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Strike_Lite or Solo?


Sportland_Bait

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Jason, Be aware too that the strikelite doesn't work very well later in the winter when the ice gets thicker. We had had problems with the blades icing over and not cutting and the synthetic (plastic) auger bit isn't real high so it doesn't auger the ice out of the hole real well. I would suggest if you picked up a lite to pick up a metal bit (its a little heavier but eliminates problems)

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Checked out those solo powerheads yesterday and couldnt believe the amount of plastic on it...especially the throttle linkage....looked really flimsy...i have an older mag 2000 and have had problems with the throttle lever breaking, recoil, and the on off switch..all but the throttle lever were covered under warranty....i don't like the chincy plastic on the new powerhead...but I am sure they run good..

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I fished with someone Friday that had the new strike lite. It was a scouting trip so we drilled a ton.

Pro: Very quiet and easy to start. We must have drilled 50-60 holes without making a noticeable change in the gas tank. Barely used any gas at all. No noticeable fumes or exhaust.

Con: The bit is where the weight difference is. It seems flimsy. To re-enforce it they put a huge plastic ring around the blades. This causes massive ice build up on the blades and is difficult to clean. The engine seemed a bit light on the power. Not the power I'm used to from my old 2hp Jiffy.

The owner loves it but he's trading out the bit and going with a standard Lazer bit.

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I've always been a Strikemaster guy so I talked a buddy into purchasing a new one this year. First pull on the cord and it would not recoil. Talked to a gu at Joe's Sporting Goods and he says they have had some issues with the grease they were using in the recoil. Not an official recall but sounds like Strikemaster is fixing it for free and it sounds like they are fixing quite a few of them

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Just picked up a Solo 3 hp on Saturday. The thing is a champ on the ice. I haven't had any problems but it chews up the gas fast. Cuts like a dream and is fast as heck. Easy starting and it wont die until you kill it, even when holding it upside down. It also needs little warm up time.

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Here Ya go. Conditioning Your Recoil

Prior to putting gas in your auger’s power head we recommend (in a warm environment), liberally spray WD‐40®

on the recoil mechanism as show in the pictures below:

Spray the WD‐40® where the recoil rope and the metal guide meet. Again, please liberally spray the WD‐40® to

ensure it lubricates the whole recoil mechanism. This will ensure your power head performs in the conditions

Ice fishermen encounter during the winter.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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