ahha yes, wouldn't want to get it stuck in the garage.Is that door really small?I'd notch the studs and then reinforce the area and you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 18, 2008 Author Share Posted March 18, 2008 the door is sitting against the wall of my garage which makes it look small in the pic. It is a 30 inch door i got from a fish house manufacturer.There is one manufacturer that puts a beam the length of the house down the middle on the inside of the house. I believe this is for strength. Is this something that I should do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawkeye43 Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 I know a guy that had to take the trim boards off the garage door to get his house out, watch out if your driveway slopes away from the door or you will need to raise the front up as it goes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 In one of the houses I looked at, the beam was a false beam. they ran all of thier wiring inside of it. Not sure if it added strength or if it was just a good way of hiding wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ice_it_06 Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 Various false header options are done according to the type roof you have.My custom house had a peaked inside ceiling. There was a nice 8" wide oak header/trim board installed that housed the three ceiling lights as well as all the wiring front to back. Kitchenette and battery cabinet was in the back, equipment cabinet up front.All wires were inside the front/back walls and run the length of the house under this false ceiling header/trim board.Looked extremely high end and it's function easy wire/fuse access if ever needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediocrates67 Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 i agree with ice it, run the wiring in the middle of your ceiling, and then down your walls to and from each receptacle and you shouldn't have to drill or notch your 2x2's and you'll keep the structural integrity of the walls. you'll use a little bit more wire, but you're not running 12/2, so it's not like it will be much more expensive at all. then you'll also have access to the wires if you ever need to change anything. not sure how the brand name houses do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 I found a couple of pics of different ways to do the roof. Should I do it like the pic below? I cannot figure out how to put the other pic on here but it is basically setting the rafter on the top plate and attaching with huricane clips. The pic below has a box built around it. Which way do you guys think???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediocrates67 Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 i say do the peaked roof. allows you to run wires and gas lines down the middle and have access to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunger Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I would have a slight peak to it, cover it with one piece of rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wormhook Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I own a 6 1/2 X 14 Tight line. (tightline.com) The house has six holes one in each corner and the others offset in the middle. I have folding two bunks in the rear and plenty of room on the floor for a cot or two. The house is not a V-front. After useing this house for 2 winters everday, on different lakes across centeral and northern minnesota I regret not haveing the V-front. One reason is that the house would pull better on the hiway and the second is the cabient room. I use a 600 arctic cat wheeley without chains, on thin ice to get her out. This is no probem on ice with little snow. When ice becomes flooded expect a battle and some shoveling. This house has glass walls with wood studs and foam insilation. (New RV's have same walls) I aslo had the bottom sprayed with foam insolation, this added some better floor heat. I recomend cheking out tight line houses for frame and wheel setup for ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadminnowcatcher Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 i tried that web site and cannot get it???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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