bearings fried on trailer?

[CALVINIST]

I was driving home from the launch yesterday when suddenly I heard and felt alot of vibration...it sounded very loud and horrible!!! When I slowed down alot it stopped, but after speeding up or going over a bump it would start up again just as loud and horrible. I thought it was coming from my truck, but after detaching my trailer I drove the truck and nothing happened in terms of vibration or noise. I haven't had a chance to put the trailer back on and drive it yet, I'll get to that tonight, but I think the bearings fried on my trailer. Does this sound like what happens during bearing failure?

[Tom7227]

yup. don't drive it again. at least jack the wheels up and see if they spin properly before you take it on the road. a tow gets awfully expensive after the wheels fall off and the repairs can be a pita as well.

[jeffreyd]

yep, hopefully it did not trash the spindle. if only one side went, you should consider doing both wheels. Make sure buddy bearings are working correctly ifyou have them.

[CALVINIST]

yep, hopefully it did not trash the spindle. if only one side went, you should consider doing both wheels. Make sure buddy bearings are working correctly ifyou have them.

How can I check I didn't wreck the spindle or anything else?

[DTro]

I would suggest just replacing both hubs with new pre-greased ones. Pretty darn easy and can do it for under a $100 bucks.

It’s easy, just jack up trailer, remove tire/wheel. Remove spindle nut and hub. Replace hub with new one, tighten spindle nut to seat everything, back nut off ¼ turn or where cotter pin hole lines up. Insert cotter pin. Remount tire/wheel.

Done.

[raymondk]

replacing the hubs will not fix your problem if the spindle got damaged. bearing buddies help keep your bearings in good shape but you still have to repack your bearing at least once a year the best time is right before you store your boat for the year don't wait until spring if there is any water with your bearings just sitting in one spot you will have a real good chance of them rusting and pitting and your problems will show up next summer . juat learn to repack your own bearings why replace the hubs just so you don.t have to pack them it is a messy job but easy ....

[CALVINIST]

Thanks for all advise.

[paul pachowicz]

one other thing ya might wanna do is put a glob of bearing grease in one palm of your hand and "scrape" the edge of the bearing into the grease til ya see it come out of the bearing housing.

[Phred52]

OR.....you could look at the top thread on this page entitled 'Wheel Bearing Repacking 101'. Very accurate and detailed. Phred52

[Jeremy airjer W]

Don't waste your money on the bearing buddies!

Repack the bearings in the fall right before you decide to store the boat. Then your ready to go for the next year.

If the races happen to be stuck to the spindle you can try cutting through the race with a hacksaw at a diagonal. Once your cut all the way through but not into the spindle, you can use a chisel to split the race the rest of the way. If it comes off you may be able to salvage the axle. Clean it up with some emery cloth and it will probably be o.k. If it doesn't come off then your looking at replacing the axle!

[CALVINIST]

One other question, how do I know what size bearings to get?

[Jeremy airjer W]

Measure the width of the axle where the inner race of the bearings ride. Common sizes are 1" & 1 1/4" some smaller trailers have 3/4". The seal is the measurement of the axle that the lip of the seal rides on. Usually slightly bigger that the inside bearing.

[CALVINIST]

I would suggest just replacing both hubs with new pre-greased ones. Pretty darn easy and can do it for under a $100 bucks.

It’s easy, just jack up trailer, remove tire/wheel. Remove spindle nut and hub. Replace hub with new one, tighten spindle nut to seat everything, back nut off ¼ turn or where cotter pin hole lines up. Insert cotter pin. Remount tire/wheel.

Done.

dtro,

I'm considering replacing the hubs. How do I make sure I get the right size?

[DTro]

They should be marked some where on the hub. The best place to buy them (IMO) is Northern Tool.

If you can't find the size, just bring the hub in and I bet they can help you there.

[EBass]

I had this happen to me last year or the year before. I needed a whole new axel as the bearings ate into the axel. The rear seal went out and grease went everywhere. I keep spare bearings and seals in my truck so I did a quick fix just to get it home (new bearings and seal) but the damage was done. Crystal Welding hooked me up and got me a whole new axel, bearings, hubs, etc.. everything for just over $100 and they put it all together. Not too shabby. They are in Osseo/Rogers border.

I brought in the axel and from there they knew the sizes.

Good luck!

[JeffB]

The hubs are probably fine. I would pull the hub off drop the bearings out. Use a hammer and punch to knock the races out. Put every thing in a 5 gal bucket with a little gas to clean it up. Then wrap it up in a couple paper towels and take it to the store to get what you need, or measure them.

[CALVINIST]

Thanks again

[CALVINIST]

I tried to smack the rear bearings out, very forcefully I might add, but they won't budge. Any thoughts? Thinking the hub will have to be replaced after all.

Important question. Are the bolt hole patterns universal on hubs? Last thing I want to do is dink around with is trying to find hubs that just happen to match the bolt pattern on my tire

[DTro]

Did you pull the hub off? Are there any numbers on the hub?

Measuring Trailer Hub Bolt Patterns

1.

Step 1

Count the number of lug bolts on one wheel. Trailer hubs typically have 4 or 5 bolts per wheel, but heavy-duty or homemade trailers may have 6 or even 8 bolts per wheel.

2.

Step 2

If the trailer hubs have an even number of bolts holding the wheel, measure from the center of one bolt to the center of the bolt directly opposite using a tape measure or calipers. If the bearing cover in the center of the wheel is in the way, you can remove the wheel and measure the distance between the centers of the opposite mounting holes on the wheel itself. The hub bolt pattern will be determined by the number of bolts and the distance between the opposing hub bolt (or wheel hole) centers.

3.

Step 3

If the hubs have 5 bolts, the process is slightly more complex. Choose any bolt to begin, and measure the distance to the center of a bolt on the opposite side, being sure to skip one bolt going in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Multiply your measurement by 1.0515, and the resulting number will give you the diameter of the bolt circle.

[JeffB]

When trying to knock the races out you need the hub on a very solid surface if you don't have a anvil you must put the hub on concrete or something. A work bench has to much give. Use a good solid punch and a nice heavy hammer.

[Tom7227]

I tried to smack the rear bearings out, very forcefully I might add, but they won't budge. Any thoughts? Thinking the hub will have to be replaced after all.

You need a bigger hammer. The rear bearings are only held in by the grease seal. If it hasn't popped yet see if you can put a larger socket on the end of a half inch extension and slip it through from the opposite side. Make sure the socket is big enough to rest on the inner bearing at all points and then hammer away. If the bearing is too much for you to get out you can forget trying to remove and replace the races - they're a lot more tricky than the bearings.

Sounds to me like you've nearly talked yourself into new hubs. Weekend is coming fast and you're going to want to get on the road. Bite the bullet, drop the bucks and forget busting your knuckles.

[Dave]

If using a punch, and you're gun-shy about smashing your fingers, use a pliers to hold the punch. I swing a hammer A LOT harder when my fingers are safe.

[JeffB]

Just one thought on getting the bearing out. Are you trying to push it out the wrong direction? One bearing and race come out one side. The seal, and the other bearing and race out the other.

[upnorth]

The bearing races are pressing in and you will need to put the side you want get the races out of down on a solid surface and use a chisel, punch or something of that nature and do some serious pounding to get the race out. It should come out the side your bearings would go in.

[DTro]

Sounds to me like you've nearly talked yourself into new hubs. Weekend is coming fast and you're going to want to get on the road. Bite the bullet, drop the bucks and forget busting your knuckles.

That was kind of my original point. $60 is well worth my time and energy. Well actually it’s even less because you still have to buy the bearings, grease, seals etc, so maybe closer to $40.

Not to mention having to repack the new bearings.

[Shack]

Removal of races/bearings for me:

Angle grinder and with a thin disk or die grinder with disk, air hammer/chisel with punches needed, and maybe a little heat (O/A or map) if needed. Have had good luck torching off/out frozen races/bearing collars, but that in another story .

Installation of races/bearings for me:

Emery cloth for the OD (race or collar) and a mild stone and die grinder for ID (most time to to smooth a cut down). Installation ring or cone, but most time a brass punch is good and a necessity for seating races back in hub or on. On a trailer if you need anything more than a brass punch to seat the race, either it is the wrong sized race or a little more clean up of the ID or the hub is needed.