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Skis added to sled w/ pic. Also looking for help...


masoct3

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Also could use a backpack and hook the rope to it with caribeaner clips. That would help spread out the area for the rope to dig in on you. I also was thinking about running the rope through a smaller size pvc to help from getting the sled coming at you when going down hill before you're on the lake. Not sure how it would work but I might give it a shot.

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Also could use a backpack and hook the rope to it with caribeaner clips. That would help spread out the area for the rope to dig in on you. I also was thinking about running the rope through a smaller size pvc to help from getting the sled coming at you when going down hill before you're on the lake. Not sure how it would work but I might give it a shot.

I did this. I just use the caribeaners at the end of the rope to attach to the eyelets of the sled to make it easy to put on and take off the rope during transport and storage of the sled. I tied a knot in the center of the rope that formed a loop and cut PVC to go between the loop and the caribeaners. The loop at the end makes a handle to pull and also goes over the ball on the SxS. If you don't pull it with a vehicle you could make the loop bigger and use another longer piece of PVC as a bar to either pull or any way you see fit to pull with. full-35430-26001-sled.jpg

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I thought about getting that harness...but not for $35. I just put my rope over one shoulder and under the opposite arm. Or you could get a deer drag harness at Farm and Fleet for $7.
well, to me it is worth $35. The $7 deer harness has no padding and only a central tie off point.This one has nice thick padded straps and all. I've even had my wife jump in my sled and I've pulled her around the lake a bit for skoots and giggles.
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pulling that by hand you will be fine. if you are pulling with a atv or snowmobile, it will not last to long. that metal will bend when the skies hit ice chunks and hard snow. i put skies on my otter years back, bolted right to the bottom of the tub with carrage bolts. it worked well until the tub finely gave out and cracked in a few different spots due to hitting stuff under the snow. bought a new tub and hifax. i have figured out that when disigning something for icefishing, it has to be able to go 70mph, upside down, for it to withstand the punishment that just happends out icefishing.

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how do you get that contraption in and out of a pickup box?

Last year when I noticed large holes that couldn't be patched I went the simple but heavy route with a sheet of plywood and 2x4 skids. The plywood hangs out on two of the sides, one side for your feet and one for gear outside the flipover (propane tank, ect). It's pretty heavy so it doesn't pull across any large distance, but it can be hoisted into the back of a pickup if you have your big-boy pants on, and I don't have to worry about it slamming on the asphalt or ice when I take it out.

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The main issue I'm seeing with the metal setup is very little roll resistence and not much keeping the skis from splitting (spreading apart from each other). What would happen if each ski ended up in a deep grove/track that were spreading apart from each other?

Who knows, I've been known to over design things before, but I hate it when stuff breaks.

Along the lines of what Box was talking about....

100_0647.jpg

100_0650.jpg

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love the auger holder idea, need one of those bad!! how did u connect the skis to the pipe?

I used flat head bolts to attach the end caps to the skis. I drilled and countersank the holes in the bottom of the ski. The end caps that are bolted to the skiis are not glued to the uprights on the auger carrier. That way I can just pull it out and still collapse the skiis for transport.

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jbird that looks awesome, i think i may have to build something like that, where did you get the skis?

I got the skiis from a friend. The bindings were already removed. Look at thrift shops or goodwill for used skiis.

The sled wasn't my idea. We call it a smitty sled after the guy who originally came up with the idea on another ice fishing forum HSOforum. It works great in snow.

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The main issue I'm seeing with the metal setup is very little roll resistence and not much keeping the skis from splitting (spreading apart from each other). What would happen if each ski ended up in a deep grove/track that were spreading apart from each other?

Who knows, I've been known to over design things before, but I hate it when stuff breaks.

Along the lines of what Box was talking about....

100_0647.jpg

100_0650.jpg

This is the original smitty sled.

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I totally agree with you. In deep snow or slush, a heavy load in the sled will sink those skis and you will go no where! Talk to some dog sledders about their sleds on narrow runners in deep snow or in slush and you will find that they .bolt heavy plastic like sheeting to the bottom of their sleds to make a toboggan bottom which is what you have in your tub. I agree that bolting skis directly to the bottom will probably give you more directional stability as well as wear protection, but raised skis make no sense.

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I don't know about dog sleds...but the sled I built to carry my shanty sure makes pulling over/through snow a breeze compared to pulling just the shanty The shanty would plow snow, even with glide sticks attached...and the sled cuts through the snow like a hot knife through butter. Maybe with a dog sled there is already a path that may have ruts and bumps and stuff. But on fresh snow I wouldn't go back to just my shanty. Just my honest opinion and experience in using mine.

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I got the idea from the original smitty sled and basically made it bigger.

The sled sits appx 12 inches up from the bottom the skis.

I'm able to pull it by hand loaded with gear, but with a few pipes attached to the tow ropes it pulls great behind an atv or snowmobile.

full-36592-26048-smittysledconcept.jpg

The side are built with stake pockets so they can be removed. To accommodate different shelter option. My current shelter is a pop up hub which straps great to the top of the rails and I notched the front and rear rails to allow the auger to sit on the rails and still leave room for the gear in the bottom.

The sides are just high enough so a 5 gal bucket stands up inside great for bait and keeping important things secure during transport.

It is a bit heavy but manageable by one person on the flat lake. Tough going up and down hills.

Now just gotta wait for the ice to finally get here.

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I think we are talking about very different towing conditions based upon all of the photos I have seen on this post. Sure skis will work on a couple inches of snow, hard pack or plowed roads. I am talking about 10" or so of untraveled snow on remote Ontario lakes with no vehicle travel and a good likelihood of slush pockets. From my own experience in about 8" of snow using one of those dogsled type sleds with steel runners and folding sides that weighed about 80lbs empty, I kept getting hopelessly bogged down and needed frequent tows. That thing went on hsolist as soon as I got back. The best sleds I have seen are cargo or freight sleds used by trappers and loggers in Canada or Alaska which has a towing yoke strongly affixed about a third way back from the front which allows the front to float. Also pretty pricey and probably overkill for most Minnesota conditions.

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This is a great setup. I appreciate you showing it. I have altered mine a bit. I am now 1/4" from sled to ski. I had a lower binding part not able to come off so I left it on and that is why I am at 1/4". So at this point is why I need a couple braces going perpendicular to skis.

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Just a simple question, why are you using wood as part of the sled mod? Wood will get wet, split, and everything else. I would think everyone uses some type of metal. I know metal corrodes, but it is stronger than wood (most metal).

Thanks.

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I had a setup on my Otter Cabin that used a system of poles sliding in to one another similar to what the flipovers do. I found some used Clam poles from a smaller Clam flipover and cut off the ends of the U and made them into the skis. I then found some metal that was just a tad bigger than the U's and secured them to my portable. I drilled 2 holes in the secured pipes that held the skis, one near the top and one 4-5 inches near the bottom. I also drilled 2 holes through the top of the U shaped skis. I could raise them up when not in use and lower them when traveling through softer snow/shush. I secured the U shaped skis into the secured poles with easy on/off cotter pins. It took me 30 seconds to pull the pins out and lower the skis and just as much time to raise them back up. This is not ideal for thick crusty snow but worked awesome for fresh show/shush. I would load my sled up with at least 200 lbs of weight and never had a problem with the sled or the poles bucklin. I'm sure this sounds confusing but I hope some get an idea.

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I haven't done anything to stiffen up the connection. Mine doesn't seem to be loose or floppy. I haven't had it out on snow yet or on a graded hill. I guess you could drill holes through your cap and upright tube and then pin them together. I put large washers inside the caps and then tightened the nut to secure it.

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