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About Phred52

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    Where ever I is.
  1. Phred52


    Does anyone know if the "Oilman" is still a member??
  2. After 21 years of processing and packaging a VERY well known companies product, I will tell you that the only difference between white and colored processed cheese is 2 additives. One additive is `Annetto` and the second is `Paprika Extract`. Both look like a thick Iodine in basic form, and at the amounts added per pound of white cheese, well, the difference in taste is negligible. White cheese and yellow cheese in a side by side comparison, the subjects could NOT taste a difference. If they `guessed` right a couple times, they were proven later to be doing exactly that, guessing.
  3. I have to agree with `gunner55`. Boiled Blood sausage( ring style and cold) was forced to stay at the table until I ate it. I couldn`t even wear socks the same shade of that grey without gagging! That was 52 or 53 years ago and I`m fighting the gag reflex thinking of it now.
  4. Jigginjim and da_chise, for the 30-06, there is another alternative. The military has an insert that allows the use of .308 rounds in a 30-06. I've recently moved and everythings in a disarray, but I'll try to locate the one I have. It is inserted into the chamber of the '06 on the front of a .308 round, then fireformed and held in place by friction. It's NOT recommended for use in a semi-auto just bolt actions, and I'd suppose singles (If anyone has one of those). When not needed, a removal tool is supplied with the insert and you're back to the '06. Phred52
  5. Go with the Amsoil! If you use the Dinosauer oil you'll start the engine off spitting out the black goo that'll stain your house walls. Check your warranty first though! If it REQUIRES that you break it in with Jiffy oil, then do so. After break in is done, switch to Amsoil. 80:1 the first gallon, then 100:1 after that. I broke in my Shark on Amsoil @ 100:1, now 6 years ago. It starts and runs today as well as the first day. Prime and pull and it's running. Prior to the shark, I had a 22 year old 8" Strikemaster that I had fed Amsoil for about the last 12 years, as far as I know, it's still running fine! Phred52
  6. coombia21, It'll work well as long as you either block the trailer on the ice OR have sleeves that will move as you move around in the house. If not, the holes will be freezing over and that'll just pee you off. Personally, the 2 houses I'm familiar with BOTH preferred to block the frame. That was a very stable platform and the sleeves could be packed with ice/snow and sealed. It's a little high off the ice but does work okay. If this is a manufactured trailer, you might want to consider insulating the floor with some 1 1/2 or 2" rigid insulation also. It'll pay for itself in the end. Phred52
  7. Gatorbait,Check backwoodsbound dot com. on the home page select 'recipes' on the recipe page select 'duck'. There's about 40 or so. Phred52
  8. russ, just use the clamps in the box to secure the wire.
  9. bloc004, I had the same problem with mine...In MY experience, It happened to be a Lennox unit and the tray that catches the water under the 'A'-coil (inside the furnace) rusted through. DO get it replaced SOON as the water is now dripping on your heat exchanger and that will rust quickly! I got on it quickly otherwise it would've been a new furnace AND air conditioner all at once. Phred52
  10. Phred52

    Used props

    You could call Tim's Outboard Motor Service in Hackensack. He may have a used 1 or 2 laying around. Phred52
  11. Like bak2MN said, they're not aligned. Talk to a local tire shop or 2, and see if they'll take on the task of aligning your wheels. It might cost you up front, but you can see what it's already costing you a year in tires! They should be able to get your wheels aligned reasonably well, enough that you should get a couple seasons on the tires. Phred52
  12. Phred52

    Leaky boat

    pulleye16, I'd suggest you first put the boat in the water and get a general idea where the leak is located. You'll be able to tell by the areas that get wet first. You may even be able to isolate which rivet(s) are the culprits. Mark the areas and get the boat dry again (at least the outside) put it on the trailer with the drain plug in place and run water into it from the hose. You don't need to bother filling it above the water line, doubtful your leak is that high. Use a car creeper and roll around underneath looking for drops of water. If done over a dry concrete floor or sheets of cardboard that helps too. When you find some leaks, have a buddy reach into the boat with a 'body dolly', and you underneath, rap the rivet to re-seat it. Dry it off and watch to see if it drips, if it does, rap it again. ALWAYS use the dolly backer! You don't need some kit and a big wad of goo hanging on the outside of your boat to make it stop leaking. For the safety of both you and the boat, don't get into the boat with water in it, while it's on the trailer. Phred52
  13. I take mine to one of the local resturants and ask to dump it into their collection barrel. They're Happy to take it, they resell it to the bio-diesel guys. We have a couple of converted 'bio mercedes' round town. They smell like a french fries stand at the county fair! Phred52
  14. U-joint was 1st thing that sprang to mind for me too. Crawl underneath, grip the driveshaft near the u-joint and 'push, pull and twist' If you get any movement, it's a u-joint that's bad. Be sure to check both front and rear driveshafts if it's a 4x4. Phred52
  15. I do the same as dfv87. I set up my Clam 5600 next to the wheel house, put in my small sunflower heater and a 5 gallon bucket with a removable seat. Line the bucket with used grocery store plastic bags (ideally, the ones without holes in them). Policy is: If you use it, change the bag for the next person. Bags get frozen and disposed of at home. Works well, everyone's happy (not to mention empty) and there's no litter. Phred52
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