Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Best Muskie Line and Why ?


sbro73

Recommended Posts

I have really grown to like my Berkely Stealth (used to be Whiplash). I use 65lb line and I can honestly say it cast nice, handles well and doesn't seem to fray out like some of the braids. The one trouble with it is when its new it turns everything green from the reel to the grips and even your thumb.

I cannot remember ever having a line failure with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Tuf-line Plus...seems to work just fine...but I have been slowly switching over to Power-pro (Mostly 80lbs) the past couple of season. Why? I guess it just works for me. It seems to hold its shape (roundness) better and does not hold much water...this is a good thing in late season..less water, less cold hands.

To be honest, I think there are a ton of good lines on the market. The challenge is to get the right size/weight of line to match your equipment (rod/reel) and lure size. Once that is figured out, its pretty much all the same...just my two cents.

Cliffy grin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

always been tuff line for me. always works and never breaks - it does hold alot of water but hey if it ant broke why look for a change. plus freezing cold hands in the fall is part of being a musky nut.... i also use the tuff line for my main backing on my tipups and rattle reels.

thats about 3.5 cents worth - you may get a whole dollar out of this thread....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power pro for this guy. Like how it stays round and doesnt fray. Used regular tuff line for a while and liked it also but retains alot of water and frays thats why i switched to Power pro. I really dont think there are any bad no stretch lines out there. A buddy of mine prefers Cortland and one is a spider wire stealth user and they both like them.Mostly just personal preference. The only thing i dont like about my power pro is that the color comes off the line fairly quick but a permanent marker brings it back if you want to go to that length to bring it back to dark green from light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I landed a 219 Stratos with 80lb Stealth. I shouldn't even tell this story because I'm sure I will get a good ribbing for it but here it goes;

One early morning I was putting my boat in the lake like I have done a thousand times, trouble is this time I forgot to hook the rope up before I slid it of the trailer. confused.gif

Good thing it was calm and the boat only went out twenty to thirty yards before it stopped. I sat on shore thinking a slight breeze may come up and blow the boat in, or I was going swimming. As I sat on the tailgate taking off my shoes and catching a fair amount of flack from my fishing buddy I looked at one of my jerk bait rods in the back of the truck and thought, why not. I casted it onto the deck of the boat, snagged the carpet and worked it back to shore with my Stealth line...I have been a fan ever since. grin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, one more question. I keep reading these types of things trying to decide what line to go to, but my Tufline seems to last forever. If it doesn't look frayed, how long will it last? I'm an old guy who is used to putting new line on every spring but this stuff is hanging on amazingly well! It must be 3 years old now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One good way to extend line life is to take it all off your reel and swap ends, put in on in reverse so the end you had been using to tie to your leader is now at the bottom of your spool and vice versa. Make sure to use some backing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jon - been there man. 1.5 ton boat fights pretty good in an offshore breeze...

Captain - modern superlines pretty much last forever as long as they don't get frayed. Back in the greenspot dacron days I respooled 3 or 4 times a summer because dacron will actually decay fairly quickly, especially when exposed to sunlight a lot. Not so with suplerines. As long as it's not frayed at all you can use it as long as you want. It does wear down eventually just through use, but it takes a while. BUT - retie when you see fraying. it looses strength fairly rapidly when it does begin to wear.

Cheers,

RK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point Cooter, I do this by tying it off to a tree or pickup and walking out the line, then switch to the other end and respool it back on. By tying it off to something and walking along as you rewind you can really wind the line back on tight. This will help with preventing backlashes from digging in. Also if your spool has lost some line from previos breakoffs or tangled messes that had to be cut out add some backer before you respool to make up for the lost line.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do the same, heavy mono on top of a little bit of black tape. I have never had a problem.

I also swap out my line every two or more years....switch ends...re-use it...and throw it away when it starts to get too ratty...if you have any doubts...throw it out...lost a couple nice lures by trying to save a dollar on line. I once sent a Manta on a low orbit around the moon because I was too cheap to buy new line....still miss that lure....... frown.giffrown.giffrown.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.