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Garage Door opener problem


bobbymalone

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Pushed the button this morning and it went up about halfway then it stopped and started making this terrible grinding kinda noise from the box. I pushed the button again and it went down fine. Tried making it go up one last time and it didn't move it just made that grinding noise again.

After work today I tried it again - same thing.

I pulled the release lever on the door to see if it would move with no load and no go, still with the noise.

I climbed up on a ladder to see if I could see something blocking up the gear up there and when I pushed the button the grinding noise was gone and it sounds like the motor was spinning but nothing moved.

any ideas what the deal is? Is it something I should try to fix or have fixed or is it new garage door opener time?

BTW it's a Craftsman 1/2 HP and it's 10-15 years old.

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I think you have an internal problem with the gears.

It didn't loose its place in the down position so we know that it is between the motor and the pulse. Not that that matters because the quickest fix is a new opener.

Maybe one with a few new bells and whistles for your trouble.

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I had the same problem. Here is the part and part number. I didn't replace the worm gear, which saves time. It took me less than 45 minutes. Approx 30.00

Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Gear & Sprocket Assembly Kit 41C4220A

Sku: 41C4220A

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I had the same problem. Here is the part and part number. I didn't replace the worm gear, which saves time. It took me less than 45 minutes. Approx 30.00

Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Gear & Sprocket Assembly Kit 41C4220A

Sku: 41C4220A

I think I'll take it apart and give it a look-see. I would rather drop 30 on some new gears than $150-250 for a new opener.

Should it be readily apparent if the gears are messed up (i.e broken teeth, etc)?

Is that kit something I have to get online or do you think I can find it at HD?

Surface, what is the "pulse"? Garage door openers are not my speciality wink

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You will see a lot of shavings from the gear, make sure you clean all that before you install the new piece. You can just buy the larger round gear, but it is easier just putting in the shaft/gear. I googled replacing the gear or something like that and it shows how to remove the gear without removing the worm gear. Instruction are included in the pkg. That saves a few steps and makes it easier. I got my part a Sears in Burnsville Ctr. The guy had the part ready when I arrived. Make sure you use the enclosed gear grease.

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I have fixed tons of these.

The first thing to do is to unhook the opener and make sure the door operates smoothly up and down. When you have it open half way, the spring tension should be enough to keep the door "stuck" in that position. If it is not, and the door slams down, then the opener is working too hard and thus the gear shredded. This happens often due to the springs "relaxing" and losing tension. If the door springs up, then the springs are set too tight.

The gears shred themselves in the winter, often times because the door freezes down and you hit the button and the thing kicks it's own arse to try to get the door open.

One more thing, I swear those gears are only designed to last 10-15 years, it's what keeps Chamberlain/Craftsman openers flying off the shelves.

Brian-

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I also replaced the gear on my Craftsman opener about 2-3 yrs ago. If I remember correctly, there is a capacitor in there to watch out for, so unplugging it doesn't get you totally "safe" from a jolt.

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you made sure the spring did not break?

You guys are talking about the spring directly above the garage door and not something inside the opener, correct? The garage goes up and down and holds halfway just like it should when I pull the release and operate it manually. Thankfully, otherwise I would have had a hard time getting the car out.

I am thinking Brian12345 hit it right on the head with the gears shredding themselves in the winter. There have been a couple times recently that the door needed a little helping hand to unstick in the cold.

Thanks for the capacitor tip. The last thing I need is a good jolt while standing on a ladder.

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I didn't take it down and it didn't take long at all to replace the piece. It will make so much more work taking the motor off!!! By not replacing the worm gear it cuts the time in half.

If I remember right, turn off power

loosen chain and secure it up to the track with zip ties

remove 1 or 2 snap type electrical connectors

slide chain off gear

remove 3 screws holding the drive assembly on

Remove locking clip holding gear on the shaft

remove the gear/shaft

clean all the plastic shavings out of the area

replace the gear/shaft MAKE sure to line up the top plate on the gear assembly so it's facing the right direction so the chain guard fits on----I didn't do this correctly!

screw 3 screw back in

GREASE THROUGHLY

connect chain to gear and tighten the chain

connection wires

put cover on

plug in

test

have a cold one for a job well done....saving a few hundred dollars!!!

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If you're replacing the internal gears on the opener, make sure that your adjustments are made with the cover to the gears off. The grease that comes with the new gears will fling out when you first start the new gears moving. Make sure that you spread that grease back onto the gears and use the rest that is in the tube. If you don't use any of the grease, you will be replacing the gears again in about 2 weeks.

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Okay you guys, I want you to remember where you got this tip and give me proper credit. Most doors have a rubber or rubber "type" gasket across the bottom. Spray it every now and then with Pam or another non-stick spray or a Teflon spay. The gasket wants to stick to the concrete floor and that puts the overload on the motor (gears) and the overheat does the rest.

You're welcome. Bow.

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