Replacing snowmobile trailer deck?

[Walleyehooker]

Salt shield was removed as in first pic

[Big Dave2]

32 minutes ago, leech~~ said:

 

If you look at the first picture of his frame at top. He had taken his salt shield off.  If yours is the same way you should be able to slide the first short ply sheet in the front then the to larger sheets in the back one side then the other. At least I think that's how he did it. 

 

That's what I was thinking too.

[johndenver]

In the pics Walleye posted though, you can see the front when the salt shield is off that the aluminum plate still blocks off part of the channel from being slid in easily. 

[leech~~]

I'm not seeing that on the front?  It looks like the front cross support is below the grooved side board rails? It does look like the very corner edge of the rail in the picture is bent down a bit but that's easy to bend back up.  I think the rear cross support does have a raised lip but that may be so the plywood doesn't get crewed up when loading.  I don't see that on the front one.

 

 

Edited January 24, 2019 by leech~~

[johndenver]

the Front and back both have a raised lip on my trailer. I believe walleyes does too. See my pic. All four corners of trailer are this way. I believe the only way is to cut it 7’11”, then have it a half inch short on either side. There are likely enough supports in the front where the half inch missing on the side won’t effect total support.

[Walleyehooker]

Cant recall for sure but maybe I was able to flex mine enough to get ends in with 5/8 not sure if u can with 3/4. Either way there isn't hardly any weight of the sled that far up and if u can get a 1/2 inch on each side u should be fine.

[leech~~]

Try this then. Lay the short piece in at an angle across the trailer. Get the two opposite ends under the edge lips and use a rubber hammer to tap it up even into place. Then put the back two large sheets on.   Tap in to place not tape auug!   You may have to try it a few times if the size needs to be trimmed a bit to fit. 

 

Edited January 25, 2019 by leech~~

[Surface Tension]

 Leech, not going to work that way.  When you put the plywood at an angle you've increased its width.

 

Should be able to bow a 8' x 3/4" piece of plywood plenty to slip into the channels.

 

[johndenver]

Ended up cutting an inch off the piece and was able to get a half inch of wood inside each channel. I appreciate everyone’s input and comments. 

[leech~~]

1 hour ago, Surface Tension said:

 Leech, not going to work that way.  When you put the plywood at an angle you've increased its width.

 

Should be able to bow a 8' x 3/4" piece of plywood plenty to slip into the channels.

 

 

I did say you may need to cut a bit, which it sounds like he did!

 

"You may have to try it a few times if the size needs to be trimmed a bit to fit"

[jeffeg64]

I'm late to this discussion, but look into the correct type of treaded plywood, some of the are very corrosive to aluminum.

I replaced mine a couple of years ago. routed the edges and used special self drilling screws that are designed for fastening plywood to metal, they were not that expensive and worked great.

[Walleyehooker]

I also used self taping screws

[Mike89]

29 minutes ago, Walleyehooker said:

I also used self taping screws

 

 

they are the best!!!

[jeffeg64]

these weren't regular self tappers,

they had small wings to drill the plywood over size

cant remember the name.

[birdswacker]

I know exactly what your talking about we call them iron eaters at work

You can buy them at Menards