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which broadhead for me?


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No debates about wich ones are best i just want some broadheads of either fixed blade or mechanicals, flys like field points, has a good cut diameter, broadheads and replacement blade should be lower than $40 maybe even $30. I dont have a whole lot to replace the blade for my NAP Spitfires, seriously? $20 for small replacement blades. Im thinking of buying muzzys either the 3 pack for around $20 or the 6 pack but is there better stuff out there for cheap? Wally world has some pretty dang cheap broadheads from a company i never heard of they are pretty much knock offs of a NAP spitfire or cheap fixed bladers.

reason im asking is because my NAP Spitfires are very dull even though they look new resharpening is hard because the blades are small. replacements are $20 so maybe add another 5 for new heads plus my heads right now are kinda scratched up.

One thing we should of asked is what draw weight are you shooting. If you are shooting 50# or less I would definatly suggest a cut on contact head like a magnus ziwicky or snuffer any head in that style will get you the penatration you will need.

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Archerysniper, I respect what you write on here as you seam to know alot about bows, but i have to add my experience in the field and what determined what I use now.

I went over 15 years shooting an old martin Lynz that killed many many deer over the years to a "state of the art" at the time Renegade SBD. I still hunt with it even though its almost 8 years old now. I was told at the time that I couldnt shoot fixed blade broadheads because it was to fast and a fixed blade would plane vs an expandable. I shoot 65 lbs with a 29 " draw. Well i hunted with an expandable for 2 years and in that time lost 3 deer because of not enough penetration and no pass through.

After losing a buck i hunted for for 3 years because of this very reason I was ready to give up bow hunting. I decided after many long nights thinking over and over again what "I DID" wrong. One deer shot was within 5 ft from the base of my tree and the arrow did not leave the deer. I decided to try some fixed blades. I picked muzzys, mostly because of there reputation and advertising. Low and behold they shot the same as my field tips. I was so mad at myself for taking the word of some guy at the Pro Shop that said they wouldnt work. He should have known! For anyone to say they wouldnt work was wrong.

Yeah I know there are a ton of variables with every shot taken but please remember folks you must try and find what is right for your bow, poundage, draw length etc. I went off of what others said because I didnt want to or couldnt justify spending the money to experement with different broadheads.

Take the time to try friends broadheads, ask shops to recomend a braodhead based on set up. I know personally it will eat you up later if you dont do your homework before you shoot and loose that deer of a lifetime.

Personally, Ill never shoot another expandable broadhead. Im going with the tried and true. Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain. Just my opinion.

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My vote goes for the three blade Thunderheads, I've used them for years, they make a nice hole, unless you hit a big bone, like the off shoulder, they usually go right thru. My rule is that if they hit the ground, I replace the blades, I want them to be sharp!!!

Sacrifice a couple and shoot them to make sure they fly like your field points!!

After all the hours you spend scouting and in the stand, don't skimp on the final end product that is going to kill that deer for you!!

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I have also had problems getting my 4 blade Muzzy to fly strait. I know I have my bow well tuned, I have shot 6 or 7 different broadheads out of my setup over the past few years and every one of them but the Muzzy 4 blade flew just like my field tips. So the easy answer is to get the good old Muzzy 3 blades and you should be a happy camper.

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Wish I knew this before but just because you shoot a 100 grain field point doesn't mean you want to get a 100 grain fixed blade broadhead.

I picked up a 6 pack of 100 grain muzzys yesterday. They are hitting 3-4 inches to the left of my field points @ 40yds. Turns out my Front-of-Center balance is 11% with 100 grain tips. 125 grain broadheads would have bumped this up to 13.3% and should have me hitting closer to center.

Tomorrow I'll get some 125s

Hopefully that saves someone some time or money. Calculate your FOC before you buy your broadheads!

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I'll throw in a vote for G5 Strikers. Super sharp blades.. I mean sharp! Never had a loose blade or a blade come off. Shoots the same as my fields out to 40yds (never tried further). Had them pass thru and stick 8" into the ground to find the ferrule in perfect shape and ready for new blades. Blades weren't to bad either with a few smaller nicks but like others mentioned I prefer to change them out with new sharp ones.

I just like the simplicity of a durable fixed blade broadhead.

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g5 strikers are an awesome head that is scary sharp and i would reccomend them to anyone. My girlfriend got an easy pass though on a nice doe last year at 15 yards shooting only 38 pounds.They also fly perfect with my Field points out to 60 yards. The only negative is i hate seeing them jump in price so much i think when i bought them 2 years ago they were 30$ and now they are 36 but what hasn't gone up. I also found some spitfires for 15$ per 3 and will be trying them out deer hunting this year. Hope you get the muzzy's working for ya, it is a proven head thats for sure

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HItting to the left would mean that your spine is too weak or you've got rest contact. FOC would have very little to do with the right/left arrangement.

Having more weight on the front may stiffen up your arrow, helping the spine stiffness, but the FOC is not the reason.

A good way to check this without using a spine calculator that uses the exact specs of your bow setup, would be to do a paper tune or a walk-back tune. If you hit 3-4" left no matter what distance you shoot at then you have a spine issue. If the gap from the bullseye gets wider the farther back you go then you have a rest contact issue.

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HItting to the left would mean that your spine is too weak or you've got rest contact. FOC would have very little to do with the right/left arrangement.

Having more weight on the front may stiffen up your arrow, helping the spine stiffness, but the FOC is not the reason.

A good way to check this without using a spine calculator that uses the exact specs of your bow setup, would be to do a paper tune or a walk-back tune. If you hit 3-4" left no matter what distance you shoot at then you have a spine issue. If the gap from the bullseye gets wider the farther back you go then you have a rest contact issue.

I rechecked paper and walk-back today. All is fine to 40 yards (I didn't test any further).

Then I started shooting my broadheads again and all is fine there also. Maybe it was a confidence issue or tired arms the other day -- not sure.

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I just bought some G5 Strikers and am really happy with how they fly. Dead on match with my fieldpoints from 40 yds. I like the confidence of knowing my heads will fly where I expect and not have "deployment issues" like I have had with expandables in the past. I'll sacrifice a little cutting width for consistent cutting action.

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i can give you three reasons... Rage, Rage, Rage!

IMG_0011.jpg

if you don't believe me; watch this.

Use to be a Rage guy myself until I had one not open correctly. They are cool heads and make big holes but I had to go back to those solid as a rock muzzys.

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