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New Nils won't cut


JScott

Question

I finally got my new Nils auger all set up and out on the ice yesterday. I was really looking forward to using it after all the good I have heard.

For some reason, it won't cut a complete hole without hanging up. The motor just won't power through all the way.

The blade is extremely sharp, and it cuts about an inch or two down and then can't get the rest of the way. The motor runs great and doesn't quit running.

Is there some kind of adjustment I'm not seeing with clutch engagement or something? It seems like the blades take an awfully big bite. I wonder if they are at the wrong angle or something.

I hooked it up to my old Mora bottom half and it cut through fine.

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Did you just head to the lake and start cutting holes or did you break in the motor properly?

The Tanaka engine has very tight tolerances and needs to be broken in before a load (cutting holes) is applied to it. Typical break-in procedure involves running a full tank of gas through the auger. Start it up, set it in the driveway, and let it run through that tank of gas.

I had the opportunity to fish with a friend who just got one the other day. He broke the motor in by running a full tank through it. His Nils cut like butter all day on Saturday, first time on the ice with it.

There is a chance something could be wrong with the blade but its more than likely the break-in procedure.

There are others with a lot more experience than me with these augers (and I'm sure they'll add to this topic) but new augers that won't cut generally haven't been broken in properly.

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I was actually pulling up on it a little because it was biting in so hard it would bind up and I would have to twist it out of the partially drilled hole. I was trying to be careful twisting it back out so as not to torque on the blade and make it worse.

As for break-in, I ran about half a tank with Saber 100 at 80-1 and that is what I'm still running. I was advised to run about two tanks of that through before going to 100-1.

I also ran it without load at various RPMs for about 15-20 minutes one night last week.

I suppose I could run it some more out in the garage, but I'm not seeing how that would solve the problem of binding up so bad part way through. The motor runs/starts great.

Since this was an online purchase, I'm a little bit at a loss for what to do next if this thing doesn't work right. Does anyone know if D-Rock would work with the Nils if needed?

It will be humiliating this weekend up at LOW if I have keep borrowing my buddy's Strikemaster.

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Im making a assumption your starting it and then trying to cut holes. Start it, let it run for about 30 seconds then hit the gas and run it for another 15-30 seconds and warm it up. It should then cut no problem. The blades are so sharp and pull so fast that at times they will catch at the bottom of the ice. If its not warmed up good it will catch.

It doesnt sound like a blade problem if its cutting a bit then catching.

Try this and if it doesnt work e-mail me and we can discuss some things.

I know at 20 below Sat my Nils needed some warming up. It flew through the ice after that. Your Nils will only get better with time and more holes cut. I would say after about 100 holes my Nils was at peak performance.

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'll start it up tonight after work and just let it run through a full tank as a break-in. I maybe didn't let it go long enough the first time. At least it is something to try.

Do you think I should let it run for an extended time with the throttle depressed a bit as well?

Again, thanks for getting back to me.

Northlander, I'm the one you helped out a couple of weeks ago with the oil mixture/break-in info. Much appreciated.

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Your problem is a motor break in thing. You will need to run the Nils thru a couple full tanks of gas to get the Nils broken in properly. Just start it up and let it run at idle until it runs out of gas. It will take a couple of tanks of gas to get it broken ion properly. I know that is a pain but well worth it after the auger starts to cut like it is supposed to!! laugh.gif

As stated, you have to give the engine a few seconds to warm up before cutting holes too.

I have owned a Nils for two seasons now and they are a great ice cutting machine! shocked.gif

Cliff

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JJohnson as Cliff said run a tank or 2 through it like I told ya. Was that at the show? Then every time you go out let it warm up for 30 seconds then pick it up and give it gas for a little while. Once its warmed up it will burn through the ice like nothing you have used before.

Send me a e-mail if ya have any more questions.

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Here is something very interesting... I just called Nils USA out in Vermont, and the guy there was very helpful. As soon as I described the situation, he said I have a "dry diaphram" (sounds painful!).

He told me to take the bit back off and run it wide open for a few minutes holding it in the air and cycle the choke back and forth about 5 times. I guess that will help prime or wet that diaphram to allow it to build its power capibility to achieve the higher torque under load.

He said sometimes after sitting in the box for awhile the diaphram dries out and they've seen this before.

Northlander- it wasn't at the show that you helped me, but online one evening about two-three weeks ago now when my auger first arrived.

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Gadgetman even with my warm up I can still drill 10 holes way faster than I could with my old jiffy. Plus its way lighter and easier cutting.

I also havent had to use a extention in the 3 plus years I have had mine. Thats on Red, LOW or wherever else I go.

Dont get me wrong Jiffy makes a good auger as well and the chipper blades go forever its just so much easier on my body cutting with my Nils.

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I've had a lot of posts lately related to auger issues ranging from poor starting to no power under load. They are all are a result carbs and engines meeting Emissions standards.

The Nils however has no start issues. Choke it and prime it and it'll start. Nils has a fixed main jet, there are no adjustments. Its designed to start good in cold weather, once started take the choke off and let it warm up. How long a warm up depends on what the temps are. This weekend in the -20 temp my Nils started like it should, I didn't let it warm up and had the same thing happen as you did. I knew better. After the warm up it cut like nothing else.

I have a SM that'll cut without much of a warm up but its and old auger and I have it tuned to do that. I still let it warm up because it'll prolong the life of the auger.

If your going to drill just one hole then any auger will work.

If your drilling lots of holes then I can't think of a better auger then the Nils. Light, fast and cuts with little effort from the user. Ice fishing has come a long way from when I started. The day of hand auguring two holes and staying put is over. Its about being mobile, I'll cut a series of holes along the structure I'm fishing and I'll move around that. For that matter portable ice houses and flashers are designed around being mobile.

Anyway back to the auger, let it warm up and give zero down pressure. I have to catch myself from the days of laying down on the SM to get it to bite.

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I picked up the same auger at the ice fishing show and was having the same problems that started this post. I was just about to call the Nils contact number but after reading this post I'll try all these tips first.

I guess this is why I should read the instructions first

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I bought my Nils at the end of last season and before I heard about breaking it in I tried it on the ice, which was 18 inches thick at the time. It seemed to bog down as described and if I lifted up a bit it ran through better. Over the summer I ran a couple of tanks of gas through it without load. I took it on the ice yesterday for the first time this season and it started up on the first pull (well second, I pulled it once with the choke on) and cut without any hesitation or slowing.

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Enginejet, don't feel bad. The booklet that came with mine could hardly be called "instructions". It was about as general as possible. In fact it covers all kinds of power tools, mainly drills from what I can see. There was no mention of the "dry diaphram" possibility until I called NILS USA out in Vermont. Thankfully, I had their number off of the packing slip on the outside of the box.

I'm just glad we've got this forum to sort through some of these issues. I just got done running two tanks through mine to break it in, and I'm hoping to try it again this weekend.

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Sorry about being a smart alek, but there is a big difference between 5-10 seconds of warm up and 60 seconds of warm up as was mentioned in an earlier post. I may be interested in a Nils as I am only getting older and weaker so a lighter unit is of interest to me, but not if it has to warm up for a minute...thats not acceptable in my book

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Gadgetman-

I don't want to be a smart arse either but 60 seconds of warm up time with a Nils equals more fishing time as your holes will be cut faster when its all said and done. wink.gif

As for the break-in procedure & problems cutting with a new auger. This isn't anything new. I can name a bunch of Prostaffers (Northlander, Paul Waldowski, Surface Tension, Iffwalleyes, Dtro, Deitz, Harvey Lee, Rick, etc) on FM here who run Nils augers and most of them had problems initially. These guys have spent some time with these augers and know the ins and outs of them.

The new auger not cutting right story always has come down to the break-in method and period. The Tanaka engine is a commercial grade engine which holds very tight tolerances. As such, the break-in period & process is very critical to the performance of the auger.

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Gadgetmanm thats fair enough. I see a lot of posts where guys are trying to reduce the smoke from their augers.

Fact: an auger that can cut without warm up will smoke, you'll feel your eyes burn from the raw gas. That is because that auger is tuned rich. Its not the oil thats burning your eyes its the unburnt gas. Some folks think that mixing gas at a ratio of 100:1 will reduce that burning sensation in the eyes, nose and throat. It might smoke less but theres still that raw gas coming from the exhaust from being tuned to run well without a warm up and thats where that noxious exhaust is coming from.

Fact: you won't feel that stinging sensation in your eyes, nose and throat from a Nils. I mix at the recommended 24:1 and it smokes very little. The difference is in the tuning. One other thing about the Nils that reduces that burning sensation is it has a catalytic converter to burn any unburnt gas in the exhaust. Nils meets Emissions standards without compromising cold starts. You will need to warm the auger up before you start cutting. Thats the just the way it is, you can't have both.

I do my own maintenance on all my gear. I did a carb cleaning on my Nils. The Tanaka engine uses a Walbro diaphragm carb with a fixed jet. I replaced that .0037 jet to .0038. Part # 112-716

End result a little less warm up time but still some is required, and no noticeable increase in unburnt gas in the exhaust. On that next carb cleaning give it a try.

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I have noticed that you can start the Nils and let her just sit there.. it doesnt have to be standing upright, So I just start mine and let her sit while I get stuff ready... Dont even notice that its warming up.... I have owned Strikemasters and Jiffys as well.. and they needed warm up as well.. I dont think this is a Nils problem.

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Any new ice auger on the market will probably have issues. My last Jiffy was the exception to this. It was one of the best machines I have ever owned. I still have it and love it to the point I just can't seem to sell it. However that said I do enjoy the lightweight of the Nils it is awesome. Not that weight is an issue for me being the size I am. But it is noticable. This weekend on LOW it ran good for me and it was -25 both days. The first hole both days it was a little doggie. But then it was warmed up. The final holes were a breeze. Surface Tension modification is worth it my warm up time has been cut down greatly. My biggest complain of the entire auger is the blade guard. I never get that thing to stay on right and that can be a problem because them blades are sharp blush.gifgrin.gif. Get it broke in and it will be good to go. I ran two tank though before I ever hit the ice myself late last winter and now I am probably on my 3 or 4 tank and it get stronger every time out.

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Maybe in a couple of years when I am really old wink.gif they will have the warm up situation down to smaller time. Mean while until I get the $ for a Nils I will happily use my Jiffy. But nice to know that warm up aside there is a good light weight alternative out there. I dont have a lot of exhaust issues as I fish mostly out of a trap so am not in an enclosed space.

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Quote:

Gadgetman even with my warm up I can still drill 10 holes way faster than I could with my old jiffy. Plus its way lighter and easier cutting.

I also havent had to use a extention in the 3 plus years I have had mine. Thats on Red, LOW or wherever else I go.

Dont get me wrong Jiffy makes a good auger as well and the chipper blades go forever its just so much easier on my body cutting with my Nils.


Quote:

I have had many auger hole races with numerous brand auger and have not lost to date. Even if I have to let it warm up for 5-10 seconds. The NIls is one fast cutter.


Yup and I've had my strikemaster for 16 years and going and no plans on getting rid of it.

One other question? why are there so many nils augers in the bargain cave????

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